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this change over was done for a couple reasons. quicker stopping power and easier pedal effort, this was done so my father who is disabled could enjoy the car too without as much effort to push the brake

yupp it will fit, but you've now opened the can of worms from the people who believe it will understeer because there "different"

if you have a 1980 dodge nobody bothers with backyard rebuilding anymore, there under $60 each for calipers and a normally stocked item if you drained the master cylinder and pumped the pedal you will have fun now, the master will need to be "bench bled" (done on vehicle) then the proportioning...

with the timing you may need an adjustable light to be able to see where your sitting at idle, could be that its flashing around 16+ which is hard for a normal light to pick up on

he meations a different cam in his first post; I'm assuming its something quite radical with no idle quality's, if not he has a very bad engine vaccum leak or something

10"/hg of vacuum is way to low to operate the booster properly, I think 14 is the lowest and you can still get a hard pedal after 3 or so pumps factory engines run 16+ "/Hg, you have a few options, add a vacuum pump to allow your brakes to work properly, change the cam; or remove the power...

scarebird brakes is the cheapest easiest route to disc brakes, works with 9" or 10" drum spindles and uses all over the counter parts (except caliper adapters)

that is correct, bench bleeding is much easier on the car with the leverage of the brake pedal, and since its already mounted just unbolt the brake lines and install the bleeding plugs

X2, there was a similar problem not long ago on the board where a member didn't realize you couldn't bleed brakes if the bleeder wasn't at the top

did you mount the calipers on the correct side? (bleeder at top?) did you bench bleed master cylinder? are you bleeding starting at Pass. side front and working your way around to drivers front?

what 67dart is saying is completely correct, most times you will get nowhere with vacuum bleeding brakes, they need to be pressure bleed, either from pressure bleeding system or by old method with 2 people

sounds like fluid is bypassing in the system, are you using a factory proportion valve along with the wilwood one? the factory ones require you to not allow the pedal past 1/2 way when bleeding, pressure bleeding is always the best way as air can get trapped in the lines on bends or parts that...

DOT 4 is synthetic, made to replace DOT 3 which is a semi-processed petroleum product. Both DOT 3 & DOT 4 are mixable and compatible. DOT 5 is not mixable with any other brake fluid

gravity bleeding sucks at best, its okay if your the only one around and you need the brakes to work in a pinch but it always seems to give you a mushy brake pedal pressure bleeding only takes a minute, anyone can help; from your wife to kids (as long as they listen)

like posted above the shoes need to be adjusted so there is slight drag between the drum and the shoe, also at any point did the master cylinder go dry? it may have to be bled separately from the system also you did all that work on the brake system and didn't upgrade to the much safer dual...

the early dakota's used a brake pressure style ABS for the rear wheels, the more the brake was pressed the more the rear lifted pulling on a valve and cutting off fluid to the rear wheels gradually

no sense messing around trying to get a bolt out on a wheel cylinder your not using; and if your rebuilding it your own your crazy, you can buy them cheaper like others said; bolt threads into wheel cylinder so take grinder or die grinder and knock the head off and replace all the wheel...

your proportioning valve needs to be re centered, it has the rear wheels locked out you can do this by bleeding the front brakes, then move to the rear

I've heard that sound a couple times, first time was the shoe hold down clip broke second time took abit of figuring out, but wasen't the brakes at all, it was a full disc hubcap moving on the wheel

vise grip the flex line if the line at the master won't turn. if you have a dual line master cylinder take the front line off (front runs rear) and put a small headed nail in and bolt it back tight enough so it won't leak I've done this before to get cars home I've bought; of course I fix...

if you plan on being in the rain it will sure help with that

scarebird, cheap and can go with any bolt pattern, parts are over the counter anywhere and did I meation cheap lol

if your looking to change to 5x4.5 your and use scarebird kit your going to have to change the hub, spindle; lower ball joint and I think upper; your in for quite abit of work

can't be 4.25, its either 4.5 or 4.0 bolt pattern, looks like factory; or at the least a swap using factory parts

that appears to be the new polyemer coated line they make which is steel with high copper content, make sure that it is though be cause if its nylon it needs to be replaced before you even move it but I doubt it is nylon because you can't flare it, and they did use the correct fittings...

if your brake line doesn't fit the new wheel cylinder they must have gave you the wrong one...?? don't rebuild wheel cylinders there only $20 each and a kit isn't worth much less, if your time is worth anything you can't build one for $5 difference

there isn't much there really, the adjuster, emergeny brake bar and shoe spreader bar, everything else comes with a spring kit

just a quick thought, if the rear brakes lock before the front, are you sure that the lines aren't installed backwards on the master cylinder? the rear reservoir should feed the front brakes and front reservoir feed the rear

no, most of the time you won't get any pedal, the master cylinder must be bleed, as for bench bleeding it I prefer to do it on the car, with the supplied plugs and the intructions followed to "T" you won't have any success until you do this

complete and utter BS, comes from a tech archive where people guess whats going to happen and have no understanding if it will or won't work