Removed the Power Brakes and swapped to Manual Brakes. Got Questions!

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straightlinespeed

Sometimes I pretend to be normal
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Ok so like the title says I swapped over to manual brakes on my 71 Scamp. I have disc fronts, drum rears. I kept the stock proportioning valve.

First off, I swapped to a 15/16" bore master cylinder from a 75 Dart, with manual brakes, which is brand new.

Second, my brake light stays on the dash. No matter how much I bleed them.

Third, the pedal just dont feel right. Say Im driving about 60 and let off the gas and slowly push on the pedal I can feel the brakes slightly engage, but then the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor. It will then hit a super hard spot near the floor and I have to almost stand on the brakes for the car to stop.

What is going on with these brakes?
 
Did you bench bleed the new MC?

Well that was a issue between me and my brother.

I said we had to bench bleed it and he argued that we should just put it in and then bleed the brakes, it works either way.

So on that note, no I did not bench bleed the MC. Does the air not come out of it bleeding it normally?
 
Well that was a issue between me and my brother.

I said we had to bench bleed it and he argued that we should just put it in and then bleed the brakes, it works either way.

So on that note, no I did not bench bleed the MC. Does the air not come out of it bleeding it normally?


no, most of the time you won't get any pedal, the master cylinder must be bleed, as for bench bleeding it I prefer to do it on the car, with the supplied plugs and the intructions followed to "T" you won't have any success until you do this
 
Damn it! Ok, since everything got tossed this past winter, and I no longer have the plugs. What is the best way and proper way to do this now?

Really sucks since I no longer have a lift to work on the car and have to lay on the floor. LOL
 
The way I do it in the car is I undo the brake lines at the MC, and screw in extra fittings with a short length of tube. Ideally, the tubes would curve up and then down into the reservoirs exactly, but what I have actually used is rubber hose held into position with baling wire. So the fluid just circulates when you pump the pedal, and you pump until no more bubbles come out of the tubes.
 
The way I do it in the car is I undo the brake lines at the MC, and screw in extra fittings with a short length of tube. Ideally, the tubes would curve up and then down into the reservoirs exactly, but what I have actually used is rubber hose held into position with baling wire. So the fluid just circulates when you pump the pedal, and you pump until no more bubbles come out of the tubes.

Good idea! Thank you!
 
Or you could just buy a kit and power bleed the system.
 
Never had any luck with the one you've shown me. I tried using it 3 different time and it failed everytime.
 
I had a problem getting a pedal, and it turned out that the 76up calipers have a larger piston, and the 15/16 MC didn't move enough volume so I went with a 1 1/16 and got my pedal back.
 
I had a problem getting a pedal, and it turned out that the 76up calipers have a larger piston, and the 15/16 MC didn't move enough volume so I went with a 1 1/16 and got my pedal back.

Well that there is a good question also. I know my Scamp was swapped to 73 up discs for the large bolt pattern wheels before I bought it. I just dont know what year they are. It does look like the caliper has a large piston. Is there anyway to determine what year calipers I have in the car?

Also what if I switch to a aluminum Dakota MC, well I think thats what your running? Like some of you use on your cars.
 
If you measure the piston you can figure out which you have. I believe it went 73-75 (smaller size) 76+ (larger size). A 77 b body would have the larger piston.
 
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