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I almost ALWAYS test stuff under load if possible. That is what WILL show up bad connections/ terminals/ connectors and switches. Using an ohmeter will lead you down the wrong road. I already gave you a pretty good list of what you are up against, but I don't know, in your car, what...

I think you should get the mods to merge these posts with your original thread https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dash-light-issues.553309/#post-1974530384 Things get too complicated and hard to follow

What exactly have you done so far? What lamps have you found on this circuit?

It is difficult to test these out of the circuit, because an ohmeter is simply not accurate enough. They really need to be tested under load It IS important to understand how they work The switch is actually SEVERAL switches in one box, and there are TWO power supplies...

You'd better check with your state and figure out how to make it look real. Tampering with VINs is a big time nono except in special circumstances.

Black for sure, personal choice. I don't care for white gauges

The only lights in the cluster "that dangle" are the brake warning lamp and oil warning lamp. Anything else are bayonet sockets with no wires, and they make contact on the PC board. Shine a light up under the dash and see if you can see the oil/ brake lamp light up which would mean...

And last do not just guess. TEST. Make CERTAIN you are actually getting proper full battery V to the cluster AND THAT IT's grounded, and THEN round up some resistors so you can check the gauge accuracy

The speedo is driven by a magnetic coupling, and is subject to wear, to whatever gummed up lube is in there. Speedo might even be affected by loss of magnetism. The odo is gear drive connected to the cable. It can be incorrect because of the gearing, but it cannot slip like the...

Marvelous!!

Measure the depth. There is no reason to assume the exposed shell is abnormal. It is a coax fitting "of sorts." --So the shell area is grounded..... as long as both the male prong and shell is making contact, I'd say you are good.

Headrests were federally mandatory in 68 I think

...........And further, you need one, because, on cars with a column mount shift quadrant, for the lamp, and also for the horn button. I don't remember for sure on the "key in" lamp

Generally, "don't." In a severe crash, the harness forces will have to be downards, as that's where it will have to be anchored, and will collapse YOU along with the seat

Nice but I don't understand completely. Can you add some narrative to your photo series?

No ideas. Make certain you didn't forget a screw, but doubt that. Might be part of the harness snagging the upper edge. You should, after lowering the column, be able to fold the cluster out and down sort of like opening a glove box, then lifting it up and out as the speedo kinda...

There IS NO free service manual for 74. The 73 is quite different, so far as wiring. I have a digital copy, but doubt you want to mail a USB quick clear around the world?

When I was young and skinny, I could, "with difficulty" get an IVR out by reaching up under. BUT I WOULD NOT DO so in this case, because, "smoke." You may have fried something on the board or worse. I'd pull the cluster. Disconnect battery!!!! Remove the bolts for the column...

There is a long slender digital cluster you can buy that you mount yourself. Alt least one member here has modded a Dart cluster so they fit inside the old bezel

Since the whole dash interchanges from 67 on, why not just look and find a ralley frame?

My 74 Scamp has them. Great big retractor mounted down on the sill right behind the door. Goes up to some sort of loop, you just pull 'er down and buckle.

73 "I believe" should have the one piece belts IE you string it over you and buckle just one latch

That's good work but after you welded those nuts they weren't "grade 8" anymore. You could have just drilled and tapped the metal tab.

Steve "just me" but I would darn sure reverse the clips along the windshield and install the screws from below. Then you can get it out with the windshield in. You may or may not need shorter screws. I wish you better luck on leaks than on my Scamp. I still don't know what is...

They can be called different names for Chrysler, Dodge, or Plymouth. A very quick Google shoes "Gold" for Dodge and "Gold Leaf" for Plymouth Here: Mopar Color Names and https://www.e-bodies.org/Resources/Data_Salesman_Color_Upholstery/1971_Plymouth_Salesman_Color_Trim_Selector.pdf

This here may or may not have some info The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Home Page Here? The 1970 Hamtramck Registry - 1971 Plymouth Color & Trim Book - Barracuda

Very good!!

This problem is right out of 1966. I don't remember, "Grant?" steering wheels in the mid 60's and 70's? Many of my friends and I had them and the horn button kits DID NOT WORK WELL on most of them. Part of the problem may have been that the horn "switch" was trying to close...

X2 And here the other day you claimed that you never claimed to be an electrical expert!!!.

No do NOT just unplug the horns. Pull the horn relay. The horn relay will be powered and will run the battery down, plus it might just burn up the horn relay