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To add to above, in no particular order 1....Master piston may be too small relative to calipers/ rear cylinders 2....Rear shoes may be out of adjustment 3....Air in system 4....On a side note, be sure the differential switch piston is not locked/ stuck/ shifted because not enough pressure...

The thing is now you've explained, and I had no idea what that kit was UNTIL you explained. The photos, tho, are so small I cannot see a thing. But anyway all I can tell you is I'm using what seems to be the very same setup except mine was no kit. It was spindles and...

NO idea what you are doing. NONE. So let's start with the basics WHAT make model year car? WHAT sway bar? and what year? And do / did your lower control arms have the tabs, or what And WHAT is this brake kit? AKA is it a remake of the popular 73 and later factory style brakes...

One big "gotcha" that comes up regularly is a situation of pushrod and whatever master the owner has chosen---does not allow the master piston to fully return. This is VERY important, as the piston MUST uncover the ports drilled in the bottom of the reservoir. The line pressure...

AND NOW YET ANOTHER annoying story from the old days. Sometime in the '80's, working at the big parts store in town, somehow, a customer talked me into looking at his old pre-69 Dodge PU. Seems like this was a 3/4T but dont remember. Something about a bad wheel bearing. So he ferried...

Then I would start by carefully looking over wheel bearings. I did not "get" that clearly in your post.

"What I'd check." I'm still on the ridge. I hope you have the shoe cores but if not, do research and make CERTAIN the shoes are correct width. The lining, even if "spec" to correct width, is likely "sharp cornered so a bit, just a bit, wider than the old. The RIDGES in the drum...

I too am confused. He is talking specifically about 73--which is the factory single piston brakes. IS the track width wider with those factory disc brakes than with the lower option factory 73 drums?

I've arced a few shoes, and turned thousands of rotors and drums

Here's how the wire to the brake prop works. That is part of the differential pressure piston in case one end of the system springs a leak,the difference in pressure will push the piston to one end, and that actuates the switch to ground. That will light the "BRAKE" lamp on the dash...

It might be that you have an off model and it may be the 1974 seat belt interlock. To find out, pull the connector and see if the the key will operate the starter. If that happens, you need to bypass it. Should have two yellowish wires, which you need to jumper together. They are the...

Tight is subjective. They all drag some. You likely have a stuck piston, perhaps from gum/ rust etc in the caliper. You should be able to work a big screwdriver in there and work it in a few different places between the caliper and pad backing, just to crack it loose a bit.

Don't forget you can also simply add an aftermarket and or adjustable valve in series with the rear tube

You don't need to remove it. Get a nail or other item, sewing needle, etc, about the largest one you can get into the center hole, and simply puncture the rubber

We have and EXCELLENT "Motion" store here. Took me a long time to realize, that they are "not" Oh Reallys

Make CERTAIN your master is properly returning and relieving at the ports (bottom of the reservoir)

It may also be that the cylinders are gummed up internally and not returning fully

The issue I can see with helicoil, etc, is you might bore/ enlarge the pilot area, (for the bolt snout) which you don't want. The tap for the coil has to go "so deep."

^^THIS I was going to suggest looking up a few in the service manuals. There has been changes between body lines and years. Run over to MyMopar.com and download a few service manuals, free. There are diagrams for at least part of them in there

Are they the old small bolt pattern?

To add to this, and you can do this if replacing the pads, get some method lined up to first suck some fluid out of the master, so that there is room for the fluid. I actually bought a couple of big old medical syringes off ebay BUT THEY ARE GLASS. You can use them with about...

First, that likely DID NOT HAVE disk brakes, and most certainly not 4 wheel disk. So for starters ARE YOU CERTAIN that it has disk at all (front) and that the rear are also ?? If so, next, make certain the bleeder screws are at the top of the calipers. It is common to reverse the...

My 74 Valiant, which is a long story, always "starts out" with a great pedal, but as you drive it, the thing gets more and more mushy. It needs a master

OP how does the pedal feel? It should be rock hard almost. If not you have air in the system. Otherwise I'd look into bleeding the brakes For those claiming you "must" have a disc brake master, I have 4 wheel disc. My pedal, always one stroke, goes down just less than half way and...

Parts stores sell a little bleeder kit. It has multiple plastic fittings and hoses. They do work although they may seep and leak some. Put lots of rags etc under Random example from Autozone, not necessarily recommendation...

We are talking about special as opposed to the standardized fittings that are normally on a "say" 3/16 OD tube as in the chart I posted. any thread other than those is not "standard." There is only one standard thread size for 3/16 tube and that is 3/8-24 On some masters (I think...

Yeh, but some tubes, like at the master, have special nuts, AKA 3/16 tube but larger than normal thread

If you can't figure it, find a real parts store and if they do not have nuts loose, or adapters for inverted flare, "get into" the universal replacement brake tube. Make certain you have inverted flare and not "bubble," and U.S. and not metric. Find what fits, likely either 1/4 or...

None of the rest of the system should have anything to do with the master returning. I would say this is all right in the area of the linkage, binding, etc, the master, sticking or other defect, or something wrong in the booster. Not sure I'm about to explain this well, but there is no...

No, he's saying what you have is not what you have been told. He is saying that what you have is all A body, just exactly like you would want for a bolt in. Re-real what I told you. Not sure what you have for an upper CA, you may or may not need to change that depending on the drum...