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Soft solder is not what you want on a vibration prone fuel fitting.

It was just a suggestion and another option. "What exactly?" Nothing exactly. There are lots of things you can use for fittings, JIC etc steel, various brass, or copper or steel tubing. Frankly, I would find it a lot easier to punch a 3/8 hole and braze in a piece of tube than...

I would silver braze it right into the tank. Start with a small sharp sheet metal awl to form the start of a hole, and enlarge it with a larger one, until the fitting/ tube you are using will barely fit, then braze it in place. Do NOT go small. I went to small because at the time I was...

You have just started a VERY long argument LOL. Whether you are happy with any EFI is going to be how it is installed and whether you have an grounding/ ground loop/ RFI/EMI problems, etc etc and whether you can program it. It might be "self learning" for the fuel map but that is...

Either you are wrong or did not word this well. The system as pictured differs only in one way from some of the cars I've owned--My 69 383 RR for example, had the hose from the air filter bonnet to the breather, was on the DIRTY side of the filter. I don't even remember anymore, if...

If course it will, the breather and hose to the filter is OPEN

I don't know. What does "MW" stand for?

So, how did you find the problem? I admit that would probably throw me off

Just make sure that fitting is AIR tight and FUEL tight

CHRIST here we go AGAIN. The 69/ pre evap systems worked just fine AND DID NOT SMELL in the garage any worse than your uber green "carbon(sh*t) can"

So far as the early 4 port with vapor separator, I do not believe you can use those ports WITHOUT a vapor separator. They are below fuel level, with fuel up in the filler at all. That means there is no way to break the siphon. Also you hear guys suggest using a vented cap. I am...

It breaks a siphon. ON a hot day, with the tank really full, the fuel can back clear up into the fill tube, especially parked on a hill AKA Seattle/ San Fran, and siphon out the vent onto the ground. With the "U" as soon as the fuel gets low enough it will pull air and stop. The fuel...

Part of the problem seems to be the overly high pressure used by some stations. I buy at two stations here on the same street, but one day I was closer to one on the other side of the highway. CHRIST that thing was so high there was NO WAY it was going to work One of the attendants...

Have you looked in the service manual? That is where I'd start. MyMopar.com, they are free

If you can afford it and can get a correct tank, I would but a replacement. I once had a 62 Landcruiser, and ran about three filters inline. Rust STILL got through and regularly argued with the carburetor I cleaned that thing at least twice, I've forgotten if 3 or 4

Maybe you have a restriction/ stuck float, etc

I would say losing that pressure in about a minute could be considered normal. Some pumps leak, some have actually tiny bypasses in the valves. Otherwise the line , hot, between the pump and the carb will heat and raise pressure, and force fuel past the needle and seat

AND NOW YET ANOTHER annoying story from the old days. In my days at NAS Miramar, 70-74, I held a part time job at the base auto hobby shop. A then friend had swapped a 396 into a 57 Chev. I had helped him assemble the engine, install the cam, and adjust the lifters. I KNEW that engine...

Possible the check valves in the pump have dirt in them. I would try hand priming the carb, depending on carb. If it has an accessible vent, use a syringe/ bulb, etc to squirt some fuel into the vent. You can fill the bowl, and engine should run, probably on just one fill, long enough...

Uh, doesn't this really depend on the engine build?

Any pump should push through the following pump, or pull through the upstream pump. I ran a REAR mounted NON energized pump on the street for years. ALL pumps have check valves. Whether or not they properly "check" is due to design, quality, dirt and debris, and wear TWO things...

I could swear, and am almost positive, that some of the Ed carbs have/ had/ did have manual chokes Look at this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=703323 I cannot offer specifics, but "back in the day" I made several conversions by just building them, solder...

WHAT YEAR MAKE MODEL is the car. Tank (non) venting can aggravate this. This SEEMS to be a combination of "new style" gasohol which boils and evaps more easily, heat, so, vapor lock and fuel boiling off. There has been numerous "cures." Make sure your line is tight, no leaks...

Send me a PM aka "start a conversation." I have a factory service manual.

THIS. I don't believe there were any valves, etc, just an open breather with extra nipples. Big one to air filter, (for pvc), one went to the carb bowl, I don't remember the other one Go to MyMopar.com and download the 70-71-72 service manuals and read the carb/ fuel sections...

Rebuilts have ALWAYS sucked, particularly carbs. I worked on my own and friends cars since I was 16, and I'm 75 now. I sold parts for about 15 years starting in 74, from 2 different (independent) stores. Brake shoes were normally exchange through Raybestos, etc, so they were not too...

1...Don't worry about the appearance of the filter, fuel wise 2...If you think it is starving for fuel, run it until you think the problem is at hand, than go back and with your ear near the tank, or if you are deaf like me, hold a hose to your ear, and twist the cap loose. If you hear...

ONE THING you must be careful of with vapor return is ORIENTATION. EG the hemi/ sixpack OEM return devices were NOT filters and had a standpipe inside the can. This means they were oriented with the 1/4" return fitting DOWN. The Wix and other equivalent filters are the opposite, at...

You say you cannot find 3rd line filters. You need to find a parts man who can read catalogs. I've always used wix, but once you find their number, you can interchange that to other brands as well. They are made with inline fittings, as well as the return line off at a 90. I thing...

Because that is not originally what you said, and it fuzzies up the conversation. Further, the printed specs are not always what you want, depending on the engine build and intended purpose. "Move the HP band." There are guys way more expert on just where to set a particular cam than...