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Actually, this is not true.

Maybe? It was the early poly starter change? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=64294

I just saw that recently. Incredible

Friend of mine WOULD have bought an engine deleted Jeep if he could have, bought a brand new 74? 75? Jeep CJ and eventually swapped in about a 450hp 350, Ford top loader, Ford 9 rear and 44 front. It's a good thing HE DID NOT however, as.......... He had one HELL of a time with...

Downloaded and will watch later, thanks!!

1.........ECU is wrong in at least two ways. A--ballast wiring wrong. B....Connector is drawn poorly and impossible to tell if wiring to ECU is correctly represented (Keep in mind that ballast wiring is exactly the same for either breaker points or ECU) Here is fair representation of...

That is automotive. I would not bet on marine necessarily being the same.

That was my point. I've concluded that some of them were reverse simply because a left over reverse engine was sitting on the floor.

And now, yet another annoying story from the old days From about 80-87 I worked for a huge parts store/ heavy hardware/ logging/ rigging/ hydraulics/ welding/ and later fasteners store here in town. We had a nice guy, he knew the boss and manager, was into real estate and partly retired...

Be aware that the flywheel end is the automotive "rear" and I'd guess the prop is drivin off the front. Also be aware it could be either standard or reverse rotation. I'd first try squirting some oil into the plug holes, cranking it, and running a compression check. If it's been...

This a morphed diagram and DOES NOT show the bypass wire. Wire at top right labeled "existing wire" is your "run" from the key, IGN1 The IGN2 bypass wire goes from the key to the coil + side of the ballast AKA the bottom of the ballast in this photo. Once again, this would be...

First thing you need to do is figure if your ignition switch works like the modern A bodies. This is part of the key to the whole thing, as GM and Ford both used a resistor bypass circuit using the (Ford) fender mount solenoid, or (GM) the starter mount solenoid. Chrysler did this...

I've often wondered if you could mod a non rear pump transmission with an external "boost" electric pump for push starting. Even then, I doubt the starter would generate enough RPM to drive through the converter.

There is always the DIY "thing.............." http://u225.torque.net/cars/SL6/articles/Parallel_2bbl.pdf https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/2-barrel-intake.180962/

Go over to MyMopar.com and download a free factory service manual There's a procedure in there for checking the pump. You need a cheap pressure/ vacuum gauge from the parts store. Possibilities in no particular order: Tank pickup sock is gummed up, or the pickup tube otherwise plugging...

I can't help you but do you have a build thread, etc, showing some photos of this project?

You can set them cold but you'll have to set them hot, first, to get a baseline EOIC Which means as the EXHAUST is starting to OPEN, adjust that intake, and as the INTAKE has opened fully and is nearly CLOSED, adjust that exhaust Adjust them carefully, engine stopped, as above, HOT...

Older SB Chevs. A then friend of mine had a 57 Chev and it would regularly come off. Why it did not eat the radiator is beyond me. Of course we were too young and stupid to actually fix it somehow.

Actually the FACTORY crank to cam centerline could be "loose." I'm told you can buy ??undersize?? chain sets whatever they are called.

Well, and specially if they were "race" use they might just be impossible to hook up to anything for an exhaust system.

For one thing, go look up and get on the Holley forum. Doug, I forget his last name, does or did work for Holley and is very very knowledgeable and helpful https://forums.holley.com/

I don't see why not, if you can overcome the mechanical problems, IE kickdown if automatic, mounting, sealing, etc. You don't have to worry too much about oversizing as you do with a carb as there are no venturies or vacuum signal to worry about, so long as the unit has...

AND NOW, yet another annoying story from the old days. My first Mopar, around 1971 ish, was a 69 RR 4 speed, 383. At some point I had installed a "pizza pie" air filter. I cannot find a photo. These were sorta like a filter bottom plate, shaped like a very flat velocity stack, and...

How did you do this and crank it with the key? I bet you did not. Again. Using the key to crank, and jumpering the start relay is DIFFERENT. The run and start circuits of the key are two different electrical conditions.

Check the timing. You can check timing "on the starter." Also HOW DID (exactly) you check the spark? EG: If you jumper the start relay under the hood to check spark, THAT DOES NOT give you a clear picture, because the ignition switch circuit CHANGES from run to start. You need to...

While it is off I would take a REALLY REALLY close look at the manifold ports, any carb ports AND THE GASKET setup as well as anything projecting below the carb, that can "****" the carb on the mount and prevent sealing. Remove the gasket/ any spacer and place them/ it first on the...

LOL ya know Rob, I'd forgotten---some years back I FOUND a "half" of a KD style wrench--that was 7/16 !!! (Garage sale for cheap.)

If you MUST have a dist wrench, find one of the old KD tools 2 piece ones. They are 9/16 on one end, 1/2 on the other, with a double 3/8 female square drive coupler in the middle. So you can snap it apart, rotate the two halves for clearance, and use the opposite end as a handle, or take...

I don't think you even need to bend them, but back in the 70's before Al invented the internet, I've bent several wrenches, for special purposes, with nothing more than a vise and a LP Berns-o-matic torch

Me as well. As long as the commutator is not torn up and the brushes worn out, take it apart, make certain dust/ debri/ rust is not causing the armature to drag the field, blow it out good with air, grease up the bushings, clean up the commutator with some sandpaper and put it back...