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when it was sold as a kit to fit the aluminum "mopar" style master.

If the new m/c cup is the same depth (as OE) the plate will make the pedal lower. Your better off getting the adjustable pushrod to compensate for any depth issues.

Same for me,a little die grinder and carbide bit work,a few minutes and done, Don't forget the center register adapter.

Sounds like it'll work for you,Good luck

Yeah if your using stock axles ,with only green bearings,the difference between drum and rotor thickness is the only difference. They work great , but I have them all around with an adjustable prop valve and late model manual master. I had a big brake kit but it wouldn't fit inside my rear b.s...

I did the low pros with e-brake. Page 5 of the instructions. Remove the snap ring and install the backing plate, reinstall the snap ring. The bearing goes in the axle tube and the retainer holds the backing plate against the snap ring.

after I bought my housing 2" narrowed I sent it to moser to have axles made to fit with bearings and 3" press in studs. They sold me the rear brake kit as a package. First the rotors don't seat over the press in stud bases(?). I had to open the lug holes on the rotors so they would seat on the...

I had the same issue with my Moser axles, No biggie, trim away till the snap ring sits against the housing

just saw the second set of pics, the retainer presses against the backing plate which presses against the snap ring, but the snap ring should still be just about flush with the axle tube

so right now ,if you take the spacer out and slide the axle in, the snap ring doesn't bottom out? if the axles hit before the snap ring does, trim the axle ends. with the green bearings ,pre load and axle run out aren't a factor. It's easy with a cut off wheel

You lost me. That factory retainer should be hanging on your wall. The open end retainer should be outside (sandwiching the backing plate)against the snap ring against the axle tube.

I believe that spacer is discarded, remove the snap ring, install the backing plate (ebrake shoe assy),reinstall the snap ring. Picture #1 in the instructions. Just read the directions,page4 highlighted "remove the stock bearing retainers from the axles". The axle is held in with the backing...

Are you sure the bearing is pressed completely on to the shaft? I've installed the same draglite (with ebrake) kit . If the axle is to long the bearing wont seat fully in the housing and you'd know it when assembling the retaining plate. The bearing not being fully pressed or spaced wrong could...

I have wilwoods all around (and an extra rear kit...).I used the three parts listed in the pic and a wildwood adjustable prop valve. the distribution block was recommended by RightStuffDetailing p# PV01

If your asking about mine. mopar F,M,J body 1-1/32" bore. with an adjustable prop. (wilwoods at all corners). I've done it before and it works great

Here's what I used

why didn't you just swap them side to side?most calipers without p-brakes are symmetrical with the exception of the hose locating boss which can easily be removed if needed.

I had this problem on an explorer that a customer did his own brakes on.he brought it in with the same complaint,Turns out he did his own calipers and mounted them on the wrong sides ,putting the bleeder below the brake hose.this was an '03 with a drum p brake.I don't know what setup you used though