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yep, it is a good idea to replace the pinion bearings while out if you don't know when they were last changed. (Although I have run used ones before as well.) The pinion takes more load and spins faster than the carrier bearings. If running 3.55 gears, the pinion spins 3.55 times for each one...

you are not disturbing the pinion depth so, you should be fine setting the backlash correct and checking the pattern. I have done a few that way. You may check the pattern before you pull it apart, take some good pics, and compare once you get it all back together.

Rani.... I believe the dipsticks will stick out the same when they are in their proper tubes... so, if you have a SB 904 tube and a SB 727 tube, you should be able to put dipsticks in them and figure it out. It should stick out about 1/2" past the end of the tube.

tubes are different between 904 and 727, I believe BB vs SB will be different as well because of the bolt patterns on the bellhousing (tube mounts to one hole, not a big deal to re-weld the tab though). I am not sure about the actual dipstick though.

I flushed my own..... used a vacuum pump (mighty-mite brake bleeder) to suck everything out.... used gas to get it real clean then followed with trans fluid a couple of times then put it in.

sounds like you got it in correctly.

simple terms..... TF-2 makes it shift firmer which makes it last longer..... when shifting, say from 1st to 2nd, 2nd gear starts to grab as 1st starts to slip..... the overlap causes heat and wears things out. To make it shift nice and smooth, a stock tranny normally has a longer period of...

IF you had a motorhome tranny and needed the output shaft and tail housing, 25$ for that one is not bad.... Or, if you needed a valve body, or some other non-wearing parts from the inside... it would be worth picking up for some of those things (speedo gear and housing, dipstick tube, etc....)

my cuda was doing this, it ended up being the plug that plugs onto the neutral safety switch.... but, it sounds like your bushings may be the place to start!

Thanks for the replies.... I'm heading up to drivelines NW later today to drop my driveshaft off and bringing a used slip yoke home to stick in the tranny and get them a measurement (just using the used one for a measurement, putting a NEW on on my driveshaft)... also, going with the 7290...

yes, already has the bigger one in the rear.... "There is a considerable increase in strength, it even matters if the are cross drilled to make them greasable." thanks, that was really my question I guess. I'll go with the large then!

ok, maybe a stupid question.... I am swapping from a 360/904 to a 440/727 in my 69 Barracuda. the 440 is nothing crazy and I don't at this point plan on building anything real crazy to put in it. My old driveshaft has the larger u-joint in the rear and then tapers down and has a small u-joint...

yes, there are 2 different size u-joints. do you still have your old center section? You may be able to swap yokes if the splines are the same.....

the sure-grip is the carrier, not the housing so, yes, you can take a housing and add a sure-grip to it.

I have an 8 3/4 with 3.23 suregrip in my barracuda and actually like the gears. They go down the freeway ok but are not too high that it is a dog. I wold probably not go with option #3 though.... 1 ton axle, are the rear axles full floating? If so, that is way overkill and way too heavy for your...

I sucked mine out with a brake bleeder kit... (snout up) then put some gas in it and sloshed it around and sucked that out as well... did that 15-20 times till it wasn't dirty anymore then put some atf in it and sloshed that around and sucked it out a couple more times and then put it in the...

your backing plates and brakes should swap across.... As far as howling, if your gears are setup wrong, it will howl, bad bearings somewhere can also make it howl... I wold pull the axles out and spin the pinion and see how smooth it turns. You can pop the carrier out and see how the carrier...

sorry, I don't have anything apart to measure for you..... can you pull yours out and add 3/8" for adjustment?

like leadfoot said, go get a grade 8 bolt at the hardware store... I had one break in my 904 (friday night, about 10 PM like always happens). I grabbed a grade 8 bolt from my bolt bin, and cut it to the proper length, ground a 1/4" square on the one end (so my square socket would fit over it and...

I'd recommend the Transg0 TF-2 shift kit and as was said before, I'd buy the kit locally. I bought a master kit and that shift kit locally for 300$ out the door. (including both bands). shift kit local was 99$, I could have saved 25$ if I bought it from Summit but, I wanted it that day.

I rebuilt my 904 a couple of months ago (for sale now actually, my 360 is coming out and being replaced with a 440). Easy to rebuild, I spent 300 for everything, the rebuild kit, a new rear band (not included in the kit but, I wanted to replace it anyway) and a Transgo TF-2 shift kit in it.

the last converter I cleaned out, I laid it on the bench engine side down and sucked all the fluid out with a manual brake bleeder pump (harbor freight). Then I put some gas in it and sloshed it around (stood it up and rolled it side to side a bit), laid it down and sucked that out. I did that...

if you go with the BB/727, you will probably need a 727 out of a car (at least the longer tailshaft and housing) and swap the internals between the 2 trannys. Then you will need all the other stuff for the swap... (motor mounts, exhaust, proper oil pan, etc...)

I used a B&M star shifter in my Willys wagon for 15 years or so, lived it and have been thinking about getting another for my cuda.

yep, deeper pan only affects the amount of fluid to get it up to the proper level. Proper leve lis not measured from the bottom of the pan but from the top so, since the dipstick and tube did not change, use the same marks as before.

I have run a few of the original clutch type sure-grip like was suggested from Dr Diff. I ran one in the rear of my Willys wagon on the street and off-road for years.... GREAT UNITs! I have one in my Barracuda now and would recommend this style over a lock-rite on the street. As was already...

should not need to change axles.

the first one you should be able to put in with only replacing the carrier gasket (or use silicone) and new gear oil in the rear end. The 2nd one, you will also need to get bearings for it and then swap your ring gear to it as well.

added the Lubegard Red and have driven ~150 miles with no shifting issues at all. Thanks!

Cracked is spot-on. I have had a number of powerlocks over the years. 30-spline Dana 44, Dana 45, and Mopar 8 3/4 take the same internal parts (side gears, clutches, etc...). Dana 44 takes smaller diameter ring bolts than the 45 but it is the same pattern. (also has a larger ID on the ring than...