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Classic site shows up to 1972?

If you do get the engine to run near 160 make sure you change the oil a little more often because the temp isn't high enough to get the condensation out of the crankcase via the PCV. There is a reason for the factory putting higher rated stats in.

If you have a good heater put the under dash unit in. I didn't have that option being a factory a/c car, that and I added a console.

I took the factory unit out of my 68 and put a Vintage Air unit in. Between the controller and vacuum motors it kept me busy and then the evaporator started leaking. Saved about 30lbs also. Had to make a few mods to the controller

3/4" fan to radiator instruction is for a non shrouded radiator. The fan should be a third to half way into the shroud

220 will vaporize moisture in oil and help the PCV remove it from the oil. 230-235 I want a mile or two stretch of open road to cool it down, I don't like to shut it off unless it quits cooling.. My stat is a 180 so my norm 180-220 with A/C on

I did! I took the unit out and put a Vintage air unit in. Probably not what you wanted to hear but my A/C developed several expensive problems

I just put the Vintage Gen II super into my 68 Valiant and it was very snug to say the least as far as vent hoses. I did hold a Gen IV up in the dash and didn't see any way to run the ducts because they come out of the drivers side of the unit.

I had a standard fan throw a blade into the battery

Yes but double check with Yellow Rose he knows everything :rofl:

I said depending on conditions. Come on down here and try one our 6% 5 mile long climbs at 110 degrees and the temp gauge will get your attention no doubt. A higher temp keeps oil pollutants down also and 165 is fine for a race car they dump the oil so often. My toys I tune for maximum horse...

The thermostat is for minimum operating temp, too cold an engine is bad news. Every water cooled car on the road will run warmer than the stat depending on conditions that doesn't mean the cooling system is inadequate.

Went for a ride the yesterday 113F outside 440 in a Valiant with A/C cruising at about 200 goes up to about 210 at a light and cools back down to 200-205 before the next light. No worries, 235 is hot. In the cooler months it runs on the 180 stat temp most of the time. I go around and around with...

Amazon has them for 7.99 for GM products so they are longer

205 after 30 minutes at idle, I don't see a problem.

The flow kooler definitely helped at lower RPM

Yes that!

Middle is in the normal operating range.

Sorry, I found it at Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P3VV97E/?tag=joeychgo-20 And you have to fab up the mounting.

Never mind

Oh 180 stat and tried 2 other fans.

I tried just about everything and everything I did helped a little bit until now. 68 Valiant 440 with A/C. Took the 3" thick 22" Champion radiator out put in a triple pass cross flow from Summit in that helped at speed and the hight flow water pump helped at low speeds, electric pusher and...

Wouldn't take much movement would it.

I have right at 2 7/8" from the core to the pulley and the 2947 clutch is 2.67" how close is to close? I am going to check the fan tips to core to see if it is square if not that is a deal killer.

A little info. I don't know what year of car you have but I found that my 68 factory A/C car has different fire wall holes than a non A/C car. So if you later decide you need heat and defrost you will be relocating holes if your car falls into that trap. Oh and the push button controller won't...

Got my answer from Schumacher , thanks anyway

What's the problem, the highs are supposed to be in the 80s and the lows in the 60s. Drive the thing :toothy10: