A/C Complete Removal

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DartVadar

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So before I take out my 318 and drop my 360 in place I was looking at ways to clean up things under the hood. And one thing that is going is the A/C unit and the hardware. But I notice that there are lines that go from the A/C unit to this little black cup like thing and to another row in front of the radiator. I'm probably way off on some of my terms here, because I really have no idea what I'm looking at! LOL

How can I remove the A/C unit without effecting the functionality of other things? The heater box doesn't matter either as I am blocking off the feeds that go from the water pump to the heater box anyways.
 
The big problem, unless you already have, is getting a pulley set for the engine that fits and works together to eliminate the factory A/C belt set up.

From there it's a matter of starting at the firewall, removing one of the A/C hoses, and just following around the loop until you get all hoses and components off the car.

You might be able to sell them

Post photos of unknown components

"Black cup thing" does not "say" much to me. "Black tank thing?" That would be the receiver dryer.

The "row in front of the radiator" is the condenser. Get yourself a shop manual. What year is the car?

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617
 
So before I take out my 318 and drop my 360 in place I was looking at ways to clean up things under the hood. And one thing that is going is the A/C unit and the hardware. But I notice that there are lines that go from the A/C unit to this little black cup like thing and to another row in front of the radiator. I'm probably way off on some of my terms here, because I really have no idea what I'm looking at! LOL

How can I remove the A/C unit without effecting the functionality of other things? The heater box doesn't matter either as I am blocking off the feeds that go from the water pump to the heater box anyways.


I see your in alberta, like Me I'm also in Canada and having delt with dewy nights and chilly ones I think you'd be crazy to block heater off or take it out, just like removing wipers (illegal in NS)

some people remove A/C but frankly a car with it is worth much more here in canada because its not nearly as common to see one with it

I much prefer it because it gets blistering hot here in the summer (over 110 is common) and it makes driving a car with no A/C during the day really UN-injoyable
 
The car is a 73 dart swinger.

Sorry about that, yea it would be the receiver dryer, and okay, I kinda though it was the condenser but I just wasn't sure. And I was under the impression that I could just take out the A/C unit and use the stock pulley system with different belts and just live with an extra notch where the A/C unit originally was. Or am I completely wrong about this? But I have another non-ac pulley system I think.

But I don't necessarily want to get rid of the parts in case I want to put them back on to sell the car or something. Just take them out of the car without wrecking anything. The car will be rarely driven long distances and won't be driven everyday, so the heating and cooling isn't really needed, But If I feel the need for some heat I can easily hook it back up. The A/C doesn't work either, something is wrong with it, It only blows super hot air into the cabin no matter what.

Also I have an A/C water pump installed on the new motor, I used an A/C pump because I thought that I could use my A/C pulley system minus the unit. Can I buy a bypass pulley that keeps the belts in the stock place? but just without the actual A/C unit.
 
I am following this thread. I started to take the AC system off of my car before it goes for resto work, but it never occurred to me that I would have to change the pulley set up. The AC system on my car currently has no belt so it obviously will not work. I want to take the AC off of my car just to clean up under the hood, but I don't intend to get rid of it.
 
I am following this thread. I started to take the AC system off of my car before it goes for resto work, but it never occurred to me that I would have to change the pulley set up. The AC system on my car currently has no belt so it obviously will not work. I want to take the AC off of my car just to clean up under the hood, but I don't intend to get rid of it.

Yeah that's the main reason why I want to take mine off.
 
Okay so I just tool a look an I have the current A/C pulley that is on my 318 and a NON-A/C pulley and brackets on the 360. But I have the A/C water pump. I know it's important to keep the A/C diameter pulleys with the A/C water pump, but could I just us the A/C pulleys on my 318 with the brackets on the 360 non-A/C? Or will they not line up if I do this.

Or can I run the alternator, water pump off of the crank pulley, and the power steering off of the crank like usual?
 
I'm pretty sure you have to have "all" pulleys and brackets. There were changes over the years in cars, trucks, vans. "A matched set" whatever they are off of is good.

I don't think the AC / non AC pump matters. You want to make sure you have a late timing cover and water pump, and late pulleys. (Timing mark on driver side, lower pump inlet on pass side)
 
I'm pretty sure you have to have "all" pulleys and brackets. There were changes over the years in cars, trucks, vans. "A matched set" whatever they are off of is good.

I don't think the AC / non AC pump matters. You want to make sure you have a late timing cover and water pump, and late pulleys. (Timing mark on driver side, lower pump inlet on pass side)

So I guess as long as I use a matching set of pulleys I'm good? So I'll just use the non-ac pulley setup that came on the 360. The only issue with doing that is the power steering pump bracket is different, and so is the diameter of the pulley (I could be wrong), Can I change out the pulley with a non-A/C one so its the correct ratio with all the non-A/C pulleys? So in other words just make sure everything is consistent and I'm not mis matching parts.

And yes I have the timing cover and water pump that you mentioned.
 
Finally got the AC system off of my Dart. This is what it ended up looking like. All we did was get some spacers for the alternator mounting bracket. The previous owner had apparently already installed shorter belts.





 
Finally got the AC system off of my Dart. This is what it ended up looking like. All we did was get some spacers for the alternator mounting bracket. The previous owner had apparently already installed shorter belts.

4E48F0C7-C36A-442A-9093-DF930E3D7950_zpszjv3aoct.jpg


7322F4F7-A018-43C6-B39F-0CB0E59853DF_zpshyda1ofn.jpg


BAB7CBF1-8C80-4CFE-AA7E-19CF70AA56DC_zpsn17nbw7q.jpg
do you know the part number for the power steering belt
 
A little info. I don't know what year of car you have but I found that my 68 factory A/C car has different fire wall holes than a non A/C car. So if you later decide you need heat and defrost you will be relocating holes if your car falls into that trap. Oh and the push button controller won't work either you will have to fab something up.
 
A little info. I don't know what year of car you have but I found that my 68 factory A/C car has different fire wall holes than a non A/C car. So if you later decide you need heat and defrost you will be relocating holes if your car falls into that trap. Oh and the push button controller won't work either you will have to fab something up.
sorry the engine is a 74 360 i think it was out of a challenger, it had ac but i removed everything put non ac single pulley alternator and non ac water pump pulley and non ac crank pulley. my power steering pump is in the exact location yours is in from what it looks like, that's why i was asking about the power steering belt.
 
I removed all of my under hood A/C components many years ago.

I bought (from ebay) another rear compressor/alternator bracket and did some cutting. I then purchased a small block Chevy chrome alternator adjustment arm (~$10 at O'Reilleys) and cut it to use for the alternator pivot point. I use a second PS (Federal pump) belt which connects the alternator to the crank (with a little grinding of a rib on the water pump). Been like this for several years, and several thousand miles with no troubles. All in about $50. Cheap and easy, and I still have all the original parts if i ever want to go back.

DSCN8190.JPG
 
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