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Thanks Mike, got it! I'll stay with the cap I have. 16 - 18 psi.

Thanks Redfish. It does!

Thanks...still looking for the pressure system answer. Why is the caps PSI important?? I know that it makes your system like a "pressure cooker" and that the higher the PSI cap..will increase the boiling point temp. So why not use a MAX PSI cap and to lower the overall temp as max as...

Thanks, :read2: I have read told to stay away from "stop leak" as it can do later damage to engine gaskets or clog important cooling passages. If it's not one thing it seems to be another....Oh crap!!

Think I have the right idea..just want too make sure and get some feedback. I noticed today (after a good ride weekend) that I had a "small" upper seam rad leak. I believe that my cap is rated at 16-18 PSI and that my stat is 180* I will be looking for a new rad down the road however for the...

How can something so simple be difficult.....now you have me stumped looking around! Engine looks good Jerry!

You guys sure do nice work!!!! Now "I" want one! Come on over :toothy10:

One good thing! If it ran cool on backwards...it will be really cool now :lol:

Ya gotta just hate that!! :cussing: Another why me lord :lol: I'm sure you will find something.

Thanks for your help...you got a PM :lol:

Thanks for your comments and help...I've been informed that the only differance is the core size in the width department..(two) inches..20 vice 22. Now I'm wondering how much of a differance (in temp) this effect could be with the 2 inch loss which is = to a 6" square. Wouldn't that be like a...

Anyone know for sure?? I have been offered a /6 rad from a dart, 74 I think. Everything about it matches up with the installation and 72 v8 block (except upper outlet) that a shop can move over. I have been also told.... the cooling system maybe too small to keep the v8 cool. Just "Eye" balling...

Thanks Boys :thumbup:

Putting a (72) rebuild SB 318 in the 69 Signet 273. I have noticed/remebered that the water pump outlet is different due to years which I can't change due to the timing/damper ect. (I don't know when the year changed for sure on the SB) I do understand, more then likely due to AC or power...

Some info good, just drop any words HONDA http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/overheating/index.html

As Longgone stated....as wellI was under the impression that the newer or (later) rad hoses had a re-inforced spring molded within the rubber itself....I cut one in two and there was a spring core.... :scratch:

Johnny, best thing you have changed it, they look good however they seem to only last about 4-6 months then eat themself inside out. :angry4: (not worth the BS of ripping it apart).....Now you look MOPAR :lol: PS again the see though fuel filers looks good, but it's also important to get it...

I'm the one who had mine done for fifty bucks Canadian. It was a cheaper way to go for me then changing out a pump. They did a "excellent job" and of course you also get it presure tested at the same time. That's something you won't have to worry about down the road. As a added idea, if you...

I had the same problem after a rebuild. New rad as well? Anyways, depending on what you would rather do. I took my rad to a (rad shop) and they moved my outlet to the other side for 50.00. Did a real good job and retested. It was well worth it for me. Just a thought :salut:

Hi again Triggerjay. They were produced with them of course. Both my Mops never had them. So unless your inspection station require them??? What the hell. Keep your hands clear of the blade :thumblef:

Them mopar blues :-({|= Had the same problem swapping out a engine. It was cheaper $50.00 to have to lower rad coupling removed and rewelded to the other side. The Rad shop also tested it for pressure. Works great