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Though less than ideal, I’m forced to run a pusher. SPAL fans are known for actually moving their advertised cfm. For me, a 16” (30102047) has worked. Had to modify the hood latch/grille brace for fitment. Not quiet though. A1 Electric Online Catalog -- Spal Cooling Fans and Accessories Unless...

You already have things covered but here's what I did years ago... I ordered some 2“ and 2.5” duct hose from Nostalgic Air Parts who sells hose by the foot along with their 2” to 2.5” adaptor. I attached a piece of 2.5” directly to one of the ducts in the dash. I then attached a short piece of...

That's what I asked too... Oh, well...

Use as simple catch or recovery? Couldn't you replace the valve with a barb and treat that as your in/out? Use the upper fitting as the vent - even run a hose down low and it will act as overflow. You'd have to use a recovery cap on the rad.

Used a 16" SPAL pusher (301022047) on my 22" core (with no room for any fans in the usual position). Obviously you'd want a puller but those SPAL fans move some serious air.

I'm using a Jaz coolant recovery tank hidden inside the fender where there's lots of room. No need to get to it.

Spacing applies to pusher fans - something to do with the blade distance to core affecting performance. It's been a few years since I researched it so I could be mistaken, but something about that stands out in my memory. The corrected part number to what I posted should be 30102047 or...

I'm with TrailBeast. I installed a 16" SPAL (#301022047 - which outperforms Derale, IMO) and had to modify the latch support for motor clearance. The SPAL moves some serious air and you need to space any fan away from the radiator core slightly for it to work properly. Mine's spaced about 1/2".

It was part of a resto and hasn't been tested yet but seemed to 'function' and felt fine out of the box. Better than the old one. I'm not seeing it in a search in Autozone right right now but at the time I just used the Chrysler number stamped on the part. 2-3 numbers superseded to that one.

FYI, I bought a replacement a few years ago through Autozone. Can get them through Rock Auto too: RockAuto

For me, a Gates #20875 or Dayco #70539 is the ticket. I've used it on my BB Duster and am using the same one on a BB truck we're building. You trim the radiator end to length.

As a kid, I read about what it would do and tried it. Science. :)

I agree that vinegar would probably help if you don't want to use harsh chemicals or have it rodded out. You ever throw a chicken bone in vinegar overnight? Turns to rubber - kinda comical.

Nice! I'm pretty sure 20875 is the one I used too in the photo above. Was used on B's, C's and trucks. CHRYSLER 300 1968 CHRYSLER CORDOBA (1975 - 1978) CHRYSLER IMPERIAL (1967 - 1975) CHRYSLER NEW YORKER (1967 - 1978) CHRYSLER NEWPORT (1967 - 1978) CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY (1967 - 1977) DODGE...

Would depend on where your inlet on the radiator is located. In either case I've had luck finding molded hoses by looking up applications for B or C-Body cars with BB's. Trim one end of the hose or the other and they fit perfectly. For example, a Dayco 70369 (or cross ref to other) might fit the...

Had a 22" copper 3 row, solid mechanical fan, shroud, 180* hi-flow stat that did the job. (Tried an electric fan, but didn't cut it). On the blown motor I run a Summit 22" aluminum 2 row cross-flow with a single electric pusher in front (because of space) - not exactly ideal but it works well...

You could epoxy it in but for a more seamless repair, I'd bevel the edges and fiberglass it in with resin and mat starting on the backside. Doesn't have to be pretty there. Little more resin and mat on the front, DA smooth, and paint. Nice job on the patch.

Running a Summit cross flow too - partially for space reasons. TIG welded tabs and bolted to the core support. Relatively cheap and works really well. I capped it with a piece of aluminum to make it looker nicer.

Anymore, I'm a fan of the old school Permatex sealers too - #2 or #3. In this case, I'd opt for a little insurance over a dry gasket.

I had a red air compressor hose in the shop that would do that every winter. Really weird. Wiped it off with a rag moistened with lacquer thinner and it was good to go till the next winter.

I got the Derale Single Fan Relay kit #16739 from Summit for $35. I'm sure you can purchase just the sender (switch). Works great. I've tried the adjustable versions too. Install one in your block - not a probe in the radiator.

NOTE: These are for C-body applications but may be the same switch. Check Autozone or Oreilly for an AC Heater Control Switch #SW259 or on Rock Auto: Standard Motor Products #2952, AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S2407, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # HS101 (depending on your switch). All are around $50...

FWIW, I got a 22" 3-row (stock style) from US Radiator to cool my 440 with a proper shroud and a solid fan. When I built the blower motor there was no room for any kind of fan so I switched to a 22" aluminum crossflow (2 row) unit from Summit with an electric pusher fan. To my surprise it...

Bought aluminum flat stock at the local hardware store, cut mounting tabs, and had them TIG welded to the tanks where I wanted them. (My tanks were heavy enough gauge to do this). Then, just bolt it to the core support. Doing this was less expensive then buying a radiator with brackets built in.

This is a photo of a late 440 housing but my stock '69 383 has these connections. Ignore the X location - probably won't be there. If the housing is early enough, there may only be two ports on top and the sender will be located in a smaller hole on the front.

Dumping some vinegar in should dissolve calcium too.

I used one like this in the past. There's a little pot on it to adjust the on/off range. Amperage draw may require two or a dual controller. 8/16 amps would be low. SPAL fans are worth investigating too. Their flow ratings are considered more accurate. I have a single 16" SPAL that moves some...

If the level is low enough or the coolant clear enough you'll be able to see whether there are white calcium deposits in the ends of the tubes. Retarded ignition timing can cause it to run hot.

It's possible there's an issue with the sender or gauge but after ruling out the thermostat I'd be inclined to check the radiator for plugged passages, the condition of the radiator cap, and ignition timing.

I've always heard that a cold running engine (ie: not operating within the temp range it's designed to) accelerates wear too (but not overnight). Don't know exactly what the scientific reasoning is behind the declaration. However, I can say that since an engine is a big heat pump it needs to run...