Search results for query: *

A manual rod should work. An MC adapter will only move the MC out about 1/4". What's important is that you use a rod that is secured to the MC with a rubber retainer. Doctor diff also sells adjustable rods with the retainer: Mopar '62 -'70 Adjustable Master Cylinder Push Rod

This thread is dated but I can confirm much of what's being said here. I also contacted Wilwood to learn what's up since there are vendors selling the MF only kit with no mention of MF spindles - and the kits are priced less than the 140-15465 series kits only available from Wilwood. Resellers...

As a follow-up: The auto machine shop has a disc only lathe he says won't work and won't touch the old drum lathe sitting next to it. I went to an industrial machine shop and they're telling me about $100 to cut 'em down - so, that's where I might end up.

Ha! Not in good with the local O'Reilly's either. They're all punks - but I appreciate your offer. I'll talk to an automotive machine shop I've done business with.

I'm not a brake lathe operator but will see if I can find someone willing to do it.

Got an Autozone here buy not a lot of confidence in them.

Wheel Wheel center cap clearance.

Thanks, but he tells me his current inventory does not have the bevel.

Wilwood aside, and short of machining on a lathe or going medieval with a grinder, has anyone seen a source for OEM type disc brake rotors (typical early 70's and up, 11") that have a beveled nose on the hub? 99.9% have a square nose. Dr. Diff has a photo of a beveled nose rotor but doesn't...

I tried one like that - required way, way too much leg effort for my taste. Panic stop? Forget it. I run a 1-1/32" Aluminum (Doctor Diff) now which is much better but could stand to be a little smaller yet. We put a 15/16" Aluminum (also from Doctor Diff) on my son's BB D100 truck with manual...

Tried tried the 1-1/32" (w/Truck reservoir) and the smaller 15/16" (angled reservoir) - both from Dr. Diff. The bigger one on my Duster requires more leg effort than I really care for. We put the smaller one on my sons BB Dodge truck project (went from power to manual brakes) and it works really...

I have one of each of his MC's. The 1-1/32" came with a large, 'level' sitting reservoir which he later referred to as a truck reservoir. The 15/16" had the smaller, 'tilted' reservoir. I shimmed the caps on one of them by adding a plastic discs cut from a milk carton between the rubber gasket...

I was talking to Cass (Doctor Diff) last week about this since my son is doing a rear disc brake conversion on a Ford 9". We already had one of the aluminum MC's he sells (essentially same as Mancini unit) and he said it would work fine without any mention of stroke or volume. He said they're...

I don't recall the exact reason (or if Ehrenberg even says why), but he recommends not using an MC from a FWD application. Not saying you can't - just bringing it up. I got a smaller one from Dr. Diff (with adaptor) but not cheap. http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html

You should be able to buy a replacement cable (the main one from the cowl to adjuster/equalizer at rear. I got one through Napa.

I bought some custom/aftermarket wheels years ago which, unbeknownst to me, were designed with a Ford center bore and they wouldn't fit over the disc brake hub. Had to open them up on a milling machine to 2.85". No guarantee's that I have my facts straight but some poking around on the web...

I believe the hub diameter (wheel center bore) is 2.85" for Chrysler, 2.75" for Ford.

The cable retainer in the trans cross member can be a pain to release without destroying. Just a warning. And if you plan to ever add subframe connectors, the hole in that crossmember is just about where the connectors will go. I had to relocate the hole. Again, just a heads up.

I think these instructions and illustrations from the service manual are as clear as any photos would be.

That's the 1.03" MC I mentioned that Doctor Diff can supply you with (including adapter). It will increase pedal effort from the 15/16" you have now - probably by quite a bit. That's what I run. So now, we've come full circle.

The bigger the bore, the more effort is required for braking. Personally, for a manual brake setup I'd want 1.03" or smaller (for stock calipers). A 1.125" requires a lot of leg. They often publish the bore size on OEM replacements. It's all relative to caliper bore displacement too. You may...

I agree. You can't go wrong with a brand new aluminum one from Dr. Diff which includes a two bolt mounting adaptor. I got my 1.03" one from him. I would stay away from a parts store reman aluminum unit for two reasons: a) Reman aluminum units were known to fail because they couldn't rebuild...

The truck MC's have a larger bore (1.125") which means it will require more leg pressure. Some like this but I didn't and I thought I would. You should be able to find a parts store MC for the Dart with disc/drums. I switched to an aluminum one with a 1.03" bore. Still requires some leg but not...

I'd be looking for another one. There's no telling where the chewed up one is locating that outer bearing in relation to the inner.

Yes, but we're trusting he's describing the symptoms accurately and correctly. If the pedal's actually at the end of it's travel with air in the lines there might be enough pressure to kinda stop the car. I'm suggesting he start with the simplest things to check and systematically eliminate...

Bleeding the system might be a good place to start. Also, it would be good to know what the previous owner installed for a MC - whether it's a stock application or they put something on like a truck MC that has a larger bore. The larger the bore, the more pedal effort is required.

Don't have it for a '72 but here is a section out of '70 FSM. http://www.70duster440.com/brakes.pdf

Can't say whether they're the best but I got all my brake and fuel hard lines through Finelines. Everything fit well. Call them and tell them what you've got. They'll help you order the right stuff.

May be leaking at the parting line because of the way it was cast/finished. Won't seal right. You may be able to clean it up to make it work.

At the time I bought mine, Dr. Diff had the best deal on aluminum MC and adaptor. I initially tried an iron truck MC with 1.125" bore. Too much leg effort for my taste and comfort level. Dr. Diff's was 1.03" - a big improvement. You're not likely to get an aluminum unit going the reman route...