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The hole where the hinge attaches through the glass is fairly large.Try loosening the screw and pushing the hinge as far forward as you can while tightening the screw. I found it created tension that helps hold the window more securely in the open and closed positions.

In 1970 the windshield garnish was stainless steel. At some point the factory switched to shi**ty anodized aluminum. That could account for slight changes in clip style and type used at a given location. I see no reason to believe someone installed 4 of the wrong clip on you car. Like I said, I...

...and an initial clip kit from Restoration Specialties has the wrong tall clips (bottom right). They were too tall. I sent pics of the originals and got the correct ones.

It’s been many, many years but I recall a mixture of clips on my ‘70, no vinyl top. Seems the odd ones were across the bottom. Looking back at notes: Out of all the front clips, 5 were different. There are 9 total across the bottom. I reinstalled the tall clips (with slotted screw holes) in the...

...and when the time comes to use tape to protect edges and so forth, get the automotive refinishing tape from an auto body supplier or even a quality blue painters tape for easy removal later. Don't use the common crap found at hardware stores.

Raptor Liner is really nice (I've used it) but it can get spendy and once mixed, you're stuck with using it right away. Similar to what others have suggested already, I've also used this undercoat from RestoRick. It says it's rubberized but actually dries quite hard and rigid like the original...

Back then my dad used to say you wouldn't want to buy a car built on a Friday or Monday.

I seem to recall the 6 Pack hood I bought for my ‘70 from AAR Fiberglass (but no longer have), was branded such on the underside structure. Anything there?

You might have luck with one of the 'environmentally safe' graffiti removes you can get at the hardware store - the ones that don'e use a solvent type chemical. I used some once to strip paint from a dash bezel and it worked well without harming the plastic. Has to kinda soak and soften the...

Pauly is right, the bracket keeps the remote cable 'tamed' so it doesn't interfere with the glass as you roll the window up and down. As he indicated in the photo, the head of the machine screw that holds the bracket on the inside is hidden under the end of the door weatherstrip (where I'm...

Depends on what kind of finish you're after. Some would block it all down, lay more primer on, and do it all over again. What some make the mistake of (and you're not) is jumping too far in grits. They end up polishing highs/lows instead of flattening the surface.

Guide coat each stage. Some will go to 600 but that's more important with metallics (a missed heavy sand scratch will show in metallic base coat). Ask 10 guys and you'll probably get 10 different suggestions.

Sure. Long blocks with guide code. Wet sand is messy but easier to spot waves using the water. But if you have highs or lows that didn't come out with the 180 there isn't a point in going finer till they're worked out.

Lord Fusor 129

Don't know if it's 'proper' or not but I'd just use the black strip caulk.

A little ball of 3M strip caulk. I’ve had a package of it for years.

The thread above has some info I posted. To do the glass the frame has to come apart. Remove the factory rivet(s) that hold the vertical metal piece to the rest of the frame. It goes all the way through. You can use short pop rivets on both sides during reassembly. Once separated, the glass...

We tried a Summit single stage, non-metallic. It comes pre-reduced (and pretty runny). The stuff laid out and cured nice but the color was so translucent there were some mismatches shooting (in pieces) over gray sealer. Might have gotten away with it over white. Additional coats would have...

If you're confident the hinges aren't worn then the only thing left is to adjust it at the hinge. A small adjustment at the hinge will translate to a large change at the other end of the door. Bolts on the cowl side adjust the door up and down. Bolts on the door adjust the door in and out from...

Manufacturers will caution about over-reducing but you may, in fact, have to reduce it more. Matrix epoxy is that way and even the dealer suggests it.

For the best protection you would epoxy the joint to be sealed first. That way, if the seam sealer were to fail later, you don't have bare metal underneath. This would apply to any joint. The factory didn't do this - or care.

It is well hidden. On mine the hole (and screw head) is under the weatherstrip indicated in the photo below.

Seen them in the fastener drawers at the local Ace Hardware...

Sorry, I post the wrong link to the seal itself. That's for the rear upper portion of the fender. They also have a vertical seal that runs along the edge of the bolt-in metal splash shield behind the tire. The headlight seal in the photo (Resto specialties lists it as '71-'72) is HLS018. The...

Bill, they can be installed with the fenders on. Don’t have a pic handy but I think it’ll be pretty obvious one you have the splash shields with clips in hand and look up in there behind the headlight bucket. There are little holes where the clips snap into. I’m happy with the stuff I get from...

Had a pretty tall air cleaner (with drop base) on mine with room to spare... They’re nice hoods.

Shaved mine (amongst other things). I have yet to be questioned by the 'authorities'. No inspection where I'm at. Would also depend somewhat, I imagine, on how savvy an inspector is about such things. Also registered as a 'Collector Vehicle' so it's nice not to have to buy tabs every year.

FWIW, I've used brushable by Evercoat and Eastwood without complaint. The Evercoat and Wurth are priced similarly per quart. The Eastwood is about $15+ less.

The two-part seam sealers are really nice (I really like Fusor) but tend to be spendy and often require a special gun. For the money, and if you want it to look factory (crude), just use a brushable seam sealer - as has been suggested already. The stuff cures fast and is tough. One I would avoid...

Carbide bits (cone, cylinder) in a die grinder - at least for quick rough shaping .