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I went to a good tool store around here and bought a spiral cutting bit for my air die grinder. I clamped them to the workbench and it took about 30 minutes to get all 8 holes done. I think it was a $12 bit but WELL worth the money.

Yup, U joint fit fine

I think I shortened my driveshaft 2.25 inches when switching from a 7.25 to the 8.75

I would fill the convertor with about a quart of fluid and then a thin coating on the snout. Carefully slide it into the tranny making sure it is seated all the way. I then take 3/8 open end wrench with the angle pointing in against the convertor and run a splash shield bolt through the closed...

I think by the X he means that is a 741 case.

Those damn things can get frustrating cant they!? Glad you got it seated. You may want to make a reference mark just in case you have to take it apart again.

Yeah, it sure looks like it needs to go in farther. Those mounting bosses look like their flush with the bell housing- not far enough

361, 383, 400, 413, 426, 440 = Big Block 273, 318, 340, 360 = Small Block

No. I just pulled it back about an eighth of an inch rotated very little and then tried to seat it more. eventually it got to where it was fully seated. I took a straight edge and drew a line on the inside of the bell housing with a sharpie so I knew that when I installed it for the final...

How far from the tranny bellhousing are the torque convertor threaded mounting tabs when it is unbolted from the engine (ie, how much clearance from the front of the flange)? I wanna say that mine was about 5/8 - 3/4 of an inch. I thought my convertor was fully seated but played with it some...

One more vote for the Lokar setup! It was easy to install and adjust. Just make sure you get the LKR-4000 bracket to mount it to the carb stud. I'm running the same set up as Eric and I love it

That sounds like the pinion snubber mentioned above. I'm not running one at the moment because I'm waiting on the funds to but an adjustable one. They arent hard to find, I'm sure there are quite a few people on the forum that have one or two in their garage. They pop up on here once in a while.

Huh. I thought 904's and 727's used different length dipsticks but I could be wrong

What trans are you ordering the dipsticks for? 904, 727?

I had the same noise once- turned out to be a tranny cooler line against the crank pulley!

I wanna say I put 9 in mine and it still reads right at full- warm with tranny in neutral

Thanks Fishy- I read about the rooster comb thing and wasnt sure what year they changed or if I could just buy a switch with the 3 prongs. I found one at Advance Auto for around $15. i think I'll give it a try.

Great. Thanks Dan! Now I've got something to do tonight

So if its laying on the ground under my car it wont ground out right?! Just kidding. Thats a good explanation Red, thanks!

Putting the big block 727 in I noticed that it has a single post for the Neural Safety Switch and the harness from the 904 I took out has a 3 prong connector. Can I crimp on a round connector to the single post and worry about the reverse lights later so I can crank this thing? Second...

Sweet. Thanks for the quick reply there Joe. Now I need to get my *** to work.

Well, I think I'm gonna try to wrestle my 727 in today and was wondering how much fluid to put in the torque convertor before I put it in. Also, I read that an empty tranny will take around 10 qts of fluid, what type are you guys running? Thanks!

73-76 duster or dart rear axles will probably be from an 8.25 axle. I got my yukons with green bearings and 3 inch studs from Mancini. Got the brakes from a 74 Pick up (10x2.25). everything from plates to drums for $50.

I had mine shortened at the local driveline shop when I swapped out the 7.25 for the 8.75 and it only cost me $50.00

Hey, just goes to show ya- someone knows. You just may have to wait a year or two. Or four!!

Yeah that should do it! I've seen smaller lines on skid steers and backhoes!

If you have a convertor from a 318, just a flexplate. Someone here may remember the part number you'll need.

Get a B & M flexplate that is weighted for the externally balanced 360. that way you can run a neutrally balanced convertor.

I thought a half inch drive ratchet with a short extension would get that plug out?

Does this help? http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=12985