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I have never made a bad flare with this tool, they have all came out perfect. I don't think it works with stainless though. They appear out of stock, but Amazon has many of the same style. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html I also use this to clean...

I have the Eastwood version of that one, it works perfectly 100% of the time. I recommend it all the time to others.

The fronts are 17x7 with 4.0" of backspacing with a 215/45R17 tire, the rears are 17x11 with 4.25" of backspacing and 315/35R17 tires. The front end is stock for 1972 with the exception of SSBC disk brake kit, which I think adds a little track width. The rear is mini tubbed and the rear end...

HAHA, let me guess, your jack doesn't go high enough? I have the same setup, but my jack is about 1.5" too short to get the front tires on them. It's quite the process to jack mine up now, but I've got it down pretty well and it doesn't take too long.

I hate my headers whenever I have to work on something underneath. The collectors are probably 4-5" rearward of the trans crossmember and with 2 1/8" primaries, there is no room whatsoever to do anything under there. You can barely even see any of the trans linkage, the torsion bars are...

That's the way I've always done it. I wrapped the ubolts with some electrical tape too, for a little more grip. With how big my headers are, I don't think the actual tool would fit.

I would have to if my wife found out how much it cost!

I don't disagree with you, I would not be interested in using this type of setup either. And the concrete should still have the correct prep work, I was just saying a drop in anchor that catches the bottom half of the slab is an option, not one I would go with. My buddy went with a set of...

I used Redhead drop in anchors to mount my tubing bender to the floor. They are threaded and there is no stud, you run a bolt into them. I was able to remove the tubing bender from the center of my garage when not in use and not have it in the way. I probably installed/removed it 30-40...

Seems a bit steep, but probably on par with the new inflated prices of everything. I wonder if that $9k for concrete included the apron out front too? I would have added another 2' for the ceiling height to be able to put a lift in there and park my camper inside.

Yup, she'd fit right in!

Thanks, it is Q5, a 1969 Dodge color. It's like a turquoise, sometimes it's blue and sometimes it green depending on lighting.

Thanks, I wish it was a little deeper where I park, there's not much room in front of the car.

That's the same thing I do. I'll be starting my trans swap in the next couple weeks, it's tall enough to get the bellhousing out.

I see the wheels, they are for when you unbolt it and move for storage, it bolts into place while in use. I'd be more worried about the website listing a $3500+ lift for under $900 than I would be about using it.

Why's that? They are bolted to the floor just like any other 2 post lift? There's a lot of talk on them at Garagejournal.com, might be able to get some insight over there.

I agree, if the installer said to go that route, it makes sense to do it that way. I was just asking the question, that's all.

Anybody use these on a Racedeck covered floor? The floor is flat, but the tiles have a diamond tread on them, lots of little bumps, and I wonder if the smaller wheels would end up sinking into the floor if left in the same spot for a long time. Not my garage, just a pic off their website...

So I know nothing about lifts, but I see people doing what you do a lot to install them. My question is, why not just remove the piece of concrete between the feet pads? Like a big rectangle of concrete so the new thicker part is the entire width instead of just under the lift feet...

I went with this one and have been happy with it. I just use it to shine the backyard when the dogs go out and start barking, backyard is 120' deep, it reaches the edge just fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L2JZM1F/?tag=fabo03-20 For actual light uses, I have a Fenix PD32. Edit: Just...

Slowly working on mine, it's a 3 car, but only 1 bay is car related, the others are for the wife's car and kid stuff, so none of my stuff goes over there. I do have a Jeep grill that lights up on the other side though.

Another vote for Eastwood. Their flaring tool along with their brake line deburring tool has gotten me a perfect flare 100% of the time. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-tubing-deburring-tool.html

Got it at the same time as the electric harbor freight cut off wheel.

Same here, have a gray one that came with the car a decade ago, holding up great. And bought one at Oriellys for the other car about 7 years ago, still looks brand new. But only used indoors, not in the sun.

I did this with an old Jeep grille. I used a computer power supply to power it. The 12 volt leads for the parking lights and the 5 bolt leads for the headlights so they weren't super bright. I just tied all of the similar voltage supplies together to get enough amperage.

I did a similar thing years ago for my Jeep. My 6 ton stands weren't tall enough to get the tires off the ground when they were under the frame, so I used 2x4's to make 10" tall stands for my jack stands. I have them all stacked up in the corner of the garage when not in use.

Awesome idea!

We have bought two from Kohls recently. They work pretty well on our hardwood and tile.

I did mine on a Thursday and didn't shower again until Monday. It lasted about 5 years before it started to peel up from use. Make sure to do a perfect job of surface prep to get it to last. Mine turned out perfectly smooth.

I didn't have the headroom in my garage for a ceiling fan. I have a 7' tall ceiling that is open to the 'attic' above, my trusses are 4' apart. I ended up buying a box fan and attached it to the joist so it is blowing down. In the winter it made a HUGE difference while working in the garage...