Proper jack points?

-
7

75Chimera

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2023
Messages
15
Reaction score
4
Location
Columbia, SC
The last time I worked on a Dart was the early 80s, probably, and at that time all I had was the bumper jack. Now of course, I've got a hydraulic floor jack. My question is, what are the proper non-bumper jack points? Can I lift from the center of the rear axle, and under the K frame up front? Or should I use a side lift point? I need to get it up on jack stands to get some work done, and I'm assuming that I can put those somewhere under the car near the wheel openings.

I know it's a beginner level question, just don't want to mess anything up.
 
Yes and yes. The rear axle housing and the center of the k-frame are good jack points. I put the jack stands under the frame rails.
 
75Chimera said:
The last time I worked on a Dart was the early 80s, probably, and at that time all I had was the bumper jack. Now of course, I've got a hydraulic floor jack. My question is, what are the proper non-bumper jack points? Can I lift from the center of the rear axle, and under the K frame up front? Or should I use a side lift point? I need to get it up on jack stands to get some work done, and I'm assuming that I can put those somewhere under the car near the wheel openings.

I know it's a beginner level question, just don't want to mess anything up.
Click to expand...
I jack on the pumpkin and K frame. If you put jacks at, or use a jack at the front of the side rails the front end tends to sag a little with an engine in it. I like to use cribbing unless I'm working on the wheels, brakes etc.
20200613_165350.jpg
 
Scamp Rhonda said:
I jack on the pumpkin and K frame. If you put jacks at, or use a jack at the front of the side rails the front end tends to sag with an engine in it. I like to use cribbing unless I'm working on the wheels, brakes etc.
View attachment 1716045289
Click to expand...

By cribbing, do you mean those sets of 2x6s under the wheels? It looks like you alternated direction each layer and probably screwed them together, right?
 
75Chimera said:
By cribbing, do you mean those sets of 2x6s under the wheels? It looks like you alternated direction each layer and probably screwed them together, right?
Click to expand...
I did exactly that except with 2x4s. They are about a 12" cube. It's a very strong design. If you build some, make sure your jack will lift the car high enough so that they'll go under the dangling front wheels. :rolleyes:
 
Scamp Rhonda said:
I jack on the pumpkin and K frame. If you put jacks at, or use a jack at the front of the side rails the front end tends to sag a little with an engine in it. I like to use cribbing unless I'm working on the wheels, brakes etc.
View attachment 1716045289
Click to expand...
Since a car will roll slightly forward and backwards with the transmission in park, I think I would feel a little safer with a 3x3 cribbing arrangement with the top center member missing, which would make for a larger block as well as a chock in front and behind each tire. You can have space between the members in a 3x3. When I say 3x3 I mean 3 members one way and then 3 on top at 90 degrees. The center intersection would provide a solid column for the tire to sit on. The Army Corps of Engineers recommend overhanging the ends by the minimum dimension, so for a 2x4 or 2x6 they would extend 1-1/2" past the member below it, like a log cabin. This is to minimize the risk of splitting. Probably overkill for a car but thought I would share.
 
Scamp Rhonda said:
I did exactly that except with 2x4s. They are about a 12" cube. It's a very strong design. If you build some, make sure your jack will lift the car high enough so that they'll go under the dangling front wheels. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

HAHA, let me guess, your jack doesn't go high enough? I have the same setup, but my jack is about 1.5" too short to get the front tires on them. It's quite the process to jack mine up now, but I've got it down pretty well and it doesn't take too long.

20221113_153744.jpg
 
The fronts are 17x7 with 4.0" of backspacing with a 215/45R17 tire, the rears are 17x11 with 4.25" of backspacing and 315/35R17 tires.

The front end is stock for 1972 with the exception of SSBC disk brake kit, which I think adds a little track width. The rear is mini tubbed and the rear end is narrowed, I can't remember the exact width off the top of my head, 46" and some change maybe?
 
72Duster440 said:
The fronts are 17x7 with 4.0" of backspacing with a 215/45R17 tire, the rears are 17x11 with 4.25" of backspacing and 315/35R17 tires.

The front end is stock for 1972 with the exception of SSBC disk brake kit, which I think adds a little track width. The rear is mini tubbed and the rear end is narrowed, I can't remember the exact width off the top of my head, 46" and some change maybe?
Click to expand...

Thanks!
 
Yeah, that's about the same as mine. I use a 2x4 spacer on the jack and then lift one side up a little by hand. Then go to the other side and do the same. You have nicer cribbing than I do. We used to use the same design to support wrecked railroad cars and locomotives, only we used larger blocking. I did put cabinet handles on mine so they were easier to carry around. :thumbsup:

72Duster440 said:
HAHA, let me guess, your jack doesn't go high enough? I have the same setup, but my jack is about 1.5" too short to get the front tires on them. It's quite the process to jack mine up now, but I've got it down pretty well and it doesn't take too long.
View attachment 1716045737
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top