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One of my front turn signals did not work, so I traced the problem down with a test light. I think the light bulb still lit up but when the blinker was turned on, it just turned off or blinked so dim you couldn't see it. It was a wire you couldn't see inside the pigtail connector right...

So the left signal works fine? Does the right signal turn on at all?

Can you turn the dome light on still when turning the knob all the way?

I got it working. It was a pain to get my hand there especially with the A/C vents were under the dash!

My brake lights are staying on. They will turn off if I pull the pedal up. I looked under the dash and the brake pedal is close but does not push the switch when resting. The manual says to adjust it by removing the nut and sliding the plate closer, but, there is no nut. I can't get to the...

Does it still have the amp gauge hooked up? If so, what did it read?

Does this look like what you were talking about? Some of the copper wires with the insulation coming off look like different gauges. I haven't opened this up yet, but is it possible to replace the wires or cut them and put some shrink tubing on them? Or do they get too hot and need something...

Thanks everyone. Not sure about the special wires but I was hoping I can open the motor housing and put new wires in. The 3 speed remans are way more expensive than the standard ones. Think $160+

Anyone ever rewire the wiper motor with new wires? Mine still works but, the insulation on the wiring going into the side motor is all cracking off. The bare wires are pretty much touching. The insulation is cracked beyond the hole they go through into the motor so I haven't been able to put...

Thanks for the help everyone. I tried the one for the newer van. It fit the threads but ended up being too long and was pushing on the door. I found some old ones on ebay so I will give them a try. Another weird thing is that the original old switch already in there started working with only...

Thanks. I will measure the threads. It's confusing because on Rosevillmoparts website, they don't list the size. It just says large hole or small hole: #4373185 SWITCH-DOOR PILLAR 66-94 Large hole #4687214 SWITCH-DOOR PILLAR 66-78 SMALL HOLE The R/T store has the #4373185 one...

Thanks guys. 1970Duster, I used that part number and searched online and saw a few places that have it. The OEM chrysler parts website has it for under $5! I'll check with the dealer to see if they still have it by any chance.

Thanks for the suggestions. My original has two wires but looks like the bullet connector has only one wire. I looked online and found that autozone used to have one that looks like the right size but it isn't stocked and can't be ordered. The Duralast part number is SW332. Is there a way to...

Happy New Year! Gotta problem here. My original door jamb switch for the passenger side is broken. It is the 2 wire style. I went to Napa and got a new one but when I tried to install it, the threads were smaller than my original so it won't screw in. I tried Kragen and it was the same size...

Well I was wondering on that. It doesn't say dielectric on mine anywhere so was wondering if this one would go on the metal parts. Just says silicone grease. Just says it helps take them on and off and they barely gave any grease. So doesn't seem like enough for the metal parts.

Yeah I've used dielectric grease on landscape lighting bulbs before. Thanks for all the tips.

Yeah same, I've only heard of putting grease on the rotating metal cam when you put new points in. It just says it's recommended for the rotor tip also to reduce RFI emissions.

I got new Mopar ones for my 318. This pic is in my other thread but I'll attach it here too.

Quick question. My plug wires came with a tiny packet of silicone grease. It says apply it thinly to the interior of the boot and to all sides of the distributor rotor tip. So not necessary on the metal correct? It doesn't say to apply it to the metal connectors or anything but I thought that's...

Thanks! Hope the new wires blend in ok lol, my motor looks like it hasn't been touched in almost 40 years. At least they're blue.

Gosh it's the worst when several things go wrong. We did that on my car before and it worked fine to test it but I just have the stock coil.

Just got the new set of wires! I ended up getting some good ol Mopar ones from the dealer. I was close to getting either Taylor or Moroso wires from Summit but after shipping, the price added up. The dealer had these Mopar wires for $43 and got them in the next day. They seem well made but...

Cool, a lot cheaper than the other ones.

Good point, could be that too so not ruling that out. Just thinking it was the spark because the other side is fine tho and I think has some white/gray areas where spark has hit too. I'll try to get rid of those sharp edges.

Thanks, I have one of those so will try it that way around the wires, then compare to new ones.

Update Took a few wires off to test with the meter and they were all in the same ballpark, but did find that the insulation on one was worn. So looks like it's time for new wires. Also some oil was leaking from the valve cover to the plug and wire so that's gotta be messing with it too.

The wire was only jumping the spark to the manifold shield only when it was close to it (about 1/4" or so). But still, the wire should insulate that to prevent it. Just weird that the spark would rather jump the wire than go to the plug it's directly connected to. So just hoping if I got new...

Thanks for the info. The plugs have been changed recently, and from the looks, it has been zapping the metal over the years. So the plug wire is probably worn. I can pull the plug to check it out too.

Thanks will check those out

I was hearing this noise but didn't sound like it was near the distributor and the engine would have faint hiccups. Found that the spark was jumping the wire to the manifold shield causing a miss every now and then. Looks like it has been happening for a while because the metal was eaten away...