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Definitely don't want to try and get a gasket the same as the bore. If it overhangs the bore or chamber at all you'll end up with problems. A little bigger is typically better.

Buy a degree wheel and follow the instructions. It’s another tool in your toolbox. Buy a decent one and you’ll have it for many years.

Phenolic Carb Spacers are great for helping reduce heat within the carb/fuel bowls.

Jet extensions may help here

Try replacing a quart of oil with a quart of Lucas Oil Treatment. It's "sticky" and helps eliminate total bleed down, dry starts, etc. A friend turned me onto it and I use it in my ride now.

Superformance Gaskets.

One of those scopes with a light for a cell phone would probably help there.

I would choose Mancini over those other two. Harland Sharp bodies have proven to be some of the best out there.

I wouldn't want to run that cam with "non-adjustable" rockers myself.

I’ve done this before and had problems. Make sure the new clutch disk clears the inside cutaway. I think my flywheel may have been a 273 one. Didn’t know till I took it out on the street. Tore it back apart and it wore the inner rivets on the disk down. Threw away the disk and the flywheel and...

Are you using a Lokar pedal? If so they can usually be "clocked" to provide more throw.

There's plenty of data out there. Bob's the oil guy, etc. Rotella has as much zinc as most shelf street (non-race) oils. I've never had a bearing, lifter or any other type of issue that would be considered "oil related" and the motor's always look good if you take them apart. Race car will be a...

A little off. T4 is dino, T5 Blended. I've run T4 15w-40 with a bottle of zinc in the hot rods for years. Also put in my mowers and T5 in my Victory bike. I'm a fan. It takes diesel abuse to 10-15,000 miles without issue. It's certainly good enough for our little motors.

And I'm sure it's one of a hundred or more pans out there of that model that are wrong.

If you put the solid lifter in and set the adjuster to zero threads showing, wouldn't that get you pretty close as the exposed threads will then become preload? You can also see how far 2 1/2 turns drops the thread below the rocker. Two threads seems to be the golden number to shoot for.

Timing and heat in carb. Can you run a small phenolic spacer under the carb? And time to get your own timing light.

So most likely that bore is a little tight or out of shape, line, etc. Just needs a little love next time before final assembly. Personally, I would try to ream by cutting an old cam to see if that cleans it up. Then you have a plan once the bearings are changed. I wouldn't mess with the bores...

"That's why you shouldn't replace them unless you absolutely must. That's just silly advice unless your building garbage. Anytime I take a block in, it's tanked, magged and gets new cam bearings. Never had an issue in my 30 years of screwing with cars. If the cams tight and you're not...

Ok, surface area deal makes sense.

Not sure why static would be better unless there’s a reliability issue with the swinging setup.

Not sure how my shop does mine. I’ll have to ask. You can take an old cam, cut grooves in the journals at a 45 degree angle with a die grinder and “ream” them at home. Haven’t had to myself but I’d do it in a heartbeat if I needed to instead of dropping the block back off.

The bearings need to be “sized” sometimes after getting pounded in. If the cam’s tight it’s a dead giveaway.

If the cam is tight in the bore, I’d say the shop didn’t size the bores after installing the new bearings. My shop makes me give them a cam so they can test fit it.

Grind the intake or covers. Spacers blow. Only use as last resort in my opinion. Just another item to leak. Very common for the mopar covers to hit the intake runner and need a little massaging.

Carb unless you're up for a steep learning curve and a bunch of work. I went efi on my street car and I don't recommend it to many as they're not diligent enough with their fuel system or wiring to make an efi reliable. Then if it doesn't "self tune" 100% they blame Holley. Gotta put in the...

Wow, I can see that once you explained the seat angles. That definitely hurts the wallet.

You can usually mill the heads quite a bit as long as you take the proper amount off this intake. I'm guessing later heads may be thinner but my ported "J" heads when I had a small block were down in the 60-62cc range after getting chopped and worked quite well on my 360. I'd see if you can find...

Maybe it sat for a long time & fired up basically dry. This is why I squirt some oil in the cylinders and rotate with all the plugs out to try and get the rings moving smoothly before lighting off a motor that's been sitting.

That's a great build that many could nearly replicate on here without much trouble. Thanks for posting.

Don't think anyone was talking about the HP series. Car would definitely pickup with that style. I live in the north and haven't used a choke in 20 years or more. Just got to keep your foot on the gas a little till it warms up. No big deal.