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The charging system is made up of FOUR components; The AC charging Coil, the AC to DC convertor the Regulator and the battery. The 6 little bent pieces are the diodes that make up the convertor. These are the most common trouble-makers. Well besides the brushes, and the battery connections, lol.

The airleak at the booster grommet may not be 100% of your stalling. What's your idle-timing? If you run too much idle-timing, the throttle will be too far closed at idle, and the transfers will slow right down. Depending on your cam-size, the Transfers could even dry up. Then when you put it in...

I have a 68 Barracuda, 367/4-speed/3.55s/ at 3650 pounds/me in it. In the back are 295/50-15 on 10x2 drums, also no proportioning. In the front are 235/60-14s on KH 4-pot calipers on something like 10.7 discs The master is a 15/16 Disc/drum; On the back are 15/16 w/c's the Booster is off a 73>75...

Hail-no on the copper, and I wouldn't run that soft-line either. If you make yur own, they aughtta be "double-flared."

Yeah I think your P-rod may be a lil short. It's really hard to tell from here tho. I can give you a definitive test tho. Just back the nuts off the M/C about a quarter inch and then slide a couple of 1/8th metal spacers in the gaps near the studs, then tighten the nuts and go for a spin up and...

Oh boy FIRSTLY > IF the brakes slow the car as you would expect, and > IF you can lock the front brakes to skid the tires at say 20 mph, and > IF the pedal does not sink on it's own, while you are holding a constant pressure on it, with the engine OFF, and the booster relaxed; > THEN the M/C is...

You said; "I have tried adjusting that rod in both directions but no help there as I discovered it only adjusts the height of the pedal. ." This is not exactly correct. Yes it adjusts the height but that is NOT it's primary function. The end you cannot see is supposed to be seated in the...

I like your description; If your brake-warning lamp is on, take a short-cut to the bottom Drum brakes are "self-energizing" and as the car slows down, you can always feel the car slowing down ever more quickly, so you have to lift off the pedal as the car comes to a stop. That is what you are...

NO! Oh wait, I read your post wrong; So by your description, it is plumbed correctly. The top of the Combination Valve is for the front brakes; it's just a splitter. Fluid comes in on the end and splits to the left and right calipers. . The bottom contains the Proportioning valve, and has a...

If you run your car without the front brakes working, but with the rear adjusters now working, then there is a good chance that after several hard stops, or backing up to finish the adjusting job, the self adjusters will tighten up the rear shoes excessively, and now you have a new problem...

no! If the rear brakes are locking up, it is because the fronts are not working, and you are stepping on the pedal way harder than should be required.

Well I miss-spoke a lil, I said "disconnect the booster" whereas I shouldda said "defeat the booster" I usually just clamp the line and pump the brake pedal until the vacuum is gone. I guess "dry" is the wrong word too. I realized after I posted it but was too lazy to edit it.

disconnect the booster, pump it dry, then roadtest again. IMO one of two things is happening; 1) the power valve inside the booster is broken, or 2) the pushrod is adjusted wrong. If the problem persists with the empty booster, look to the pushrod. If the problem goes away, replace the booster...

Step on the pedal; If it is not high and hard right away; Something is wrong Give it three rapid strokes and immediately keep the pedal down; If it is now high and hard; then something is not adjusted right. Could be the rear shoes, but could also be that the front pads are not properly fitted...

I'm a fan of the KH 4-pot system, plus you get to keep your small bolt pattern. But for your application, I'd probably leave the nines on there and just upgrade to 14" wheels. But then, I'm 70, recently retired, and time is something I got lots of, lol..

Bewy this time I disagree as to the exactness. You could be right. But "hitting the Board" , IMO points down the road a ways. I could be wrong. I guess we'll have to wait and see.

For a streeter, I use organic cuz my rotors hardly wear. I got 125000 miles and counting on mine. Those 1970 factory rotors should be good for another 20 years but, I admit that with 295s on the back and no proportioning, the rear shoes do most of the braking. And yes, I can, lock up the fronts...

NO NO NO NO. I have the KH calipers, and have tried every Mopar M/C from 7/8 to 1, and every one of them has worked perfectly. I liked the 15/16 best and so that was where I settled. I'll give you the short answer first; This same thing can happen anytime the PowerPiston hits the end of the...

NOT normal IDK yet what the problem is but am mulling it over.

Twenty years from now, you will have forgotten all about this trouble; I know I have .

Make sure your stinking compensating ports are working! If your pushrod is too long, preventing the ports from opening on the back stroke, lol, yur gonna be there for a very very long time. Then; Make sure your M/C is plumbed correctly; If a Mopar unit; the front reservoir goes to the rear...

Drums are said to be self-energizing. That is to say, as the car slows down, you gotta relax the pressure on the pedal, else the car will slow down faster than you had anticipated. Discs are not like that. It always requires more pedal pressure to slow down faster. Because of this perceived...

If all else fails, you can modify your pedal ratio You still running the 9inch drums all round? BTW, nice car

no sir, my days of owning slanty cars is long over. But, if you remove your air-cleaner housing, you might just find an appropriate nipple sticking out somewhere, or at least a place to put one. The nipple you mentioned is called IIRC, a Vacuum Tree. I have seen them with one, two, three and...

DO NOT connect the booster to just one intake runner. The booster needs to be connected to a reasonably constant vacuum source and the best place to get that is from the plenum, usually right under the carb. If you connect it to just one runner, chances are very good that your engine will...

You can run any M/C that fits. If the reservoirs are same-sized, then keep an eye on the liquid levels. and Be sure that whatever one you use, that there is no hold-back valve in the line to the discs.

Is there an argument in that statement? I'm just telling you what needs to be. Early just means before they invented the spring cup energizers for the slaves.

The only difference between them is the sizes of the reservoirs, and early all-drum M/Cs had little hold-back valves in the ports to keep a lil pressure in the lines to prevent seepage of the slave cups. If you have discs on the front, you have to remove that valve, to prevent the pads from...

Yes I have heard that, here of FABO, a few times Since you are in France< You might try the biggest M/C in your parts bag, and then re-engineer your Pedal-ratio. Looking at those calipers, I would suspect the calipers are flexing due to insufficient mass. BTW I have a factory KH 4-piston kit on...

AFAIK the pedal is supposed to hit a rubber up-stop at the top of it's stroke but I don't see it in your pic. If it was mine, I'd just fabricate a new up-stop, and adjust the M/C length to match and make sure the compensating port is still open. Then If I felt the need, I would maybe raise the...