Search results for query: *

Are you sure you're hitting the sleeve and its not that the bushing are a little thick?

more pics please

I used Polygraphite Bushings and the grease came with the kit but you don't need it.

I'll check to see if I have another set in the shed.

George, I just replaced my suspension with PST torsions and strut rods Here's a picture of the original setup with the bushing. Btw PST sells em.

I was going to suggest using the old setup as a baseline but that's not going to work for you.

Depends on wat you want to pay. PST sells repops. There are a few for sale on the forum but they'll need to be cleaned up

Thanks! Great info, you guys have given us a lot to consider. Since I'm working with the PST 1.03s and the stock front sway I'll start there and try to come up with a combo that works well.

Good Point. I have a set of stock torsion bars up front at the moment but recently landed a pair of PST 1.03's. Do you have a leaf recommendation based on the upgraded torsion bars? thx.

I'm in the same boat. subscribed

Awesome! Looking forward to seeing the pics. AlV

If it is not damaged just keep it and replace the rest. The rebuild kit is 20 bucks. If it is damaged and truely needs to be replaced, use a press and heat that is the only thing that worked for me I also recommend replacing the upper and lower bearings.

I vote keep power and rebuild the unit. If you want to do a stock rebuild check out my first run at one. I walk through it for the most part. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970191288&postcount=18

Tighten your pivot bolts last specifically after you get proper ride height. The rest can be torqued to spec.

yes, If my memory serves me correctly, crack loose the lock nut and use a screw driver to set the lash. Use very small adjustments, right tight left loose. AlV

My understanding is that the bars are built with a certain amount of twist into them. In this case the twist is 20*, meaning if you lay the bar on a flat surface and look down its length, placing the hexagonal end closest to you on a flat side you will see that the hexagonal end furthest from...

This ^^^ I fought with that cross pin wit the column out of the car I used heat and a vice. IMHO, removing the column is the most direct approach. Once you have it out you can inspect, clean and replace whichever pieces need attention. You'll also be able to pull the shaft from the bottom...

Factory manual says measure from the pivot of the LCA to the ground (they presume you have level workplace) and the lowest part of the LCA (by the steering knuckle) to the ground. Subtract the knuckle measurement from the pivot measurement and that is your ride height.

My approach: If you're rebuilding the front with stock bars make sure the LCA pivot shafts are not torqued. Jack up the car and Let the LCA's hang. Back out the adjusting bolt so they have no tension then rotate the adjusting lever as far down to the adjusting bolt as you can, then install the...

I used the two piece with the sleeves also.

Where were you 4 months ago when I was doing my front end lol!

This is what i did ^^^ then used cold Gel to weld it back

Thank you for making this available to us Jim. The video is well done and very informative. you make it look easy. :)

There are a couple of used K frames for sale on this site. Might be an affordable option. AlV

We now have two Saginaw pumps to choose from. One is referred to as the oval neck unit and as I understand it was used from 69-72 and the other is referred to as the box style unit and t was used from 69 - 74. Does anyone know if both units perform equally? If one unit is better than the...

In the last pictures you can see that I had to use the earlier brackets on my 69 water pump. Either of the Saginaw pumps can be used with either bracket setup (They are interchangeable from that perspective). I used the 69 Stock Crank/water pump/steering pump pulleys (all three can be seen in...

I have a 69 340 and this is what I found (see more on my build thread) ----- Getting there... We reviewed a few threads that went into this in great detail on pump/pulley/bracket combos and we were glad that we weren't the only folks having trouble figuring out the combos. I think we have...

Is there a difference in performance between the two Saginaw pump styles? For instance is there a benefit if one Chose the 70's Box style or the 68 69 oval style?

AJ, I definitely want to stay with the Saginaw for the reasons you point out and from what I've read. But If I can't get the It hung I will go with what works for now. It seems like I just need the two Saginaw brackets for the Iron bodied water pump.

Thanks for the info Steve. Having the pictures for reference help a lot. At a glance the federal and oval Saginaw look similar when mounted. Bobscuda67, i've been late to the party more than once. lol