steering center link base line

[diymirage]

hey friends


while I have the motor out I decided to replace the tie rod ends
is there "pre-set" I can shoot for?

I'm not sure if I trust the way the steering linkage was set up to begin with (I know I fiddled with it some myself)

so, any tips on how to assemble the whole thing and have it be close when it goes in?

 

[diymirage]

anyone?

 

[AlV]

I was going to suggest using the old setup as a baseline but that's not going to work for you.

 

[diymirage]

I considered it, but that would be a shot in the dark
I'm just looking for a baseline here
just because it is easier to do the rough adjustment on the bench and then dial it in with the linkage installed

 

[67Dart273]

The only thing you can change is toe and steering wheel center. I would try and unbolt the tie rods one side at a time and then try and adjust the new assy so it sits back in. yes you will have to set the toe and center, but it should come "close."

 

[diymirage]

thanks for the advise 67dart273

the issue is, (well, not really an issue) but, I pulled the center link to install the engine
and while I have it apart I would like to change out the tie rod ends

once that new engine goes in I think it will be important that the steering is set up properly, since it should be a little bit more powerfull than what was in there



I understand I can measure where the ends are now and screw the new ones in close, but I'm not sure if the old ones are in the right spot

 

[67Dart273]

If you changed the position (length) of the old ones, or don't know which side they fit, you are pretty much going to just have to guess and then reset toe. This is NOT a big deal. "As an old man" I do so on mine

You need to "rig" a way to scribe the tires. you need a stable platform like a jig out of 2x4's with a screw / nail to scratch the tires. Might be easiest to use a couple pieces of tape across the tire from each other.

Jack the tire off ground, under the lower arm. With your nail / jig, scratch a mark on a place on the tire, turn it 1/2 turn, and make another mark. Adjust the tire so these are "level," and set it back down. Repeat, other side.

You need two people and a tape. Simply measure front, and rear, and subtract difference. Drive the car a short distance. "Jiggle" the adjustment, one side in, other side out, "same amount" to center the steering wheel. RESET (check) toe one last time.

Yeh. It might take you all morning. If you do it right, it's as accurate as any shop

I believe Ron (cracked back) does his a bit different. use some blocks, beer cans, whatever. Put them down outside the tires, and lay a straight piece, scrap steel, 2x4, etc, on top of the cans / blocks so they are up against the tire, on each side. Measure between them. You want them high enough to be above the "bulge" at the bottom.