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Are you running pump gas? Pump gas is really sooty so that might explain the sooty color. If you're running race gas then I'd say you're too rich. You kind of need to know the fuel is in order to read the plugs. In the same engine gas will look different than pump gas which looks different from...

Depends on the track and the day of the week. I have a buddy who had a 600 hp big block in his street Duster. It would run 10.90 at the track on street tires with a full interior and full exhaust system. He was able to race most of the summer until a guy he beat in a grudge match complained to...

One cool thing about that setup was that you could changed the cam timing without disturbing the oil pan seal, or removing the motor plate. Just remove the damper then pull the front cover off. The engine was held by two bolts that would support it while the water pump was removed. The motor...

I designed it and made a few of them. They were very, very cool, but kind of expensive so it took a long time to sell them. I think there might be about 5 of them floating around in the Mopar world but I've never seen one of them on an engine or for sale. Not sure what happened to them.

This is what you need, billet timing chain cover that gets rid of that cross over.

They aren't inlets and outlets. Those are two inlets. It doesn't really matter if the water flows back and forth between them. Cold water goes into the block on both sides, flow thru the block, up into the heads and out the intake manifold where the thermostat housing is.

I don't think it matters much if you are using an electric water pump since that entire chamber is for cold water. The hot water exits the engine from the intake manifold. You can buy the block plate from Meziere if you're worried about it but it will space things out another 1/4 inch or so...

The big problem with computer programs is that most of them use head flow data to predict power output. But Kaase, as well as others, have proven that head flow (as measured on current flow benches) doesn't equal power output. Kaase has some great discussions about how his Hemi heads make a lot...

Power output depends on the cylinder heads and there is rarely enough information for any computer program to get close. We use PipeMax and it can get close, but only if you know the VE. And nobody really knows the VE until after the engine is run on the dyno so that kind of makes the program...

I think you should double check everything since the cam button is designed to give the proper clearance with an 0.031 gasket. Do you have the plug installed in the back of the block? Is the oil pump shaft installed? Is the cam button properly assembled? All surfaces clean? Timing cover torqued...

65 cubic inches?

I don't sell shims, we usually adjust end play buy using different timing chain cover gaskets. Superformance used to sell a bunch of different gaskets so that was the easy way. I've never run into one that needed that thick of a shim but if that is what you need then take a look at McMaster...

I like using 7/16 pushrods if they fit. Not so sure they'll fit on a TF head without grinding though. A 3/8 pushrod should fit. The dual taper is nice but expensive. Another option is the Smith Bros or Manton style where the pushrod body is straight but then they use long ends with a taper that...

Manton is good for pushrods, so is Smith Bros. I have about $3000 worth of used pushrods in the cabinet. I reuse them when possible or else I send them to Smith Bros to but cut to length and have new ends put on. Saves a lot of money if you can reuse existing pushrods.

Should be good for roughly 600 power and 600 torque. We do a fair number of 505 big block with the 240 heads and they always make great power and torque. Really nice beasts for the street.

Correct, you'll most likely need to find Torx drive bolts that have a round head. Same kind of bolts that Jesel uses in some of their kits. Sometimes you can find an ARP bolt that will fit but usually the flange is too big. If you have a lathe you can turn down the ARP bolts to fit. We typically...

At least you'll be able to make them work with thinner shims. If you buy the Comp rocker arms the heads need to be machined. We machine most of the Trick Flow heads for side clearance. Trick Flow went a little crazy adding material to the stands and a lot of rocker arms rub or stick in between...

Yes, Yakima is the home track for that car. His brother runs a '56 Chevy with a 540 inch all aluminum Dart motor. I've tuned the Holley EFI systems in both cars.

Be sure to take a serious look at the driveshaft. Last car I swapped over to a PG required a carbon fiber driveshaft due to the extra length. Nobody could make an aluminum or steel driveshaft that was safe, had to be carbon fiber. That added a bunch of cost to the swap!

Yeah, I don't expect much power increase since I had really good luck with the EZ heads on my old 514. That engine made 900 hp and I've never had a 440-1 head engine on the dyno that has made that much power. But, that could be a corner case. The 514 punched way above its weight for some unknown...

Started off with a 727 transmission but was switched over to a Powerglide after the first season. Runs a little more consistent with the PG.

Ran a 572 all aluminum big block on the dyno a while back. Drag race engine, Indy block, Indy EZ heads, roller cam, Wilson ported intake, EFI port injection with big 4500 flange throttle body. Nice engine, lots of good parts including dry sump oiling. Made 860 hp at 7000 rpm. Runs low 9's in...

Got it

Nice looking parts. Thanks for buying one of my billet covers. Those have been a popular item for many years. Compression ratio about 12.5 with those flat top pistons and uncut heads? I'll guess 750 hp at 6800 rpm with a cast intake, but that combo can make more power with some tweaks. You...

The Indy 400-3 is a MW port intake. The Mopar M1 4500 is a standard port intake. The Trick Flow and Victor intakes are std port and 4150. I dyno tested the 400-3 and a Mopar M1 4500 on my 470 dyno mule. Both intakes were competition ported by Wilson. The Indy made more peak power which wasn't a...

I had Wilson do the EFI conversion on the Trick Flow intake for my low deck 512. They did a super nice job with it.

Just depends on how much power you are trying to make. The Trick Flow intake is really good up to about 700 hp. After that you'll need to get it ported. If you are shooting for 750+ hp then I'd suggest a Dominator flange intake. The Indy 400-3 is a decent starting point or the Mopar M1 4500...

You need to go talk to guys who are currently racing that type of car and pick their brains on how to build the car. I doubt that you'll find any serious racer recommending a Dana 60 for that type of car. You can also call a few chassis shops to talk about building a car like that and see what...

That is probably true. The guys I know running that kind of power use a braced Ford 9 inch and run 3.89 gears with a spool and big tires. Those are 8 second door slammers running 150+ mph. A Dana 60 typically isn't a good choice in a car like that since there isn't enough space to work on the...

At that power level you might want to get some professional advice. My guess is that the advice you get will be to go with a fab housing and a 9 inch or even 9.5 inch Ford type rear end. I'm not sure where the power limit is on the S60 but you don't find them under big power cars. I think it...