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MAD search was perfect. Thank you. Now, on to finish gauges, so I can head to the supercharger build.

Stock Ammeter was fine, but I am replacing all the gauges in the cluster with aftermarket. I am doing something odd under hood, and I want the reliability and visibility of normal gauges and not idiot lights.

When going with aftermarket gauges, what needs to be done to the stock gauge harness? I thought I read that the ammeter wires needed to be connected, but I couldn't remember exactly. Adding aftermarket gauges to stock cluster.

Taylor has a good breakdown in their book on the length of each wire, if you prefer the pre-assembled versions. It would not be hard to find a set that has the wires very close to your desired dimensions. I got 6 years out of my last set, daily driver with 208K miles.

Dan, I admittedly have not looked at your links yet, but can you comment on these bulbs made by Putco? Does the sq cm requirements have to be facing out, or can these with side LED work...

I cannot speak on the definitive break, but many of the new cars have gone from a standard OBD2 to a "can bus" system. In short, the electrial runs along a primary wire, and sends its signal to the computer via pulses, instead of each component having its own wire, something to that effect...

Thanks 63VALIANT*KISS I bought a parts store "universal coolant overflow bottle" and universal pump last night and put it on. Washers work great! I had the confidence to drive it in to work this AM! WAHOOO!

Could I bother you to post part numbers from each place>? I need to get mine working. Melting snow makes for undriveable Dart!

I would go back over grounds, and quadruple check them. Heat in wires is usually a result of resistance, so problems such as the corroded connections that DGC333 suggested, poor grounds, or too small gauge of wire, or wire that is very aged and brittle, can cause the stuff you are describing.

I am not totally sure, but 95% that MSD stuff is made by Taylor. The last time the rep was in he alluded to it mentioning that Taylor was making another brands wires or them, and the "other brand" sold red and black and was in the ignition market....

I personally use only Taylor. Premium materials, made in Kansas City.

Neutral safety switch for sure. I do not know where it's routed, I would have to look, but I guarantee that is the problem.

I would not worry too much. After reading that post, between his sarcastic, antagonistic attitude, random diatribes, and overall piss poor attitude, I consider your remarks to be appropriate. Hell, I here by commend you for actions!!!:salute:

Sounds like there might be another fuseable link some where. Start with good test light. If you have power at the starter relay, then I would start chasing from there. To my memory, it should run to fuse box. After that.... not sure. I know that the ammeters have a history of causing...