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What material did you use for the face?

I guess I will cut up the stocker.

Those are both close, but they already have holes in them. The one I am thinking of was the insert only, and it was solid, so you could mount the gauges where you wanted them....

I remember there was a vendor that offered a molded plastic gauge insert / cluster / panel / dash for the A bodies. It was for those that were going with aftermarket gauges. With all the different terms for this part, I can't seem to track it down in search, or the google. Can someone direct me?

Another possible solution http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/misc/18.html

I have done several. My opinion: Yes it can be done. I recommend a base coat clear coat system, with several layers of clear. Why? Invariably despite your best efforts, you will get dust, dirt, and bugs in the paint. Several coats of clear allow you to wet sand it smooth, and get a...

I have GOOD NEWS! The owner of www.paintforcars.com called me personally, to make amends for the problems from 2 years ago! I started a positive thread. I am ver satisfied with the efforts to resolve the situation! http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1252729#post1252729

I got an interesting call today. The owner of www.paintforcars.com called me today. He apologized profusely for the for the bad experience from 2 years ago. He made it very clear that is not how his wants is business run or represented. I am impressed that the owner would reach out after...

I will be honest, it can't be all that much. The substructure is aluminum, the top is steel. Unless you can pick them up for a song, I wouldn't knock your self out tracking them down or spend a fortune on them.

I agree with 1968... Single stage metallic doesn't like too much of type of thing, as the metallic can move around and be uneven. Fix it by hand, wet sand with 1500-2000 grit paper, etc. All of 1968FormulaS340's questions need to be answered for an accurate answer.

I stripped a 1970 Challenger to bare metal using a Harbor Freight grinder/polisher and 6 packages of their velcro sand paper. Time was 8 hours. The Dual Action portion of a DA is working against you here. It is great for more even sanding and surface prep, but what you are trying to do is...

I recently stripped my 1970 Challenger, to bare metal. I used a 30.00 Harbor Freight grinder, about 25 bucks in their velcro sand paper, and 8 hours, to strip 95% of the car to bare metal. I followed with lacquer primer (going in garage, not weather proof). I added a set of "mickey mouse" ear...

www.suicidedoors.com The Thorbecke bros know what it takes for suicide doors. Their focus is mini trucks, but have good kits, and like Super T said, get the best kit you can. Welding will be required! Dang, now I am thinking about them for my truck.

I personally like the candy red / brandy wine color of the Lexus listed above.

Bummer, title made me think it was the Dart. I was looking forward to that. The C body is ok too. :) It looks great!

Bear in mind, the primary cause of the crack, is worn door hinges. If the hinges are not addressed, the area will continue to crack.

Who we, that is a bit rich for me, but thanks for the link. They may have some other stuff I can use.

That sounds right. Well, it appears there are several options. The Dynamic looks good, but may try the plate with screws first. I guess I could always make that plate, and weld it instead of screw it, grind and paint? That way it would have substantially more strength in that area? Thoughts?

The article I have in my head is a little different, they cut a larger square out and used thicker metal, but the Moparts link might work well too. Mine is rusting around the entire raised area, not just the the circular center pin like the MoparMuscle article.

I remember seeing in a magazine at some point a how to on repairing the rust around the striker. My driver's side is weak, and needs help. Does anyone remember the magazine article, or have some general repair directions?

While understanding being broke, a polisher from the likes of Harbor Freight is cheap. If nothing else, it can be done by hand, but the polisher will yield better results. I use Meguiar's. Start with polish, follow with glaze, then wax. Ultra Fine steel wool will remove minor surface rust...

www.paintforcars.com Granted I had a hiccup with them in the past, they resolved the problem, and you can get lacquer at 79-85 a gallon. Their good base coat / clear coat is under 200 bucks for color, clear and activators.

Paint for cars . com has single or bc/cc paint very cheap. If done right, you could present it as "done" and then in 2-3 years when you want the Foose version, you could say you "changed your mind"

My 76 Dart Lite has holes in the hood, where there was an emblem, or trim or ? from the factory. Does anyone have a picture of this piece? Does anyone have a spare?

:worthles:

Mine are the 4 separate rings. Price for those is less then what I will have in chmicals to spray the whole car, yeow. Maybe next spring. ANYONE got a nice set of OE's lying around?

They look the same to me....Purty. Can anyone confirm? I would think a resto house would list them for 76 if they fit 76...

Mine are pitted. I can find lenses, but bezels? Any idea what it costs to have a set "restored"?

On a side note, I will post pictures of the Dart in the flat black shortly. I am impressed by how far their Hot Rod primer went. I laid 4 coats and still have 1 1/3 gallons out of 2 left. We are re-installing bumpers and grille, taillights, etc tonight.

Can a moderator remove the thumbs down? I have had several rounds of correspondence, and a new paint chart is on the way. They have offered a discount on my future business, and since they made good, I intend to give them another shot. I am satisfied with their attempts to keep me as a customer.