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I just listened to that clip 10+ times. Sounds like satan clearing his throat.

What was the cost on that build if you dont mind me asking? I'm interested in a similar build sometime in the next year. No circle track or racing action, for an original 66' Fury VIP. I'd like to keep a stock appearance of the engine and car. TIA Bad Shrimp

Just skimmed through it. They use the term "dash line". All you have to do is create a new "dash line" thats within 2" of the hood scoop etc. I would think the wording "dash line" would indicate the height of the "majority" of dashboard/dashpad, so putting on a Dixie style tach covered with...

This may be no help......but with that said....... Screw the state! wait hold on,,,,yup Screw the state! If it ends up being too high, modify the dashpad so the dash pad is higher. You could remove the dash pad....cut a new thicker dash pad shape from foam and have it covered with vinyl...

kk took a stab at it.....we'll see where the goat takes me. Bad Shrimp

Been surfin' net on and off today......ran accross this and I may have come up with somethin' else. Power brakes.............7" booster mounted to bracket that raises everything........ http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1965-1970-Mopar-Brake-Booster-Bracket,8901.html they say this: This...

Mopar King, I noticed my r/b engine is not centered among the engine compartment. Which gives me another inch or 2 between the valve cover and M/C. Also seems like my block sits lower than yours. Took me a bit to see the differences there.

Neat, keep the pics comin'. I'm still addressing that issue on mine too. I have most/all of the parts that I need. I just havent had the time.....been blastin' out the hours at work instead of taking time off to work on the Scamp. Another month or two and I should have some pics showing...

I'm pretty newb when it comes to mopars. With that said, I dont think you'll find any stock max wedge heads for a reasonable price. Aluminum max wedge heads would prolly be cheaper. I'd surf summitracing for pistons......seems like there is lots of different piston weights available too.

love the vid.........I get tired of seeing video's with 2 min. of staging and 11 seconds of action.........great meat and potatoes vid. :cheers:

Now that the thread has mentioned cast vs. forged cranks.......is there an obvious way to tell which one I have with the oil pan off? Or does crank have to be removed to tell? thanks in advance Bad Shrimp

I just swapped out old pan for new one.......I had to drop the steering link like was already mentioned. If you have skinny arms you wont need to raise the engine. If you dont have skinny arms, you'll need to raise engine.

I went with this Pan http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-31580/ Windage tray http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-32000/ Oil Pickup http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-18328/ I have installed them, everything works great......however. Everything needed minor...

That is trick!:salut:

KK, just remembered why I purchased the combo that I did,,,,,,,,BFGoodrich 215/70/14 Radial T/A tires are 25.90 in diameter.......VS. Nitto Invo 225/45/17 which is 24.96 in diameter. I would say that the 17 being 1" less in diameter is part of what makes it work as well as or better than the...

I'll take some pics, tires only rub when turning lock to lock.

badshrimp are you planning on running the big brakes with 17s and fenderwell headers? Yah, already rockin' the new rubbers with fenderwells and small brakes,,,,,, American Racing T70R wheels with Nitto Invo 255/50/17 in back and 225/45/17 in front. Seems like great tire so...

****, already ordered other one lol, might send it back.

I would have to assume 17" rim minimum. I'll see when I recieve them. Ordered teh brakes today. I'll post a few pics of his gear, wonder if n e 1 else has installed Dr. Diff's 13" front kit.

I punched in your info into "cam-quest" and the dyno numbers you posted look similar after drivetrain % loss. The 440 in my Scamp prolly has about the same horsepower yours does, maybe a lil' less than yours, and its quickly getting to rebuild time. Motor runs great, just seems like not...

I'm gonna take the plunge on this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-9439/ Should be able to attach brake lines to either side of MC. I'll give a report in a few weeks. Going to order Dr. Diff's front 13" disk kit too most likely. Bad Shrimp

(2) questions..........I currently have zero need to know,,,,just trying to learn a little mo etc........anyhow How much air do my/their/them/your heads need to flow to actually make use of or need dual 4bbl carbs? Once my/their/them/your heads are flowing that amount is their a benefit of...

UPDATE: Thread is getting old but its taken me since Christmas to get everything squared away and get back on the road. Upon teardown I encountered a domino effect of issues that I had to address surounding the rear-end (axles, disk brake kit, thrust button, 35 year old bearings etc.)...

Huh me? Was a separate discussion from master cylinders and brake lines. Sorry to hi-jack thread with my postscript as I figured starting my sentence with "P.S. 440OutLawDart" was good enough lmao. Bad Shrimp

Wilwood makes one too that exits on passenger side of MC. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wilwood-Aluminum-Tandem-Master-Cylinder-260-9439-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem564385c94bQQitemZ370500028747QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories About $200,,,,,,,,, a bit cheaper than the...

I have the same clearance problems. I havent had a problem yet. I'd rather find a solution before something shitty happens though. Mancini and Summit sell a SSBC brand MC for $377 that will accept lines to either side of MC. If anyone finds a solution that works, post sum pics :bounce...

Vacuum leak will effect the whole rpm band, idle+ depending on how bad the leak is.

I have limited knowledge, but heres my 2 cents. If it runs a lil rich on a 383 I would expect it to run rich on a 440. You could unscrew the idle mixture screws since the idle curcuit is open all the time. Could also increase squirter/shooter size. That would give it more gas without...

Just got rear diff back. Ran into the green bearing/aftermarket axle/thrust block w/ cone type SG issue. Found out the ring gear/pinion (excellent shape), bearings, and pinion seal are all original 1971 lol. Got the wheel stud/lug nut issue sorted finally. Will post again soon.

Its going to be a lil' while before drive test, I remembered everything except matching lug nuts and wheel studs for the axles.........slight issue lol.