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Those work great. I use mine a lot for many different tasks.

Yep, 7 1/4 BBP is what it should be. Now on a different note, one of these days you will notice the front wheels stick out further than the rear when looking from the rear forward, lol. Many moons ago I never noticed, or if I did I didn't remember it. Fixed that though when I dropped a B...

Have you actually measured the pattern on the axle? FWIW, my 74 Dart Sport came with factory disc and a BBP 7 1/4.

It should.

How are you determining that?

It is, slightly. At least comparing my Dart Sport with the wife's Mercury Comet.

Is it a 7 1/4? I have had many over the years that would clunk bad going from drive to reverse, if your idle is a little high it gets worse, lol, I only had one fall apart and required changing. But do check u joints, especially a bad front joint, that can make life interesting if it lets go...

Good catch, I missed the year.

Here is an old article from Hot Rod, they put one in a Dart. You will need the proper backspace wheels. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-0404-8-3-4-rear-axle-housing-swap/

Make one. I used a piece of 3/4 square tubing, marked and drilled the spots where it lines up with the holes and put bolts in there with a nut on the other side. You will need a dial indicator to set backlash, you'll also need it when you install the axles to set end play. As far as the...

It isn't stamped on the ring gear? Sounds more like a Chevy gear ratio.

I think I get what your saying, once the cap is seated in the yoke the snap rings should center it and the cap fitting snugly into the yoke will not allow it to move once you tighten the strap bolts...........if that makes sense. A pic would be handy of what you are seeing.

2:45 to 1 open diff.

Second option, can you raise the cooler in the mount using some spacers. It looks like a good spot.

Can you shim up the side that sits on the frame connector?

Put some grease on the spring side so that little bugger don't pop off the seal. And yes, there is a machined ridge that they butt up to.

Can't help with where to get one, but on the placement, make sure to offset it enough so the ring gear doesn't hit it while keeping it as close to the bottom as possible.

Consider it done, I just moved it for ya.

Uh, yeah, I paid 100 bucks each for the last 2 I bought and they were bare housings. I moved the perches in, rebuilt the entire rear, swapped in a used clutch type suregrip and new 3:55's, total was around 600 bucks, but that was 8 years ago. The B body rear brought my rear tires out to match...

That is for a pinion snubber, there is a rubber bumper that goes on the end, and when the suspension wraps up under power it hits the underside of the car which helps "support" the rear suspension from twisting up. If you aren't pushing a ton of horsepower you likely won't need it.

It starts to rotate at 18-19 and at 20 it jumps up with a clunk. I would, at the minimum, check the pinion nut/yoke like Rob said.

Did anyone else see the pinion jump up sorta when first put into gear.....................or am I losin' it. 20 second mark.

One would think so. Mine did horribly until I did some figure 8s.

If you get a chance do the coast thing again in neutral first and see if it does it. How long ago was it rebuilt? Have you checked the diff fluid? Something inexpensive you could try, is to put some friction modifier in the diff. Not gear oil with modifier in it, but straight modifier. I...

I might look at the suregrip. Is is clutch or cone?

If it's a cone type it has a thrust block in it and can only come out by taking the unit apart to remove it.

If you have a clutch style suregrip then those buttons are needed with the OEM tappered bearings.

Banjo type rear ends were introduced in '57. That should interchange just fine. I believe there was some thrust block variations in non suregrip units prior to 64. This is probably from one of the early units that had tapered axles. Carrier casting numbers: 1820657 (1957-1964)

Yeah, they don't turn easy, but they do turn independently. Glad you got it figured.

Should be able to rotate them no problem. The sure grip is meant to 'slip' under normal conditions, that's why the need for friction modifier. If you jack up one side, put the trans in neutral, will the one wheel spin?