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I'm going with the heavier oil.. I have a 74 teen in my DS, it has 85000 on the clock and still kicks the pressure up to around 70 upon start up. I use 10w30

Is it a felt washer type thing? If so that goes over the crank snout after you get the timing cover on and befor the balancer. I believe it is to keep grit and dirt from getting to the seal

I did the same with my oil pan for the 360 on the stand, I still need to put a hole in the baffle for the dipstick. Here is a template that can be printed an transferred to a piece of thin cardboard(I used a cereal box.

My 74 teener didn't have them when I did a cam and spring swap

Video once it's up and running.

Agreed. I bought an 86 Dodge pickup from my FIL, he religiously used QS, the inside of that engine was pure gunk.

As long as it is only a couple inches, put a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan, use a wide enough piece so it extends out to the edges of the pan,, and then place the jack under the piece of wood. Be sure everything is disconnected/loosened so it will lift easily. That is what I did when I did...

Do you have a PCV valve installed?

If I were a buyer, a date stamped video, list of work done accompanied by receipts. If it was done at a shop I might follow up with them......maybe. I would also take along my little scope that connects to my smartphone and ask for a couple plugs to be pulled so I could look at the chambers.

Can't say for sure that's it, but the symptoms align, lol.

I have had the same problem as you are describing on 2 different vehicles. Mine was sporadic, in that I might drive 5 miles and it would quit, let it sit for a bit and it would fire right back up and it may run 20 miles before doing it again. .008 on the air gap with a NON MAGNETIC feeler...

Distributor, electronic I assume (no points). If so, it could be the pickup coil in the distributor. When replacing, you will need a brass (non magnetic) feeler gauge to set the air gap. Welcome to the site.

I ran one on my teener with a thermoquad for a couple years, it ran great.

I run the Summit headers and have roughly 7 inches of clearance, stock ride height on a 74 Dart Sport. I do slow down for speed bumps, but other than that I haven't scraped anything yet.

Backfiring through the carb or popping in the exhaust?

Sounds like you will need to pull that end and check the float. Either it's stuck, or it has a pin hole, filled up and sunk.

I would get that ^^^ corrected first.

Post a wanted ad here: Cars and Mopar Parts Wanted My guess is you can find everything you need. Be sure and look at the rules for posting in that section.

Quit worrying about it, lol. Roll with the punches. If it were me I would hang the headers from the inner fender with some wire, undo the cross link and slide it through the header and leave it unhooked on the driver side. Drop the engine in and get it lined up and loosely bolted. Once it's...

I need to get my heads finished.

There is a notch on one end of each shaft. That notch needs to be forward toward core support and facing down on the driver side. The notch needs to be in the rear toward the firewall and facing down on the passenger side. Check there and report back.

Did you just put this together? If so, do you have the rocker shafts oriented correctly?

I would, if'n they aren't oriented correctly you will be a bit dry on the top, lol.

This^^^.

Doing it now.

THIS ^^^.

I mean have those been messed with since you got it.

Head gaskets? Intake?

Must have gone up, I paid 18 bucks for mine.

Always best to measure, IMO. Summit has the kit fairly reasonable, that's where I got mine.