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Check your lower hose, maybe it's collapsing some at higher speeds, got a spring it? Just something easy to rule out.

Hmm...of hand I'd say try a spacer to get that fan closer to the rad and re-try the factory shroud. Just seems like it's not sucking air through. If you hold a shop towel infrint of the grill does it pull it in and stick? Should...mine does with my clutch fan and no shroud!

To me it looks like the shroud only allowing the fan to pull air from that portion of which is shrouded. Your corners aren't getting pull through? A shroud should also only cover have the width of the fan blades ideally. I'd pull the shroud off and test it. Better? Worse? Same? Then go from...

Couple things just food for thought but sounds like your car is in pretty good shape...I agree. Run a 180 stat. Ditch the 160. Engine efficiency/ thermal efficiency is what it's about. Some other ideas... - swap to Evans waterless coolant Read here - http://www.evanscooling.com/ - maybe try a...

Yes! Try that and checking your fuel line routing. I don't think a fan is the answer. Try a phenolic spacer yet? Or even the cheapo Eddy cardboard one? Both have helped me in the past with same issue.

Just a rubber cap with a hose clamp....done. They sell a pack of diff size black rubber caps at your fav local parts store. Never did care for the looped hose from the water pump to the intake. Looks cluttered and not sure why you would do it anyway. Anyone say if this serves a functional...

When you get your shroud on, make sure you space your fan so that the blades are just about 1/2 way inside the shroud...1/2 way outside. I expect this will help as mentioned. A new cap never hurts either if they old one looks suspect and you dont know when it was last replaced. 16lb I believe is...

It'll be fine...if it doesnt keep it stable I'll be surprised and your issue may lay elsewhere. IMO- Run a 180 t-stat. Dont be duped into a 160, they are often times used under premonition that they will help keep an engine that much cooler...which usually arises when you think you "need" it to...

Had the std one on my car...same setup. Mag Air-Gap and LA style timing cover and water pump. It was kinked a little at the "bend" on the top but never had any trouble with it at all...

Does it stabilize at 210 after 1/2hr? So your slowly building temp to 210? I'd say that if you dont have a shroud, try that....otherwise your engine fan is really just blowing hot air around the engine compartment. Is your elec. fan a pusher or puller? Mounted on the outside or inside of your...

Curious how well this rad works too... Seabee - Champion radiators are looking better and better to me each day for the Scamp...3 row, no epoxy, all welded 22" for $220! Check the link...there are more models available...

http://www.championradiators.com/ These guys have real reasonable prices on alluminum radiators....and they are direct fit.

One way to test if your clutch is toast (I've heard) is to watch while someone else shuts down the car. If it keeps spinning at all after the motor is off...its bad. If it stops right when it should...it's ok. Also, a 195 is a little bit of a hot stat (IMO). I'd test your clutch to make sure...

As they say...the proof will be in the puddin'. When one of these guys gets stuck in traffic on a 90 degree day for 1/2hr or better and it stays cool or heats up...but for the $ it's probably not a bad buy, even if it's a downflow. I'm sure w/ a stock smallblock it's fine...

Did your shop flow test it? It should flow at least 20-22 gpm or more. Any good shop starts with that before quoting you $475+ for a recore job right off the bat. I had mine checked, it flowed 35gpm and a recore was $275...but it didnt need it. They even welded up a seam for me that was leaking...

I'd get it recored to a 3 core...or get a Mancini alluminum unit. That's what I bought, yet to be installed. You can then get some black radiator paint and spray it. It will look as stock as possible and be a nice alluminum unit. Either way would probably work. I can attest the custom built...

Is your electric fan a pusher or puller? I'm assuming it's a pusher if it's mounted in front of your radiator right now? You can reverse the polarity on some fans and mount it on the engine side and use it as a puller. That's the way my Black Magic fan was anyway. Not sure what you have but it's...

Have it flow checked. That will tell you alot. Just looking at it move isnt going to tell you much I dont think. It worries me that your shop didnt flow test it first and foremost before rebuilding it! If you can, be there when they do it and see for yourself. If it's flowing less than 20-22gpm...

Does it stay rock steady at 220? Even in traffic? Or does it heat up if sitting around... Check your fan clutch, is it operating correctly? Maybe it's new, I dont think you said one way or the other. What is your radiator flowing in gpm? Any good shop will flow test it when they rebuild it...

Just an FYI - I dont want to hyjack the thread but I figured I'd post my latest results. Basically I got an old OEM 22" shroud for free that was cracked at the top. I glued it back together. Go my rad flow tested (35gpm) and installed a 180 t-stat (replaced the 195 that was in there). Problem...

Man this is a great thread. I'm having the EXACT same issue with my Dart. It starts and heats up normal, will start to raise in traffic, then cool down once moving but at a certain point (220-230) for any length of time it cant recover. I've tried everything too and no help except the clutch...

Year One's got replacement style rad's that look stock, but they are all 3 row. They are in the $300 range... Just an FYI - DeGood's radiator here in Kalamazoo did a friend of mines OEM 22" recore to a 3 row for $240. $400 seems a little steep, even for a 26".

I've got the same issue. After a drive and warm up I get a top seam leak and a thin line runs down the top seam. I too have a new cap (16lb) and still get it. My rad is a cheapo parts store 22" replacement that I have no idea how old it is. I'm going to try a bottle of leak stop I got from...

Just got done putting on the MP Chrome housing (no O-ring). Just used the gasket and a little "Right Stuff" and it's leak free! I do like the Mancini unit though. That's what I would have bought if I'd known about it before I bought the chrome one...or the swivel neck unit Hughes (and others) sells.

If you still need some help, PM "lemondana" on the board here. He really knows hoses and will know forsure your correct hose. He even has some NOS hoses he'll sell you for fair prices. He's helped me on my 340 get the right belts/hoses. He said alot of people run the wrong upper on their cars...

Are running a 50/50 mix? More anti-freeze = higher temps typically. Something to check and rule out at least since I see nobody mentioned it...