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Make life easier and your exhaust more efficient by running smaller tubes after the mufflers and over the axle, and use a larger end piece if you like the look.

Just noticing this reply. Will try to shoot some video.

When I installed Dougs on my '73 Dart, I also had a Summit X-pipe kit to install behind it. But before mocking this all up and welding it into a one-piece X, I pulled the collectors of both headers together with a ratchet strap about an inch, mocked up the X-pipe and welded everything. But...

98% of them only sound 'nice' at idle and slow cruisin, but their sound turns to **** at any higher rpm-range. M.O. ;)

I run the Borla Pro-ST (street) mufflers.

An X-pipe makes the engine sound more 'mono', instead of Stereo with two seperate tubes. Also, the mono-sound makes the car sound more like a modern car. There was hardly any power gain to be measured, and if any, it would be just a tad at the higher rpms, accordingly to David Freiburger and...

Besides that simple and fairly common solution, there also 'used to be a time' when people would simple fix something, instead of just replacing the part... It's just a steel box... So how about simply welding that little rusty hole closed again?

Yes, have someone else upload it to YouTube and post the link here... :)

Nice and cheap. Oh wait...

Doug's here on a 310 & 360 in a '73 Dart with mini-starter and Borgeson PowerSteering; Depending on engine-position the headers could hit either left or right torsion bar or steering coupler. Due to a self-welded X-pipe kit I was able to pull the collector tubes together slightly and lessen...

As with every 'sound' movie on Youtube, you really have to listen to it with some good headphones on. Stock computer speakers leave out a whole range of low and bass tones, which make engine/exhaust noise sound flimsy usually.

I have a videoclip on my site showing the difference in sound between a pair of 17748 Dynomax mufflers and open tubes. Not the most scientific way of testing but it might give you an idea of how much a Dynomax mufflers 'muffles'... Open exhaust vs Dynomax Exhaust mufflers sound level difference

My immediate fix would have been to simply reweld the mufflers (better this time) and be on my way in no time.

Not disputing the thin metal, but maybe they tear up more easily when the entire system doesn't have enough hangers? Could that be a possible culprit?

Centerdump shorties don't work in A-bodies. Forget about them. In addition to 72blunblu's post, I would say a lowered stance and headers need to go along with upgraded springs and shocks. I'm running 1" torsion bars with Doug's headers. While I'm running the car a fair amount lower than stock...

Tell that to the JetHot crap coating on my Doug's headers. 1 winter was all it took to turn the underside of them to totall rust. No sign of coating anymore.

Forget about driving them when the roads are salted in the winter in your area. It turns to crusty rust in one season. Ask me how I know.

Coating loose on top or bottom? Driven around with salt on the roads? My coated Dougs' headers were completely stripped and rusted at the collectors after one winter. Top end looks perfect still.

I've got Dougs with a 318 and an A518. No issues at all with the transmission. Problem areas are torsion bars and possible steering column on tube no 7. If you drive your car on salty winter roads, forget about the ceramic coating. It'll be gone near the lower tubes and collectors in just one...

All mandrel tubing, except for 2 small bends just in front of the mufflers for alignment, which I pie-cut and rewelded... New Exhaustsystem – Dougs Headers, X-pipe and Borla Pro-XS mufflers

As for the speedbumps, that's where proper suspension-upgrades come into play. With the 1" torsionbars and Hotchkis & QA1 adjustable shocks on my Dart, I don't have to slow down for the 'smooth' speedbumps at all. Only times I very occassionaly scrape the exhaust is when encountering a steep and...

I believe they are available in 3 versions. I got the JetHot coated ones, thinking they might last a while... But it became obvious quickly the coated will not survive some roadsalt. Here's a fairly recent pic of the underside of my, at the time 10 months old Doug's Headers (but I think any...

Before I installed Doug's on my '73 Dart, the A518 oilpan was the lowest item under the car, and I set the rideheight to that... Now it's the collectors by another /12" - 5/8". I wasn't pleased to see that after installation but there's not much you can change about it at that point. The JetHot...

Read up about "Pressure wave termination box"-technology.

Meaning a too large exhaust can/could cost more in power than headers or a digitally tuned ignition curve could make up.

Something I knew upfront got confirmed as an eye-opening experience on the dyno tonight. Stockish 318s with 2.5 dual exhausts leave power on the table. It had stock castiron manifolds with dual 2-1/4" seperate exhausts into turbo muffler like mufflers and tailpipes. Now there's a pair of full...

I'm running a pair of Borla Pro XS on my 318 Dart, along with fulllength Dougs Headers, a 2.5" mandrell X-pipe and tailpipes to the end. They rumble nice and quiet at idle, but get just a bit too loud nearing 2000rpm with some throttle. Once off the throttle they're fine again. I can also think...

I wonder how close will they sound and flow to Borla Pro XS or XR mufflers. Nice work.

My Dart goes on the dyno this monday. Now with 2.5" exhaust X-pipe and Borla's. But too much has changed since the last dyno session to give any sane comparison.

I have fulllength Doug's headers on my daily driven '73 Dart. They still hang lower than I hoped for. Installing was a lot of work. Engine position (up/down, left/right) is very important for the tubes to clear the torsion bars. I pulled the collectors together slightly when I welded up the...