Has anybody used these headers?

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i should add theyed be going on a 98 5.9 magnum
 
Shorty headers are certainly a shortcoming. How did you build your engine? In my opinion, just for myself, I would never use these. The only application in which these would work for me would be in something like a ‘32
 
I got a set of B-R/B shorties that look similar and were about 100$. They seem to be of decent quality. I needed to get something other than rear dump manifolds for my Dakota.
 
I put Headman shorties on my 408 in my 71 Barracuda. They fit nice, however, it takes a sharp bend from the collector to work. The Headman's are about twice as much, but are 1 5/8". I think the ones you are looking at are 1.5".

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rumblefish360 said:
Shorty headers are certainly a shortcoming. How did you build your engine? In my opinion, just for myself, I would never use these. The only application in which these would work for me would be in something like a ‘32
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Im using them because i completely and totally despise long tube headers on these A bodies, they drag on the ground if i dont crank my torsion bars all the way up and any bump i hit they drag, also they make it almost impossible to get to the starter, and make spark plug removal a nightmare as well. Imo what minor amount of horsepower you would gain with headers over shorty's just isnt worth it to me and im working on a budget. The 360 is bone stock except for the 4bbl carb and dual plane edelbrock intake, and were putting in a mild custom grind cam from lunati.
 
Yes I tried them. They are well built but they won't fix in an A Body. They dump directly into the frame at the motor mounts. Their listing in incorrect but they did take them back.
 
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I see with the "hits" on ebay there's a whole shipload of these things. Most of them seem to fit the Dakota/ Ram pickups. I detest those stupid "application charts" in ebay which give false hits
 
wes beem said:
Im using them because i completely and totally despise long tube headers on these A bodies, they drag on the ground if i dont crank my torsion bars all the way up and any bump i hit they drag, also they make it almost impossible to get to the starter, and make spark plug removal a nightmare as well. Imo what minor amount of horsepower you would gain with headers over shorty's just isnt worth it to me and im working on a budget. The 360 is bone stock except for the 4bbl carb and dual plane edelbrock intake, and were putting in a mild custom grind cam from lunati.
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The best headers are ether Doug’s or TTI headers.
And that’s were the list ends.
If those are to much money, then there’s the ones you and everyone else despise!!!!

IMO, run exhaust manifolds and work around the problem.
 
wes beem said:
Im using them because i completely and totally despise long tube headers on these A bodies, they drag on the ground if i dont crank my torsion bars all the way up and any bump i hit they drag, also they make it almost impossible to get to the starter, and make spark plug removal a nightmare as well. Imo what minor amount of horsepower you would gain with headers over shorty's just isnt worth it to me and im working on a budget. The 360 is bone stock except for the 4bbl carb and dual plane edelbrock intake, and were putting in a mild custom grind cam from lunati.
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See, all 4 of you points are wrong, imho. First off the newer better design headers have all the tubes above the steering gear, so you don't have to crank the bars way up, actually, you can lower then, give it that stance you want. 2nd,. The modern header, lotsa access to the starter, especially the new mini starter. But seriously, how often do you removed a starter, mines been in a decade. 3rd. The better modern header gives way lotsa room to get #5 & #7 plugs out, AND there's so much room the plug wires don't need any protection from burning. 4th. The scavenging and other effect of long tube header produce more than a few h/p. They have long been one of the most cost effective means of gaining on n/a engine. Most h/p per $$. Think 8 - 10 % h/ p closed, 15% ish open.. Instead guys paying hundreds to install X / H pipes that give a vague 5 h/p . The shorty header, you ever seen the undersink plumbing that some muffler shop is going to charge to install. Jeg's and others make inexpensive kits, hook straight up to header, or your original exhaust.. A s to the camshaft, do you think a cam will shove you back in the seat like a header, and put a grin on your face, sorry, depending on the gear ratio, not gonna happen. The name of the modern headers that do this, are budget Doug's (on sale AutoZone $350ish), or pricey TTI. jmobservation&experience. Hope it helps.
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I’ll second starter clearance with the mini starter and TTI headers. Not possible with the stock monster starter. IDK about Doug’s headers.

Plug wire clearance was good with the TTI.

An “H” or “X” pipe provide a slight bit more power over a true dual system. I figure your going to run a full exhaust, so, ether one will do best. An open header with the appropriate extension added on makes the best power but it would be muffler less and loud, so, I think the above post is slightly off. Unless, that is, you can run open headers on the street without care or concern.

A properly constructed exhaust system for a zero loss in power is super difficult to do under the car. You really just don’t have the room. There is more power loss due to muffler design, size or available flow rates (AKA Not enough flow) than a full length pipe end to end.

A full length muffled exhaust will about never make the power of a open header. To put a 5hp value on it?
I don’t fully understand that one.
 
i already have long tube headers on the motor and scraped and threw sparks everywhere i went until i jacked up the torsion bars, and even now if i hit a pothole or dip in the road (which is 90% of the roads here) i still scrape bottom.
 
Wrong headers. ! !
In life we sometimes make mistakes - for many reasons. You now have the opportunity to make a choice again, perhaps with better information. cheers.
 
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wes beem said:
i already have long tube headers on the motor and scraped and threw sparks everywhere i went until i jacked up the torsion bars, and even now if i hit a pothole or dip in the road (which is 90% of the roads here) i still scrape bottom.
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So either you’re not using Doug’s or TTI headers, or something is seriously wrong with your suspension. Or maybe both.

I run Doug’s headers on the 340 in my Duster, my car is lowered about 2” compared to the factory ride height, and I don’t have any issues with my headers bottoming out while I’m out on the road. I even compared the TTI shorties and head pipes to my Doug’s long tubes, the improvement in ground clearance was less than 3/8”.
 
Centerdump shorties don't work in A-bodies. Forget about them.

In addition to 72blunblu's post, I would say a lowered stance and headers need to go along with upgraded springs and shocks.
I'm running 1" torsion bars with Doug's headers.
While I'm running the car a fair amount lower than stock, the headers are still the lowest part under the car and had to adjust it a tad higher again than I wanted. But with the my current ride-height the headers hardly ever hit anything, unless the speedbump is just a idiotic high, sow speed one in certain citystreets.
 
I read that shorties wouldn't work in an E-body as well, but they fit pretty nice in mine. I was ready to modify the dump if necessary though.
 
I have a 71 Duster with a 360 that have shorty headers on it...I bought the car a couple of years ago.....it has the /6 k member with shucmacher motor mounts....the car has not moved in a while as it is waiting it turn .....I do not know what brand they are but I can try and see if I can find any marks on them.....at least take a couple of pictures....lol

Those will come off the car went I get to it also....have an old set of tti to put on it.
 
70aarcuda said:
I have a 71 Duster with a 360 that have shorty headers on it...I bought the car a couple of years ago.....it has the /6 k member with shucmacher motor mounts....the car has not moved in a while as it is waiting it turn .....I do not know what brand they are but I can try and see if I can find any marks on them.....at least take a couple of pictures....lol

Those will come off the car went I get to it also....have an old set of tti to put on it.
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if you wanna sell em anytime soon i may be interested. Im looking to have my 360 installed by september
 
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