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Where its at so far

I didn't think a cup would work but thats all I can find listed for a replacement from Comp, Crane and Lunati. So the one's I have are right then, good to know. And if I ever need new ones I'll just have to get 'universal' 9.25" ones.

I'm putting my 440 back together and I have an issue with the pushrods. I have what measures out to a stock 440 camshaft w/hydraulic lifters and stock non-adjustable rockers. The motor has 9.25" ball-ball pushrods. I have read that that combo needs 9.125" ball-cup pushrods. Any one have any...

Edelbrock heads are listed as 'each' not 'pair' though it does not say that on Summit. They kinda fool you into thinking its a pair by the picture.

I've been to that site now :D hahaha. Ya, I grew up in the Fullerton area, I'm only down here for work. So if you want some help anytime let me know. MH heads flow decent enough. Before aftermarket heads came around the 452's were the ones to have. But here's some flow comparisons(intake)...

Not extra in the block, '75+ blocks had redesigned water passages that have the ability to cool better than previous. I have heard that MH heads have extra jackets in between the spark plugs to cool the heads better but I have not actually seen proof of this. But anything is possible right?

True, but the question isn't whether a 440 with aluminum parts weights less than a 360 with the same parts, so that's not the point I was trying to make. Just that a 440 shouldn't make handling any worse than a stock 360/340/318 A-body if set up properly. Now we're starting to talk about...

I chose the 440 over the 360 myself. The MH 440 block should be no different than a car of that same year. My block is a '76. A 440 with aluminum heads, intake and water pump actually weighs less than a stock 360 so don't listen to the "they dont handle as well" talk. Its all on how you set it...

Good basic info on differences and Myth debunking; http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm 727 tailshaft will most likly be wrong. It'll be a short tail bolt on yoke and you need a long tail slip yoke. I just did this swap in my Duster. Its really not that hard to do, just getting all the right...

67-76 "A"-body / 66-74 "B"-body / 70-74 "E"-body applications: From the center of the crankshaft to the top of the K-frame, the correct distance is 5-1/4”. The engine is also offset towards the passenger-side. Measure from the center of the crankshaft to each frame rail...

I can measure my 440 tomorrow evening. But you are definitely too high. Motor mounts are probably only 1 inch thick or so though.

I traded a 360 long block that needed bored out for a complete 440 and the 727 trans....

Yep I'm hitting a little bit on the cross member in the tunnel. Only about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch so trimming is due for this weekend. All other clearances look good as is at the moment, we'll see once the heads and headers get put on. Subframe connectors are definitely on the install list before...

Just got the short block and trans put in today. Went in real nice and only have one spot on the top of the tail shaft that hits. I had to change my 727 from a short tail to a long tail and used the tail shaft outta a truck that is thicker/stronger(i guess) than a car tail shaft so I'll have to...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-4697/ Same as the Schumauker(however you spell it) mounts but half the price. My search for headers lead to Hi-Flow Tri-Y Under Chassis B/RB Headers http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/67.72aBody.html#head6

I second the above

I have the black composite gaskets at the moment. But I use a little Ultra blue on all types of gaskets that I've used except for the steel core rubber type, never had a problem with those leaking.

A little Ultra Blue RTV on both sides of the valve cover gaskets will seal them up with no leaks. (ultra blue is formulated to expand when it comes into contact with oil. I've never had a leak with it) Maybe you'll have to shim the engine up a bit for better clearance? I have a 440 about ready...

Ya I use it all the time, its a great program and the customer support is great! We've compared it to a real dyno run multipal times and it was always within 5-10 HP of the actual run. I highly recommend it to anyone building a motor.