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I am looking to upgrade the cam later, and possibly the heads. I want to buy a converter now that will work for both possible scenarios.

The turbo action S-800 tight was what i was leaning towards, right at the top of my budget too. I may upgrade the cam, and valve springs later, but that's about it, nothing too drastic from stock. I already have the correct flex plate for a neutral balance converter as well.

I have a stock 01 5.9 magnum in a 71 dart. 340 hp manifolds, 727, and an 8 3/4 with 3:55 gears. Street only, I do highway drive occasionally at around300 rpms. I am looking for a good tight street converter, any suggestions?

I had concerns of it being too loose, I am going to run it, and see how it does.

Mine will be mainly a street car as well. I do drive on the highway for short periods of time though.

72 dart, stock bottom end, and heads 360 magnum, air gap intake, carter afb, 340 manifolds, 727, 8 3/4 3: 55 gears.

I am afraid it will be too loose for the street as well.

Has anyone had experience with a Hughes 24-30 converter. I have recently acquired one, and was going to install it in my dart.

update- I had the drive shortened, and balanced. The noise that I blamed on the rear end went away, it must have been the driveshaft.

I will pull the center section an inspect it, it looks like one of my winter projects may be to install a new ring and pinion.

Pulled the driveshaft, pinion nut is tight. But there is a lot of play in the in the axle when I turn the pinion. Should there be that much play back and forth?

checking the pinion nut this weekend.

I just used limited slip additive.

My next step is to pull the center section and inspect the bearings.

Not sure on the set up, recently acquired the center section, and just installed it.

Have an 8 3/4 suregrip makes no noise under acceleration, when i let off of the accelerator it makes a whining bearing sound. I am trying to pin point the area, wheel bearings look fine, could it be a differential bearing? How hard is this to replace?

I have a Bbody rear end in my 72 dart, I put it in more than 20 years ago. When I installed it, I just pulled the springs apart to fit the perch width. Over time both mounting brackets for the spring shackles were twisted, and actually started to separate from the frame. I have since realigned...

abody 1972 dart

ok, thanks

is there enough spline left after they are shortened?

My current rear end housing is from a 65 B-body. If I were to narrow the rear-end to stock A body specs, will the current b body axles work in the narrowed housing? I will be taking of just over an inch on each side.

I believe they were removed at some point, and I just did not notice them missing.

I have a stock engine with a stock converter, just missing the weights on the converter. Trying to avoid pulling trans, just need the weights to weld back into position. If someone has a stock 360 converter with the 2 rectangle weights that they can measure laying around, I could replicate the...

engine is a 360, converter is stock. just missing counterweights, I did not notice during build. They were removed and welded back on at some time by someone.

While doing exhaust on my car I happened to look at the torque converter and noticed the counterweights were missing. They were either removed, or fell off, I am not sure. I would like to find a set of them to replace the missing ones. They are the 2 rectangle shaped weights, there is still an...

thank you for very much for the conversion chart.

Where can you get a combination u joint.

I got rid of the old center section

The rear end is an A body 8 3/4". I just recently replaced the center unit, I don't know what the new center unit came out of. Before I swapped the center unit the U joint fit fine, this different center unit must have a wider yoke. The u joint that I have now doesn't stretch across the yoke...

I know that there are different size cups for U joints. Is there also different length U joints? I mean the distance across the U joint, I am trying to install a new U joint on an 8 3/4 and the cups are 1/4" from the edge of the yoke. This doesn't seem right. Maybe someone here can help me...