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Unplug the headlight switch, it may be the problem.

I was thinking the same.

sounds like too much total timing.

If you set full mechanical advance to between 32 and 36 degrees at around, or above 3,00 rpm. After setting this, your initial timing will probably fall in the 8 to 12 degrees advanced range. To do this you will need to unhook, and plug the vacuum advance line. Doing this will establish a good...

What is your initial timing? Sometimes if the initial is too high, when the vacuum comes in it will ping. I had the same problem, and had to lower the initial timing. I know all set ups are different, but I run 12deg. initial, 34 deg. total, and all in with vacuum advance is around 45 deg.

I have been running the standard grey box for years, but lately during hard acceleration my ignition cuts out. I think it may be the ignition box, just don't want to but a cheap one and have the same results.

If not this box, then which box is a good performance upgrade?

yes, that is what I mean

I trying to find a good replacement for the Mopar performance orange box.

Has anyone had any luck with Manini's orange box. I know it has a real resistor, and a Chrysler part #.

What about this one from Classic Industries.

I have had one of those Select boxes from Advanced Auto for years, works fine.

Recently purchased this unit from Jegs, it lasted about 50 miles before it gave up. It did seem to run better when it did work.

has anyone tried the Jegs orange or blue control modules?

I had the same issues with my temp gauge, I could never get it to work. I checked all grounds, heated sensor outside of car, replaced voltage limiter, it all tested good, still gauge did not work. I gave up on it, and just drove the car wit no temp. gauge. Eventually, it started working on its...

That looks like a condenser to prevent interference to radio signals, they would usually be bolted to the coil.

that may be for the relay to plug into.

I found the problem!! I had a loose wire in the connector from the ignition that supplies power to the fuse box. Everything works fine now. Thank you very much for your time and patience.

I have hazards. I have brake lights. The only thing that I do not have is turn signals. I have replaced the flasher. I have no power at the turn signal switch. I have no power at either side of the turn signal flasher. My fuses are fine.

I have power at both ends of the fuse

I checked all the fuses they are ok.

I have been working on the dash and lights on my 72 dart. I have everything working except the turn signals. I have used a new switch, and changed the flasher relay and still nothing. I have no power to the turn signal switch, or the relay. my question is where does the 12v power for the switch...

looks like blower motor resistor.

maybe ballsat resistor

That is what I thought I could do. Just was not sure if it would work. Thank you.

I dont think that you understand what I am asking. I am not crawling under anything. The sending unit will noe be in the tank. The tank will not be in the car.

I meant, with the sending unit out of the tank. Can i hook the wire to the unit, ground it and move the arm, then watch the gauge in the car.

I meant while it was still in the car.

Another question. Is there a way to test the sending unit out of the car. Maybe ground it and watch the gauge as the arm moves up and down. I dont know.