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I didn't do anything to the cone sure grip when I built the third member. All I did was add a crush sleeve eliminator kit with new bearings, shims, and gears. (All from Dr.Diff) Yes, I did use synthetic gear oil with the Ford friction modifier and the rear end locks up and does not chatter or...

That's a good score then too! BTW, I had a '81 1/2 ton 2wd pickup with a slant 6 and a 727 in it...

Just remember that the drive shaft length on a Dart/Scamp is different than a Demon/Duster/Dart Sport. The Scamp has a 3'' longer wheel base than a Demon...

I always thought that the '70 only interlock garbage was stupid. I would never install it back on the car if I had one.

It amazes me how people overthink things like this. When you lube your front end, put a couple of shots in each u-joint zerk and call it done. It's not like you have a 1000 h.p. race car here...

The O.P. has probably installed the old mis-matched lifters and run the engine for 20,000 miles by now. Lol! But seriously, if the lifters look okay on the bottom with slight wear and are still slightly convex, I would just stab 'em in there, and they should be fine. If any of them have abnormal...

I would re use them if they look good and have a convex face with no abnormal wear or scratches. This of course is taking for granted that the cam is also good and you do not have heavy duty valve springs in the heads. If you are ever in doubt, replace them to be on the safe side. I have run...

You'll never regret going with the 360 for your application.........

By all means, save it and don't scrap it. You can always do that later if you don't decide to use it or parts from it.........

Thank you, you are absolutely right! I stand corrected.

No. You are not changing the position of the rear end, or altering it's range of motion substantially. That is of course taking for granted that it is the right length to begin with.........

Boy, you guys tend to over think things. A lot of people forget the fact that when these cars were built, there was sometimes a factory variance of up to 1/2'' in some cases for body squareness and that affects the rear end's position in the car. FROM THE FACTORY. That's why the engineers built...

Yep, you're crazy.......

Fair enough. I can see where you are coming from now. The stock A-Body width diff makes perfect sense on a '70 Dart. As you go along, you might seriously consider mini tubbing the car and moving the springs inboard for extra clearance so you can fit bigger tires in there, with of course the...

Is this rear axle going into the Demon in your profile? If so, there is no reason to narrow the axle to A-Body SBP specs. Other than using the wheels that you have, you can get some BBP cop wheels to replace your SBP cop wheels and have the good brakes, big bolt pattern, and a source to a lot...

Cool video, thanks for sharing!

I certainly agree with you on the synthetic oil in the older 4 speed manual transmission thing. It's just too slippery. Tried it, it clashed big time, never doing it again. I am a firm believer in synthetic oils and lubricants, (especially Amsoil) but they are not right for any and all...

Well, I'll throw my hat into the ring. I run Amsoil 75-90 with 2 bottles of Ford friction modifier in mine. It is a '69 489 case cone sure grip. I haven't had any issues with noises or chattering for 5 years now, so I'll call it good. I had the same gear lube combination in my old '69 Super Bee...

I'm with you on that one. And the Dana 60 just looks a lot better than a 9'' or 8 3/4. Just like the gen 2 hemi looks better than any wedge headed engine.........

Just keep it, you'll kick yourself later if you don't. It doesn't take up much more room than your 7 1/4, so just put it on top. You might even be able to sell it locally or trade it for something down the road.........

Ahahahahaaa, You said butt.........

If Dr. Diff says to use them, and they are cheap, why would you be over thinking this? Just install them and be done with it. Cass (Dr. Diff) is an expert on this, so it would be good to follow his recommendations in any case...........

This is sure a twist from you. I though you were manual transmission only......... As far as the question, the others are right about the capacity increase is always better. The factory didn't include drain plugs because they wanted you to change the filter when you changed the oil in the...

I met Cass when I was down in Polson, Montana last summer on holidays. He is as great of a guy and as helpful in person as he is on the phone. He showed me around a bit and we talked for an hour or so. I saw some really cool stuff he had in stock (kind of a tour), like a complete S60 rear end...

Yes. I have a set in my Dart Sport that I bought from Cass and have run them for 5 years now with no issues. They are pretty quiet IMHO, and haven't changed one bit..........

Go with the Dana 60, you will never regret it. I had a '69 Super Bee 383 4 speed car that I put a warmed over '71 H.P. 440 in, and within a month, I blew the pinion bearing out of the 489 case 8 3/4'' rear end doing some burn outs. I put in a 354 Dana 60 out of a rolled '68 GTX that my brother...

The Dana 60 also just looks better, let alone the superior strength.

I use a special Hyper-Galactic laser to measure mine. It's accurate to within a billionth of an inch. Give or take a trillionth.

Hmmm. Then a new seal won't do it then. Honestly, i've never seen one leak through the splines and past the washer and nut before if everything is tight. And if the nut isn't tight, then the yoke would wobble and wreck the seal anyway. Pictures would go a long way here........

This is the first thing i thought of. The pinion yoke probably has a groove in it where the seal rides.