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Looks like an electric pump is next. any tips on the flow rate for a lightly modified 6?

i tried this and the result was the same little to no flow, i even took the pump off and reinstalled still no better, So it looks like the electric is my next move. Any tips on the flow rate for a lightly modified 6?

Thank you guys for the input. Items I forgot to include: Tank and sending unit are both new, all rubber lines were replaced, I also cleaned the steel line using brake clean then blowing it out before installing everything, fuel pump was replaced week. Still having the same issue with the new pump.

Good Day, I am having a fuel issue and not sure what to check next. After driving about 45-60 mins the car stalls and my filter is dry. I have the 5/16 line from tank to pump then i had 3/8 to the carb. I have switched to 5/16 all the way, replaced the pump, blew air from the tank going forward...

I tried heat shrink hose clamps with 45* fittings.

Is it possible to replace the oil pan gasket only with the engine still in the car on a 67 dart?

Should of posted this earlier to maybe help someone. So to keep my factory wiring and not cut and splice to make things fit I found an extra factory elect VR plug. It was to short so I lengthened as needed. Short (pun) story I plugged the new blue and my old green. Didn't even see the new color...

67 pm sent

:BangHead: Wow I went from mission accomplished to epic failure in about 2 minutes. Short version: alt fields good, wiring to vr plug and firewall after tap good, no shorts no alt grounding. Fired up finally and gauge showed charge but my volt meter showed a hard 14 volts like it was pegged...

sounds good thank a lot for the help and enjoy your Sunday

Well just to be sure I will run a ground wire from the case to another ground. So by looking at the pics does it appear that the either connection is grounded? I was wondering on the one being encased in a housing and the other not. Thanks again for the help. Ill wire everything but not going to...

thanks 67. I haven't wired anything else up yet. the wires in the first pic are the old vr wires I just moved them out of the way. I'm going to try to plug the blues together at the regulator and I did sand off the paint behind for a good ground.

Sorry about the way the words are spaced out our computers having issues

After finishing my HEI conversion I started the alternator upgrade to the 70's type and the electronic voltage regulator. Ive used a factory plug from the regulator to the alt. but I'm unsure where to plug the ends into as the original had only one field spade. I see one is in a ceramic type...

Thanks Trailbeast apparently that's all I missed was the wire swap on the dist. side. I could of sworn I tried that already but I did have a defective rebuild that caused a lot of headache. Runs great now.

I did the HEI conversion on my 67 dart. Using a factory electric distributor, installed the magnecore wires, new cap and rotor, new module. The only part not new is the coil I used the one from the doner vehicle. Car will start and idle but when I give a little throttle it runs very rough and...

Ive shaved .100 from all 3 of mine. You will have to drill the alt bracket holes a couple sizes bigger as the hole angle changes.

I don't remember the numbers but I used the manual that came with it and dropped rods and jets down one step. Ran great. I had the same block work and was running the Aussie long ram.

I moved it around think I can make it work. Just waiting on the radiator now

I have installed a semi built 64 225 in my 67 dart. Among other things like the radiator drain decided to fall off and about 30 pounds of sludge coming off the original motor in the driveway the carb I have, a carter bbd 2 bbl from a 67 318 has the fuel inlet in a bad spot also the choke linkage...

The bolt and vice grip worked great. Thamks

Thanks for the help I will do the bolt thing after work today.:cheers:

Is it possible to remove the oil dip stick tube without damaging it?

Finally got the greasy beast out and after lots of scraping and cleaning (plus grinding off exhaust bolt) I got to the block date. Its dated 10 of 66. put the flex plate on and measured the hole. No issues there. Thanks for everyones help.

Thanks guys for all the help and advice my GT is a early early 67 the turning signal bulbs in the cluster had tape over them and my remote mirror is not remote hopefully everything lines up will find out today

Thanks Rusty I forgot about underneath. That should help a lot. There are 3 holes around the temp sending unit area, the 67 only has the 1. I will be using the flex plate from the 67 will I still have issues mating to the trans?

I'm planning a motor swap due to an almost seized bearing, the new motor is a 64 going into a 67 dart- Any problems between these two years. All ive seen so far are a couple extra water holes that need plugs. Second is there a special tool or a trick to removing the TC bolts. Not much room on...

I tried just not very tech savy.

Not mine-just in case someones looking to go this route. post id: 5469476285. If it doesn't come up correctly it in seattle craigslist under slant 6. Its a turbo efi,title missed a couple letters.

My latest Dart still has the original plates. I found the build sheet and part of the carpet color sheet on the floorboards under the carpet instead of on the back seat.