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I believe it goes between heater blower switch and resistor.

Hopefully picture is clear enough to trace it.

Goes to the ignition switch connector and ties into the connector for the switch in the column for the key in buzzer. So when the drivers door is opened and the key is in it provides a ground for the buzzer which is part of the horn relay.

Sounds to me like you have issues with grounds to the dash. Personally when I did my car I ran extra grounds to the dash frame and instrument cluster.

Goes to door jamb switch on drivers side. Door Jamb Switch 3 pin Mopar

Sorry to take the post too far in the weeds on the splines. John do you have a manual for your car? Here’s a link to download. Service Manuals – MyMopar Browsing through it, it does appear that the hazard switch was not in the column on a 1970. But that’s not to say there wasn’t a mid year...

Hi Dana, yes there is a “key” on the wheel and shaft and the splines around the dark colored spline looks to me like they’re rough or damaged, like the keys weren’t aligned. If that’s the case a little work with a file should clean it up.

Looking at this photo was the master spline on the steering wheel lined up to the master spline on the shaft? The spline area I circled looks chewed up to me. It also looks like the nut only engaged about 6 threads. If the splines are boogered up the wheel could be hanging up and not sliding all...

Sounds like car may have been running off battery and pulled it down. Especially with it wanting to die. Now the issue is did the charging system have an issue that killed the battery. If you have a volt ohm meter check battery voltage after charging and then see what voltage does when trying to...

What ignition system is installed on the car? The neutral safety could be adjustment but me personally my first step would be to check every ground and ground wire going to engine and body especially if it sat for a long time. The grounds “could” be the cause of both issues. I understand you...

Distributor Plug, RB and Hemi | AR Engineering This is for big block. I “think” this is what you’re asking for. If a small block I thought the later magnums that used distributor-less systems had something similar but that’s going back a ways for me. Maybe contact AR engineering.

The button could be up under dash it will more than likely be a small momentary switch. Maybe like this. If the note is in the console it could be in there as well. Sharp looking ride too.

Agree with the 12 volts probably cooking them. I’d do a resistance check to verify. Gauges are reproduced but they are pricey. Herb's Parts: 67-71 A BODY RALLYE DASH GAUGE SET, Circuit Boards & Gauges, CS213-6 May be others that sell them. So as with any repoped parts shop around. If one...

You said you cleaned grounds on turn signal circuit. But what about battery to block, chassis ground? Sitting outside damp I’d start with making sure all grounds are good. Not sure how the dash grounds to chassis but I’d make sure the instrument cluster and column has good grounds as well...

You’re welcome. I don’t have days like that mine turn into weeks.

The eBay item description says 14 16 18. Copy the item number and put in to eBay search. It should come up. Hope that helps. I don’t know how to directly link the item.

Rusty I “think” these may be what you want. eBay item 274866212034 but not 100%. May give you at least a lead. Or these. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/02973915-L?qs=ncxkyCpAYDDXV3ZGgjACbw== kind of pricey either way.

I can’t remember for sure if the m&h harness I installed in mine had the wires on the dash harness side. But the wires from the switch should have connected to the dash harness thru the ignition switch connector. That’s how mine was. I would also check the switch to make sure it’s good.

Volt ohm meter to temp sender wire to ground. At the sender end. Should see approximately 5 volts dc fluctuating. Digital meter may not pick it up. If that’s good try a temporary ground to metal part of instrument cluster. I’d personally try the ground anyway.

They’ve got a ton of “odd ball” stuff. Their catalog is like an old Sears Christmas catalog to me. I bought quite a bit thru them.

Clips and fasteners has a lot of stuff. Lamp Socket Pretty sure yours should be 5/8”. But it’s been a while since I bought them.

The one I know for sure is the key buzzer works off drivers side.

On my 71 Demon that connector went to the drivers side door jamb switch. Door Jamb Switch 3 pin Mopar

You could also pull the control fuses for the 2 systems you referenced and see. The fan control more than likely is live to retain the settings if it’s digital.

There’s a point where the valve springs will cause the cam to “jump” forward this will cause the timing to advance for a period of time til that play is taken back out of the chain due to rotation of the engine. If that makes sense, best way I know to describe it.

Follow above, but you may want to do a resistance check thru ignition switch. It may be able to carry voltage but not current.

Dash harness? If so when I did my 71 Demon rally dash all harness’s were replaced, I rang and checked everything. I found 2 wires at the bulkhead connector swapped on the under dash harness. I can’t recall which, it’s been almost 5 years. Check all the circuits with volt/ohm meter per wiring...

I’m going to throw a guess out there because I’m not sure what the difference would be. I think with the drivers side water pump the timing tab is on the passenger side. Maybe the alternator covers it. Not sure. You could always call AR Engineering and ask.

Haven’t had many in my life fail. Most memorable was I had. 76 Ramcharger factory big block. Ugly green bare bones no ac or even carpet. My now ex decided she wanted to take it to town along with my first daughter as a baby. It was winter. Anyway I get a phone call the truck quit. So I drive in...

RTE Gauge Faq - rte I used their regulator on my 71 Demon rally gauges big thing was to make sure regulator has a good ground.