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Anyone know what the extended length is on the A body drag shock? I have a set of new Monroe gas matics that have been on the shelf for several year that are 26.25” E & 15.5” collapsed. Thanks

i didnt care for my snubber with SS springs. im going with slapper bars also more for looks!

I used one of these in my trans, they make p/s ones that are basicly the same. It has a much bigger more powerful magnet and a paper type media filter like in a oil filter. http://www.magnefinefilters.com

I use this one in a older truck I just purchased. It is basicly a screen to catch bigger crud but does have a magnet in it also to catch all the fine metal. The steering was fine I just pulled the reservoir out to clean ( a lot of crud and grime at the bottom) and flushed it...

Have the box rebuilt by firm feel, they should also have knowledge about making it even quicker maybe different pitman arm. The P/S is already something like 15 to1 ratio.

KYB's work fine for me. I run SS springs on the rear with 28" nitto DR's so not sure how any shock will be engineered for that combo short of a adjustable. Front is stock with sway bar and some poly ride is firm but pretty good to me.

Your correct.. Moog is mostly average at best now. I also can't remember the name of the company but the parts are made in USA, and Taiwan. Maybe this http://proforged.com

The problem is not so much China, but the greedy american company that moved or opened a plant there and has no room in the budget to pay a few quality control peaple!

I just got some Monroe 32128 police shocks for a c body from rock auto for about $12 each shipped collapse length 15.6" extended is like 26" or so. Haven't tried them yet.

I took some cheap replacements 15 years ago and did the bolt through thing, has been fine all these years!

i think nape has a seal kit for the whole box but it includes the o ring for this part. make sure there is not a hairline crack in it. There is also o-rings under the part it bolts to so that may be where the leak is at.

They're not on the track because most of them are original muscle cars and valuable. Putting a bar in them would kill the resale value. Anyway the OP said he may go to the track once or twice a year he would have to weigh the pros and cons.

I wouldn't want a bar in a car I'm driving on the street 99% of the time. The car should go faster than 11.50 at the track but also there are plenty of street cars running over 500hp without a bar.

i think there is a big o-ring under there. might be a big pain. i would try lucas PS stop leak. it works!

napa

Mine is 99% street but I have KYB's on all 4 corners and I have gone 1.66 60'

I don't get it, the seal usually has a rubber lip that sometimes has a metal round springy thing. I've replaced a few.

I think you will have a lot of play, and hard to turn, why not just get a reman pump, the p/s pump doesn't use much power and the ratio is like 15 to 1 a lot better than the manual at 20 to 1 , try rock auto for a good price

I just used what napa had in stock for my 71 demon, federal pump. It's been 14 years since the rebuild without any problem. You could probably call steer and gear or firm feel for a kit but I bet they are all made buy the same manufacturer just maybe different box.

Actually making sure your windows are rolled up tight will do more than welding your frame connectors to the sheetmetal

The strength you gain welding to the floor is minimal, the type and size of the tubing and if it's X or has a cage attaché will make the biggest difference

The hi psi side is the hose that is pre made with the connectors built in

No pretty sure it's on the low psi side the return. I have a stock one on my 71 demon

some pics, sits maybe 1/2" higher on the pass side

Have them installed on my 71 demon, mine have been on the car for maybe 30 years or more. They ride nice, lift the back about an inch, and the handle a hole shot fine, 4,400 stall. I'm sure mine were made in America but I here reports of the Mexico made ones not being as good.

Saginaw is said to be better for better feel especially at road racing or hi rpm, but if you just cruise either will work about the same.

Even a lot of the moog stuff I hear is made in china or mexico

If it hooks hard meaning no spinning you don't want to remove clamps from the rear segment of the springs, this will waist Et raising the car instead of moving it forward. The solid front bushing might help with keeping your 60' consistent.

Are you wheel hopping when taking off or just simply spinning?

Kyb works fine in mine