Ss springs snubber guru's only no trolls

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bignasty123

bignasty123

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So my car does 1.59 60ft which is good but,does anyone know how to make them hook harder and I want personal expierance plz.
Rumors I herd is solid front bushing on the leaf,and clamping the front segment of the leaf spring....any input on this subject would be cool. And also how far do u have snubber from the body and I run comp shocks on all 4 corners 90/10 front 50/50 rear....would better shocks help,what brand...thanks peeps
 
bignasty123 said:
So my car does 1.59 60ft which is good but,does anyone know how to make them hook harder and I want personal expierance plz.
Rumors I herd is solid front bushing on the leaf,and clamping the front segment of the leaf spring....any input on this subject would be cool. And also how far do u have snubber from the body and I run comp shocks on all 4 corners 90/10 front 50/50 rear....would better shocks help,what brand...thanks peeps
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well ill try,thats if you will listen!!!it would be best to call me I could explan it better......or you can listen to sumone that things they know??pm me and I will giv you my #############Artie:burnout::burnout:dont call after 9am to3pm my time...........its 830pm here now.............
 
set pinion snubber to about 1/2 inch.... add clamps to the front segments of the springs, and remove all clamps from the rear portion ( behind the axel ) of the springs. I'v personally not tried the solid bushings, but I might. your shock set-up is what I run as well. If you want the car to hook even harder, consider Cal-tracks.
 
I have S/S springs and was told to clamp the springs and don't use a snubber at all, got an old Direct Connection clamp kit but haven't installed it yet....I guess this is how they did it back then and still works today :glasses7:
 
66340SEDAN said:
I have S/S springs and was told to clamp the springs and don't use a snubbed at all, got an old Direct Connection clamp kit but haven't installed it yet....I guess this is how they did it back then and still works today :glasses7:
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This is what I was told as well....
 
My car hooks hard, but I want to further my knowledge of tuning my old school set up.
 
godfatherofchry said:
well ill try,thats if you will listen!!!it would be best to call me I could explan it better......or you can listen to sumone that things they know??pm me and I will giv you my #############Artie:burnout::burnout:dont call after 9am to3pm my time...........its 830pm here now.............
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lets post it for all to read? may help someone in the future .... like me? :happy1:
 
If it hooks hard meaning no spinning you don't want to remove clamps from the rear segment of the springs, this will waist Et raising the car instead of moving it forward. The solid front bushing might help with keeping your 60' consistent.
 
fanofpetty said:
I have a couple of buddies that switched to Cal-tracs and they really improved their cars, and how they hook...but I think every car is a bit different. There's a lot of racers that swear by them...
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And quite a few that swear at them....With what my friend is going thru with them when the time comes, if it ever does, to move on from the SS springs I will probably look else where....
 
I ran a 72 Scamp BB drag car with the 002,003 SS springs. With 4.88 gears and a spool on 29 x 11.5 x 15 M/T slicks. The car hooked super hard and 60' in the 1.40-1.42 range. I didn't run the solid bushing up front. One day while under the car I noticed the springs were planting the tires so hard that the springs were wrapping hard enough to cause the 8 3/4 housing to dent the shocks where they run down close to the housing. For this reason I installed an adjustable snubber with about a half inch clearance. It didn't hurt or help the 60 ft times by much. Also I had the front rise limited to about 1-1 1/2" rise.
 
The MP suspension manual says not to run a snubber with an automatic. I know a lot of people have. In fact, that's all that I have ever seen is snubbers with automatics. I even ran one myself on my 65 Valiant. My car 60 footed in the 1.5 range, same as yours. I also never clamped the front segments or unclamped the rear. I simply installed everything and found where the snubber worked best for me and ran it. My snubber worked best on the hole that positioned it closest to the floor. I had to end up reinforcing the factory plate in the floor with 1/4" plate because the snubber started bending the floor it worked so well. I don't know what else you're looking for, but that's my EXPERIENCE.
 
what does the car run ?
whats the weight ?
Converter ?
Gearing?
Shift RPM ?
RPM across the line ?

If its hooking hard messing with the suspension isnt going to gain you anything. No spin is no spin. If you want harder launches you need to make more power.
 
at godfather..iposted my number on ur profile wall because ur inbox is full.

i just want peoples expeirances . mine hooks good,never spins i have a built 408 in my car just askin becausemon my duster i do t know to run my same set up or caltracks ...
 
AdamR said:
what does the car run ?
whats the weight ?
Converter ?
Gearing?
Shift RPM ?
RPM across the line ?

If its hooking hard messing with the suspension isnt going to gain you anything. No spin is no spin. If you want harder launches you need to make more power.
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This ^^^^^^^

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
Does it run a 1.59 and go 12.90 or 10.00... different situations for each of those. One is stellar, the other sucks. Use the wallace racing site and punch in your 60', et or mph in one of the calculators.

Without incrementals, it's not easy to answer.

I've always used a snubber to hold a door open when I wanted a breeze in the garage.
 
Well on my new set up with still room to improve I ran 7.42 I. The 1/8 think its 11s somewhere but after some jetting and tuning shoild be able to get it lower...im not gonna change it at all love the car built it to be simple and old school....just asked ur thoughts...I think im gonna do the same set up on my duster cal tracks seem over rated
 
Old School. OK. My first job I worked with a mechanical tech who had been an old school racer - stock class racing. But his own car's final set up was just to go fast, running tt and brackets. The snubber was just touching the floor - no gap - no delay - no slap. He had also removed the clamps from the rear halfs. Maybe you don't have to do that in your case. I'm not here to argue with others.

His son caught a B&W photo of the car at launch. You could see the back springs open, and the front wheels just off the ground maybe 6". The body looked almost parallel to the ground. Tires were 10" slicks IIRC, nothing wider.

He was one of my first mentors in this hobby, and went with me to the track a bunch of times, along with one of my other coworkers. I saw the car, a '67 GTX with full interior etc, but we never took it. The axles had finally broken, and he needed to put a roll bar in or run slower.

oh yes, torquflite, mvb with reverse patten and column set up to slap. Funny I never noticed any advice not run a snubber on automatics in the Chassis book. I will say for autocross and road racing its not the best solution. But on the otehr hand, there were times I just had to do it to prevent spring windup. (Yes, even ran with it preloaded at times).

So if you want to experiment, try running the snubber just touching and maybe even try preloading it a little.
 
That's what I'm lookin for old school stories I'm 29 years old and am an old soul my first car is all steel,cage, ss springs,snubber I wanted it to run 11s motor and that what it does...perfect for what it is..my duster is gonna be faster and more modern
 
bignasty123 said:
That's what I'm lookin for old school stories I'm 29 years old and am an old soul my first car is all steel,cage, ss springs,snubber I wanted it to run 11s motor and that what it does...perfect for what it is..my duster is gonna be faster and more modern
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the old hemi belvedere we used to run ran 10.40`s to 10.80`s dependeing on the tires and the track(both were bad back then) hardly ever got it to hook consistently. we tried variuos snubber settings and diff. snubbers, it would destroy all of them, we finally took it off, "didn`t make a bit of diff.":coffee2:
when the car hooked it would carry the front wheels all the way thru 1st gear, about a foot high. I`ll never forget that feeling, brings tears to my eyes even. were 002-003 superstock springs, they were a little too light for that car, and it would killl them quite regularly, but that`s what we had to work w/ back then-------------bob
 
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