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Sounds like plenty of presure you can probably run 10w30 still have more than enough oil psi and have faster oil flow on start up, better cooling of parts, more HP, and not be pumping oil back in the pan because the relief spring is open at anything off idle

Valvoline VR1 10w30, easy to Find napa can order the 10/30 and cheap. Don't use. 20w50

well then use the parts you have, unless you have a buddy that will redo the heads for cheap your best bet is to look for a set of worked over 906 or 452's for around $400

The rods were the hot setup 30 years ago, very strong but heavy. Now adays with strong light aftermarket rods they are not worth much except for a stock 440 + 6 build even then... heads are probably not worth sinking money into 516's flow ok for a mild 383, but in stock form they will strangle a...

You can go 12-13-14 to one with domed Pistons but they get heavy, that's why most like to use flat top Pistons for the lighter weight and better flame travel. Your going to have to check out piston suppliers and calculators to see where you will end up taking bore and gasket into account. As far...

If it looks that good I would talk to a machinist and see if you could just slide in a set of KB Pistons for around $300. I ran close chamber 915 with flat tops 10.3 to 1 ran great on 93 with a nice .039 quench

If that block looks ok with no ridge and still has a cross hatch with little to no taper I would look into some real Pistons. Maybe you can get away with a rehone.

Should have a forged crank at the very least.

My 915 heads that were clean milled maybe .005 were at 80cc

Those CAT rocker have about a 50/50% chance of making it past 500 miles. At the very least change out the adjusters to something decent. Then you MIGHT have a fighting chance

Should be great.

Well what spring psi will you have? Thay probably will last 50k with plenty of clean, cool, quality oil.

I've got about 10k on some 10 year old comp magnums on my SB they are not even bronze bushed! No problems whatsoever!!!

You can go to 499ci I think with the right crank in a 383

The cheap rubber ones are all I use . Don't need the steel core on that setup

Rubber ones

It's posible for sure but you will need good flowing heads like well worked 906/915 or a good set of aftermarket aluminum heads. And a somewhat hot cam, at least 238 @.050 with some good lift.

Quench!!

I would contact MRL, I have heard the SB rollers are the best to use. I would still use a good race oil with plenty of zinc even though you may not need it with a roller.

I would stay close to stock, if the rest of the engine is near stock. This should be just VERY SLIGHTLY warmer than stock. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10200701lk

Why did the FBO out HP the MSD??

Not what i found. My 68 383HP was zero on 3, between -.001 to .009 on 4 other cyl and one was .014. Driver side was front to back was .000, 000, 000, .003. then when the worker flipped the engine over to deck the other side it was .004, .007, .009, .014. Any little thing could toss off the...

My 383 was at zero with the stock pistons, cam was a lunati with 474 / 495 lift .220 at .050. 915 heads that had maybe .010 off. .039 felpro gasket. I used clay and don't quite remember the numbers but it was very safe

I had a 383 that was zero on a few cyl but the decking from the factory was crappy. Left side was zero on two and the back two was like .004 & .006. The other side started at .004 and went to .012 to the back. Quality machining was not top of the priority back the

I ran 915's with the 1.60 valve. If the valves are good reuse them if they are iffy go 1.74, the heads are more like 80cc at least my 915 was, I would shoot for a zero deck piston with the felpro .039 gasket this way you have a nice quench even if the compresion falls around 10.25 or 10.5 the...

well i would take a compression test, that will help right around 180 or below you should have no problem running 93 with a good tune, over 180 to 200 or 205 its harder. watch the plugs for black specs indication knock.

I run 93 with 11.25 it has about 200 psi cranking . I would mix race gas at the track. What would help is a light car, hi stall, heat crossovers blocked, fresh/ram air, timing backed down a bit, and cold plugs.

I would also try to find a 400 to do, but the 383 would work. The budget build with the 383 is the stock cut down 440 crank for 432" 500 hp would be easy with the 440 source heads with a mild port job and maybe a cam just slightly larger than what you listed.

single 4 would make more HP with less hassle. That said I'm happy i ditched it and went with this older mechanical Holley setup, it rated at about 1,100 cfm and is much more tunable than the stock 950cfm vacuum setups. My 360 loves this setup! The stock BB intakes work well and will get you deep...

this also shows the importance of good flowing heads and a big carb! forget those cfm calculators to pick a carb!