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When I first got my car running I had starved my carbs. while showing some zipperhead my tail lights. It was almost an embarrassing situation! So when I rebuilt the car, I planned on adding the electric and installed the line and wiring. My thought was to make sure I never sucked the carbs dry...

I started with cardboard and worked my way up to aluminum. I eliminated the drivers defroster vent and came up with this.... I know.... I look pissed. Just a bad picture. Here's the top of the final piece. I used a 1/8" thick piece of steel that I cut, bent, and drilled for my tach mount. I...

Read my post on what just happened to me with Edelbrock heads.... http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=67274 BTW: The new Indy small block heads look good for the money...

I may have missed your post with pictures describing why and how those custom made headers fit.... my mistake if I did indeed miss that explaination. I'm all for people posting pictures and hard evidence in their statements. Not just "talking". And as for the F-bomb reference, I must say, your...

I tried to de-fuse some of the STUPID tension a few posts ago on this topic. Now we're degrading to name-calling and car-bashing. Cut it out.... NOW. Anyone with a problem with this can PM me... but NO MORE bickering over headers, 100% this, or photo-shop F-bomb pictures....

Calm down Dude.... Your on thin ice with your atittude.

FWIW: I plan on doing a photo shoot when I do my TTI installation on a small block / 4spd. A body in the near future. I'll call it as I see it, which I always do. I have no reason to hype TTI if they are a pain to install...have clearance issues.... or there's serious modifications to be made. I...

While I agree that TTI's are expensive, I already went through the local muffler shop hack job. And that's what it was: PURE hack work. And this was a recommended shop! Yes... it can be done cheaper, but remember this: I just spent 3 yrs. restoring and modifing my car. I wanted to use "name...

I'll use my experiece as an example: When I first put my car together and made it a driveable piece of crap I bought a set of Hooker super comps because those TTI's are too exspensive. On the VERY FIRST ROAD TEST I bottomed out and flatted 3 tubes because they hang so friggen low.... Fast...

All the other are good? Doesn't make sense.... When I built my motor I used a MP short block, Comp Cam & lifters, a set of Edelbrock heads, a Fel-Pro .063 gasket, and a set of Crane roller rockers. When I measured I needed a set of 7.00 push rods, which I had made by Smith Brothers...

Nothing like offering constructive, encouraging advice there Pal. Instead of offering degrading put-downs, how about offering advice on what works? You OBVIOUSLY know what to do correctly. What parts...Prices...maybe even, heaven forbid...PICTURES. Go ahead... keep posting remarks like that...

I appreciate the reply, but this post is over 3 yrs. old.... I have a Comp Cams .488/.491 dual pattern in it now. Yet to fire it up.....

I have the same Comp Cam in my new engine, the .488/.491 dual pattern. And the funny thing is the old cam was the same one you have now, the MP 284/484. Unforntunately, I can't give firsthand results because mine is STILL an in-animate lump of expensive parts and labor. If you do it, let me...

Just today I was talking with a buddy of mine and he said Comp Cams has a Zinc additive that allows you to use whatever oil you want. I've also been told that the Pennzoil Racing Oil is good stuff too. One of these days I'll be pouring 5 qts. of SOMETHING into my crankcase before I cross my...

More than likely the Comp Cam's base circle is smaller than a stock cam. Pushrods cost me about $115. Check for damage first after reading your previous post.

This is interesting: First I replied to your question about the possible lifter/cam damage (another posting...) like I had and now you mention the same situation I had with my pushrods! I'm running a 360 block with a Comp Cam .488/.491 and Edelbrock heads and Crame roller rockers. Sounds EXACTLY...

Mine is close to this set-up (.020 overbore) and my compression worked out to 10.1:1 and it's exactly where I wanted it. I can't wait to see how this one runs! :toothy8:

Yeah... I'm a lover of noise too. Granted the $300+ admission is a bit steep, but I'll probably get a gear drive eventually. After the wife forgets about the $1,300 cylinder heads I just bought....:toothy5:

Where the hell did THIS guy come from?? ;) Welcome aboard! Great to see new members jump right in with a kick-*** suggestion! I was just talking about possibly grenading my rear with the new motor that's going together, and this gem comes along! Just a fast question or four: Brake...

I agree.... step up and grab a set of the Crane rollers. Remember, in-expensive can sometimes translate into expen$ive.

How's it sound & perform? I want good power, and that nasty-*** idle. The 274 was my first choice... the 284 might be too much.

Time to crack open the piggy bank marked Cuda Resurrection Fund and buy some stuff to make this lump drivable again. I'm ready to buy parts, including a cam. I'm running a MP short block that was advertised as a 9.5:1 compression version. I doubt if the CR is above that including the milled...

When I screwed together my lump last year all I used was a mild thread lock and I had no leaks. I had everything else go wrong.... but no leaks.

That's kinda what steered me into a MP short block too; I wanted to use my 6bbl. set up, plus I had a set of ported X heads. This time I'll get it right. Just need a bucket of cash to make it happen. Again....

Well.... I wouldn't totally blame the MP short block. The cam did disintergrate in 20 miles, but you know as well as I do, I assembled the damn thing. The combination of the 1.6 rockers, .509" cam, and milled heads raised hell with my pushrod geometry (or lack of....) This weekend I'm tearing it...

I ran mine down to 100ft. lbs. using lubricated ARP studs & FelPro gaskets. It was the only thing that went right.... :wink:

Wow! Thanks a million for the tech pages on the 6bbl ! :thumleft:

Yep.... I had a similar question when I screwed together my lump last season. One passage is blocked. My guess is so the coolant can absorb some heat while circulating. My car never ran hot. It ate a camshaft, but it did it running cool.... :| Anyone else have a better guess????

If you want to lose 50lbs. you should look for fifty places to lose 1lb. Don't go thinking " if I cut the roof off....". The hole saw is a good start. Although those little steel disc's might only weigh 4oz. if you pop out 4, it's a pound. And so it goes.... Good luck with the diet (for the...

A few years ago I had the drivers side window, and every other car on the blocks, windows broken by kids riding down the street on bicycles popping car windows with an automatic centerpunch. I wish I could have returned the favor by popping out an eye.... :twisted: