318 build. what would you do?

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Mopar318Guy said:
im not sure wether im goin the stroker route or not. mioght just buy a supercharger and leave everything stock. when i blow it up ill buy another 318 for 50 bucks and go from there. lol
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340'srule has a nice stroker. You can ask him for build tips. He's a good fella.

Supercharging it is a great idea. Or turbo....your choice. Good attitude IMO. Run it till it's dead and get another. Been there done that alot. It's fun till ya drop. Or it drops. You just keep at it.

That Stangs bay looks good. No harm or shame in doing a copy. Actually, makes good sense. All the homework done for you. KYdart said budget. That can be a buster.


Thanks Prine. Love the shots. LOL, Stuff that on a SB MoPar!
 
Backtobasics said:
The guy wants to maximize the 318. Let's help him do just that.​


The point of the post is to get suggestions on how to build the 318 for what he wants to do. While a bigger engine might accomplish his goal EASIER, it is not the direction he wants to go. Once he has made it clear that swapping to a 340-360-408-416- is not what he wants, how about we go ahead and provide input on his topic, and move on.

P.S. I like Prine's recipe. Solid foundation, maximize airflow, minimize friction and drag, and maximize the output of the stock 318 cubes.
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yea. true. im still lookin for ideas. as to what heads to use. best intakes to go with. cam valves pistons stuff like that. i DO want to make a 318 kinto a 384 stroker. ONE DAY. but as of right now i think a high revving 318 is the best way to go. i heard u can get to 6 or 7 grand no problem.
 
Backtobasics said:
The guy wants to maximize the 318. Let's help him do just that.​


The point of the post is to get suggestions on how to build the 318 for what he wants to do. While a bigger engine might accomplish his goal EASIER, it is not the direction he wants to go. Once he has made it clear that swapping to a 340-360-408-416- is not what he wants, how about we go ahead and provide input on his topic, and move on.

P.S. I like Prine's recipe. Solid foundation, maximize airflow, minimize friction and drag, and maximize the output of the stock 318 cubes.
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build a 318 up... use higher compression pistons... a cam good to about 6500 rpm, along with valve springs, hand work the heads, port,polish, gasket match them, a 3500 rpm torque converter, 4:56 gears and et-streets, and hope everything stays together..
 
My first post, sorry so long...

In 1985 I built a 318 for my 68 Barracuda. Mainly because it was "what I had". It was actually a 318 out of a truck. I was lucky to have a local racer who ran a machine shop and built Mopar motors as often as he could. Mopars was the odd duck back then and I liked having something different. I spent about $1500 on the engine (in 1985 dollars). It had .060 over forged flat tops with valve reliefs, stock 318-3 truck crank and resized rods. Full groove mains and HV oil pump. Up top I used some 340-J heads that had been sized to 2.04 intakes 1.6 exhaust, a small bowl port/gasket match, a "purple shaft" grind cam that was .484 i .474 e if I remember with a 108deg centerline, Rhoads lifters, a stock 318 4bbl manifold and a carter AVS. Ignition was stock electronic conversion and had a carter HV mechanical fuel pump. It was bored with a torque plate and race balanced. I ran it with a 727, 340 converter, and .410 gears on 14" BF goodrich tires.

It's best strip time was 14.09 at 90something (it was always out of fuel and popping through the traps) but it was good enough to take down some of the heavy chevies of the day (I got beat by many as well). It was not a torque monster. In fact, the big chamber heads and large cam actually killed anything below 3000rpm, but it was a heavy puller from 3200-6850. It probably had decent horsepower, but it required a lot of tuning of the AVS to get it to run well. A bigger converter would have helped too but it was not in the budget. It was however very reliable and made a good bracket car. I beat it hard too. One night the track was slow and I put 17 passes on it with no trouble. I ran this motor for 4 years street/strip also with no issues. If I had had a few more $$ to spend I probably could have gotten into the mid 13's with my 318.


(I know you are not going to a different engine size, so this is my opinion now...)
That said, my friend built a 340 at the time with similar parts and money, but with stock cast pistons and .391 gears and he routinely beat me by half a second, spinning like a mutha! My 318 wasn't quite as fun to drive as my friends with the bigger cubes. If I had it to do over, I would only consider the 318 viable as a driver. If I planned on track time I believe I could get more bang for my buck with the 360.

I actually still have the short block as it sat when pulled it 13 years ago. It ran fine, but the bores were getting loose and at .060 it was time for a new block. While I was deciding what to do with it, I ran accross a decent 360 to go back into the car so I decided to build it up instead. The car now has a fresh plum crazy exterior and roll cage so I hope to again run it at my local track next year. I guess I should sell the 318 parts to a good home. 8)
 
kydart said:
build a 318 up... use higher compression pistons... a cam good to about 6500 rpm, along with valve springs, hand work the heads, port,polish, gasket match them, a 3500 rpm torque converter, 4:56 gears and et-streets, and hope everything stays together..
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seems like your the only one gettin the idea. when it was together it had 10.2 to 1 compression. i tore it down. when i find a new rear end im gonna get some serious gearing. i was thinkin in the 5s. they sellm. lol. itll launch hard but top out quick. thats basically all i want. i dont want a 150mph car. im not gonna take it over 120 anyways. much. if i do get the gears im lookin for im gonna try to find a wide ratio 4 speed for it. maybe a 5 speed. idk. i want to get to 60 in the 4 second range.
 
Now, he spent $1500 in the 80's, with some expemsive parts, fordged, very expensive for the Mopars back in the 80's he he he.

You should be able to get away with a short block done for about $1500.

How much do you have to spend on this again. (Sorry to ask)

But I remember this being budget limited. It's not easy making power cheaply. Try milling 360 heads down and bolting on a intake with a big cam. Sound simple? It is to a degree.

Cal tracs, a high stall converter, wide (Semi ? ) slicks and 4.56's will get a stock teen launching like a pro. Wait, didn't someone say that???????
 
rumblefish360 said:
Now, he spent $1500 in the 80's, with some expemsive parts, fordged, very expensive for the Mopars back in the 80's he he he.

You should be able to get away with a short block done for about $1500.

How much do you have to spend on this again. (Sorry to ask)

But I remember this being budget limited. It's not easy making power cheaply. Try milling 360 heads down and bolting on a intake with a big cam. Sound simple? It is to a degree.

Cal tracs, a high stall converter, wide (Semi ? ) slicks and 4.56's will get a stock teen launching like a pro. Wait, didn't someone say that???????
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yea. 1500. cuz i have 0 right now. i have 4000 to restore the body of my dart sport but dad wont let me use any cash for the motor. i only need 1500$ work of body stuff. i heard 360 heads and an intake big cam were the way to go. but i have pretty much unlimited options. all comes down to $$. in all honesty idc what id have to spend on it. a new rear and gears plus 4 speed manual is gonna be 1200 or so. plus w/e is goin on the motor. ive decided on not gettin the crank for it. so itll be stock 318 cubes. find me some 360 heads and a high rise!! lol
 
340srule said:
Thats a pretty slow car...lol...
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Nothing like offering constructive, encouraging advice there Pal. Instead of offering degrading put-downs, how about offering advice on what works? You OBVIOUSLY know what to do correctly. What parts...Prices...maybe even, heaven forbid...PICTURES.

Go ahead... keep posting remarks like that here and you'll be holding hands with MOPAR1962... where ever he wound up. If your here to be the spoiler for guys who WANT to be truly involved, we can accommodate you. Which from what I understand, definitely won't be MoParts.... since you both added your magic touch there also. Past tense... if you catch my drift. :roll:
 
Thats the problem here John....

People tried giving this kid "advice on what works",and he is all over the place.
He was the one with the smart azz comments.
Go back and read the thread completely,and then maybe you will have
a different outlook.
 
FASTBACK340 said:
Nothing like offering constructive, encouraging advice there Pal. Instead of offering degrading put-downs, how about offering advice on what works? You OBVIOUSLY know what to do correctly. What parts...Prices...maybe even, heaven forbid...PICTURES.

Go ahead... keep posting remarks like that here and you'll be holding hands with MOPAR1962... where ever he wound up. If your here to be the spoiler for guys who WANT to be truly involved, we can accommodate you. Which from what I understand, definitely won't be MoParts.... since you both added your magic touch there also. Past tense... if you catch my drift. :roll:
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Hello it was a joke..i don't think theres anything in the world that pulls 4 second 60's,you can ride your bike faster then that..:-D As for moparts that site has more former members then current ones..hmmmm i wonder why??...
 
He meant to say under 5 seconds 0 to 60mph, like a healthy V8 car SHOULD do....not 4 second 60 ft.....8-[
 
For my 318 I used Dual exhaust off the stock manifolds,
#302 heads,
Edelbrock LD4B intake, {Small ports made for the 273/ 318}
Edelbrock # 1406 Carb,
Mopar Performance Cam/Lifter set P4452759

Part Number: DCC-4452759
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,200-5,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221 int./228 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 268
Advertised Duration: 260 int./268 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.430 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.450 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.430 int./0.450 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud8mci4rjFU
 
Your 82 probably has 8.5:1 compression pistons. First I would loose those. Find some cheap 9.5:1 pstons and replace them.
Look for a decent pair of early 70's 360 2 barrel truck heads mill them .030.
You get about 10:1 comp.
Find a LD4B intake and a 4160 Holly
Headers of course...but be sure they are equal length tubes....some say there is no difference but there sure is at least 10HP.
Look for good used parts where you can like at moparts.com
add a cam.

Piston kit- 385
used heads- 150 (I know, I just bougt a pair.)
LD4B- 100
4160- 148
Headers- 220
Isk cam 125
machine work- 185
rebuild kit 188 (I just paid $148 for the valve job plus $40 for milling)
___________________
TOTAL $ 1500

I know this because that is one that I'm doing right now. I'm also building a 360 stroker. I found fenderwall Hookers used for $220 including shipping...used but the nessesary dents were already in them.
The carb I got off e-bay, it's never been used. The casting # for the heads you want is: 3418915
Try to find a copy of 'MOPAR ENGINE' Carroll Shelby's "Speed Secrets"
I use it like my Bible for MOPARs. A lot of tricks that take a little time but not much $$$ and they all add up to more HP.
Hope this helps.
SD:glasses2:


ALL ABOUT OLD SCHOOL
 
The Demon has a 68 318 completely rebuilt using stock bore moly rings.
Modifications from stock:
forged crank, damper, & pulley from 64 318 (used)
Edelbrock 2176 intake
Carter AFB 625 cfm, manual choke
14" K&N air filter.
'302 heads (used), hand lapped valves, new seals, some light grinding to clear up air flow
Crane cam and lifters: Advertised Duration 276/ 286, Lift .441/ .441
Cloyes double roller timing chain
90º oil filter adapter (used)
Mopar windage tray (used)

I also have a pair of used Dakota 318 exhaust manifolds. Haven't decided to use both or just passenger side. All of the parts are new purchases except as noted. The large used parts came from salvage yards, the windage tray from a swap meet.

I figure I have about $1500 in this engine, less any value for my time assigned to it. It's a good driver, but I doubt it will turn the numbers you are looking for regardless of the rear gear. That's my 2¢ worth.
 
I'm glad I found this thread. I'm not sure how I missed it though. I'm going this same route but with a 360 to start with. I'm looking to get the most H.P. for my buck as well.
 
65barracudadude said:
I'm glad I found this thread. I'm not sure how I missed it though. I'm going this same route but with a 360 to start with. I'm looking to get the most H.P. for my buck as well.
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I respnded to that thread but firgured a note here coulnd't hurt.

If the bottom end is good, just bolt on the parts like this thread is doing, just up the cam about 6-8*'s for the larger displacement.
 
This things all over the place... whic after reading, I think fits the OP. First, let me preface this by saying to Moparguy congrats on getting an old car. I dont know your age other than what I can infer, and it seems like you're already fighting the norm by trying to get a car of this type together. That being said... Your peers with their Hondas simply buy and bolt on and the cars pick up. You can't do that with this old car. It's a package, and there isnt anything to control the running other than you. So, starting with an impatient customer, and a base model V8 dart, and $1500... You simply dont have enough cash to upgrade everything at once, and it sounds like you lack the knowledge to see how things interact. We can work around that. What I would advise... Start with the rear axle. You dont need new everything. You need a running drivable 8 3/4. They are not cheap. But dollar for dollar, they will get you performance. I'm estimating a cost around $700 for a complete one with a 3 series gear and sure grip, plus shipping. You have a decent transmission in the 904. For about $250 you can install a Mancini Racing branded convertor and B&M shift kit. No, not the best parts, but they will work for you. So we're at what... $950? Notice NOTHING on the engine yet... next addition, cheap headers and dual exhaust. Headers $250, exh another $250. so were at zero bucks. But, the car is more responsive, and the whole car is ready for any engine work. If you have another $500, I'd spend it this way: Comp Cams XE268 cam and lifters, Comp 901-16 springs, Summit brand timing set, and the gaskets to get it done. $310.54 according to the site just now. That leaves you money for a good set of wires, and maybe the MP advance springs for the distributor, oil, filters, silicone, etc. This whole build will give you a balanced package. Not one that runs 12s. But one that at 2800lbs will sure go in the 13s depending on your ability to tune and launch. Most important, it's doable and realistic. Because starting from post 1, I dont believe your ideas are realistic for your situation. The last thing you want to do is delve too far into a running engine when you have no cash and no prepared car to put it back in. The single best deal really is a running 360 and drop it in. I've done that for less than $1k back "in the day"...lol
 
I agree w/ Moper with the addition of some #302 heads with a bigger valve. You can do it cheap and that address' (to some degree anyway)the bane of the 318's existence- compression. Mill'em, skinny gasket,etc. Without doing pistons (which is what a 318 really needs ).Then that cam will work much better and all the other parts will be singing harmoniously and will be much happier! How does it go? Suck, SQUISH, Bang, Push? Remember , Patience is a Virtue.
 
I thought I could build a $1500 318 for my bracket car but that number has been passed and I still need to buy a cam & lifters and other misc parts.
moper has the right idea, doing it the way he set out will give you more satisfaction for sure and when you are ready for more engine your drivetrain will be up to it.
 
The original post on this was just over 1 year ago... Mopar318Guy - Any progress on your project?
 
:cry:
blufie said:
The original post on this was just over 1 year ago... Mopar318Guy - Any progress on your project?
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Well there you have it! This may prove that kids really aren't listening to what ya try and tell'em! And that I really am guilty of not paying attention. But anyway....gears, yeah, gears that's the ticket!
 
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