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I had no option other than to trailer my car to the upholstery shop and spend $700. I decided that I could waste a lot of headliners and still save myself money. I won't argue that an experienced upholstery guy can do the job faster and even better, but I got great satisfaction from doing the...

You can do it yourself and save money. I never did a headliner before I did my Duster's. Have faith in your skills and take your time. If you have it clipped, all you have to do is work on getting rid of the wrinkles and contact cementing the pinch welds. You're almost there.

Rick's article is excellent. I used it when I installed my headliner. Take your time and it will go well. I did the driver's side one day and came back and finished the passenger side the next day. Don't rush! I used contact cement along the pinch weld area. I also used a steamer to help reduce...

I use Dante's for all my interior pieces. He's a great guy.

Ok. The plastic studs are part of the emblem. I just need to find the metal clips.

My door emblems were removed by the body shop and I didn't have a chance to see how the factory attached these. Anybody have a picture or a source? Thanks

I used a similar technique to repair some interior parts. I crumpled up some Reynolds Wrap and added some simulated graining before the epoxy hardened. Herb's interior paint was very easy to work with and they sell a variety of colors.

YW. Glad I could be of assistance.

Here's a picture of my car. Hope this helps you out.

I have pictures of the underside of my column that I took during disassembly. They are on my computer at work. I will try to post whatever I can find tomorrow.

The dash was originally painted with a suede finish to reduce glare or reflection. I would not use a glossy paint as it would be distracting. Mike Mancini at Instrument Specialties sells the original paint but it is expensive and only available in pints. I found that I couldn't get an even...

Here's picture of my 1970 Duster 340 Rallye dash. Should be the same.

If you have a junk yard around your area, you could probably track down cardboard or plastic. Cardboard would be authentic in earlier A bodies, but the plastic liners are much nicer. I'm pretty anal about restoring my 1970 Duster to factory specs..........but I put a plastic liner in the dash.

I don't have a picture with that piece attached but I do have a picture of where it goes. Maybe this can help you out.

Thanks pacuda.

I'll keep looking for a front view of my dash frame, but I did find this picture of the back side. My frame is from a 1970 Duster 340.

When I redid my seats, I didn't feel like threading all those wires through the burlap. I hog ringed heavy duty canvas that I purchased at Joann Fabric on top of the burlap for reinforcement.

I used the headrests from the standard spit bench seat of my 1970 Duster on a split bench with armrest without problem.

My 1970 Duster has metal sail panels.

I have good success repairing plastic kick panels and other plastic parts with PVC pipe cleaning solvent and glue on the back side. If the front crack is deep and visible on a grained piece, I've used a film of JB Weld and then "textured" the area with a crumpled piece of aluminum foil. The...

You should be proud of the work that you did.

I top coated the next day. I couldn't find any directions on either product.

Hinge covers and the headrest look great! I used Herb's paint on my black headrest and interior plastic. I've been very happy with the finished pieces. I topcoated my parts with SEM semi-gloss clear for additional protection.

I would be concerned that the rubber floor mat would slide easily on top of the rubber flooring. You might need to anchor it with some Velcro.

Here's a pic of my 1970 Duster taken during disassembly. Hope this helps you.

Usually a suede finish but you might need to check your paint code. Mike Mancini sells the original paint and others have reported using Rustoleum or other trim paints with good results. I had my dash frame powder coated Tiger Black Matte Fine Texture and it is spot on.