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nitrous backfire:

all good points. i guess it boils done to preference, some are content with using the conversion mounts/DC mods, other want that "factory" look. at least there are alot of options out there.

sometimes any year block is drilled and tapped and sometimes not. never-the-less its still a easy mod to do. the spoolmount trick can be done, but quadrupple check all the measurments. Shuemacher kits are very nice also, but again you still have to mod the frame mount. with the factory BB...

good luck on running power brakes with a 440. i heard of some VAN PB boosters kinda working (some are alot smaller diameter). the easiest way would be to use the Shuemacher Conversion mounts. but the best way would be to find a 68/69 big block k-member.. which i have.

there just the normal rv/truck center dump exhaust manifolds, same as anyother BB cylinder head.

blocks are the same as any pass car block. compression with either head (open chamber) will be around 7.8:1. yah you can use the pass car waterpump. extra bolt holes in heads are for different accesories.

uh huh. sorry for adding additional info to this thread. i'll keep that in mind next time.

dunno why you bother..mabey becouse we both like info, and lots of it. anyways, those are all factory specs. actual production specs where much different my friend. eg: a factory spec'd 906 head chamber calls for 81.5cc. actual production specs where in the nieghborhood of 90+cc's. do the...

without blueprinting the block..its closer to 9-9.2:1cr on the older 440's. best money you'll ever spend is to blueprint any Mopar engine. Not to mention the older 440's (sans the 915 headed ones) have terrible quench charactoristics.

theres no point in that. the forged crank is only marginally stonger (but ALOT heavier), and the 915/906 heads showed only minimal improvements in flow. with that said, treat ANY used engine as a core..and pay accordingly. I offer him $300 and have a nice day.

read this (still applies to smallblocks though): http://www.geocities.com/hp2zone/timingset.html

yah..33 passes a day, everyday for a year seemed kinda excessive :toothy10:

well if your gonna cut the mains, you may as well offset grind the rod journals for a 3.90" stroke (2.20" rod journals), use eagle/440source craprolets rods (there the correct BB MoPar width), KB/440source pistons, and end up with a 470cid with a 400.

wow! thats like 12000 1/4 mile passes in one year! :mrgreen: check em at least once a year. change them when they get fouled or if the gap opened say more then .010". there cheap enough.

yup, good quench, aluminum heads, detonation shouldn't be a problem.

yah your right. i just did the math again, and with the dished pistons it came to 11.787:1 on the 651cid engine. Those where with .040" gaskets. 10:1 will be kinda hard to achieve. but can be done i suspose. :thumbup:

:shock: :thumbup: with the ROL .040" gasket it was a hair over 11:1cr. you can prolly get thicker ROL's and lower it about another .5-.75 cr.

nah...this piston will do it.

i assume with a 655" engine its a large bore spacing engine. i wouldn't even think of using the Indy Heads. go to either a B1 or Predator Head. getting 10:1 or so is just a matter of piston & head gasket choise.

5/16 fuel line generally is good for up to 300 hp, 3/8 fuel line is good up to 500 hp., ½ fuel line is good up to 700 hp., and 5/8 fuel line will handle 800+ hp. i got a 25' roll of 1/2" for $40. from piston ring. If you are running a returnless system, take 25% of your horsepower number and...

~ cast crank is good to about 600hp and lighter the the forged one. ~ stock block is good for about 650-700hp. over that is no mans land. ~ no need to post crank #'s cause its a cast crank. i seriously doubt he's lookin for that kinda horsepower.

3698830 would be for a 1973-78 440 pass car 3769902 would be the 400/440 1974 only cylinder head. your 3830930 440-6 block is late casting 1974 block. not sure what the deal is cause it wasn't available in 1975 and up. compression is about 7.8:1 so don't count on putting in a decent cam or...

i just assume every stock engine as a core (ie: needs everything), and i price it accordingly. a 360 like your looking at...$150 top. if he says no, move on. theres lots out there.

the problem with 413's are piston choise (unless you go with custom ie: expensive slugs). however you can expand your options by boring it .060" and using 426W pistons. personally i wouldn't toss a 413 in favor of a 440. the only exception would be the pre 62 cranks..they won't work with a 727...