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Not a gen 3 but at least you can see it.

2 years for sure. Cheap insurance, in addition, you can feel a difference with fresh fluid after 2 years.

I’ve been using 14” brakes for years now. In my 35 yrs of Dart ownership, at least a dozen open track events and 2 Optima events, I can say the larger brakes offer a good margin over the 13” setup I had for years prior. The additional pistons, from 2 to 4 and the additional mechanical advantage...

Why would anyone use GMs most problematic caliper?

Bergmanautocraft.com

I have a set of 1.14s in stock. I am due a shipment of both in the next few weeks along with a stock type big block bar. All USA made. This is coming with huge site improvements and many more products. Stay tuned and PM me any time.

Yes. And 100% from out Asian friends.

Not on my site, PM me your email.

I have 14" kits too.

Can be done 2 ways. Use rubber hose then flare a 3/16" brake line. The brake line with come with a nut. If you have braided AN brake hose you will need an adapter from #4 to 3/16. Summit/Jegs

We did this for a Sport Fury project. Rear discs were from an SRT Challenger/Charger, 13". 14.25 in the front with Brembos from a Viper.

We're doing a custom suspension air ride on a 65 Sport Fury. Mini tubbed too. 19x12s on the rear.

13" SRT rotors, brembo calipers and drum in hat e brake assembly with custom bracket for 8.75 axle.

Not used in racing. "Because of the dissolved air, silicone fluids are up to three times more compressible than glycol based fluids. This can contribute to a slightly spongy feeling brake pedal, particularly near the higher end of their temperature range but well below the dry boiling point...

Let us know if that booster/master works out.

Toyota Cressida was rear wheel drive with a non turbo straight six. Totally different animal than a Camry.

The ford caliper can be used with 2 sized rotors depending on the wheel used. For 15s a modified Toyota rotor is used (10" diameter). For 17s an 11.75" rotor is used - straight from a 90s Cobra. The pads are available anywhere.

Its funny how we'll pay anything to go fast, but to stop we want cheap. This is hilarious to me. Anyway, The dr diff/ford based setup is the best thing going without stepping into fixed caliper territory. I wouldn't touch any of the kits that use that crappy Cadillac caliper that sucked when...

Suck the fluid from the master first and fill with fresh fluid first. Pump and bleed starting at the right rear first. Gravity method with take forever..

11.75 rotor, large bolt drum spindles and 4 piston viper calipers. Not the cheapest but works very well. Funny how everyone wants expensive motors and cheap brakes - I don't get it....

If DOT 5 is so great how come none of the high performance fluids on the market are DOT5? I was always curious. Does DOT 5 have a lower boiling point?

The first issue would be bolt pattern. Normally, all the modern brake conversions are hat style rotors. Old rotors have their brake surfaces removed to create the hub, then a hat rotor slides over. The LX car rotors have a center bore that is larger than the old hub. A centering ring needs to be...

Are you sure they aren't cobra rotors, they are usually a bolt on. C4 rotors are thicker and usually use a slightly different version of the same caliper.

I did just that, removed the internals from the prop valve, used front pin type calipers and 1 1/32 mopar master, bled as instructed (bleed valve isn't at the top of the caliper) and felt the brakes were pretty crappy...I think the piston in the rear is just too large and the mopar master can't...

Either you have very strong legs or you've never driven a modern car. Every time I get a car in the shop with manual brakes, I say to myself this sucks. I hate manual brakes and manual steering for a street car. Just my opinion as many will argue the point.

I don't know about you guys but a brake kit with "scare" in its name is a little scary...

I sell and install these on a regular basis and swear by them.

Have tried brake pressure gauges at the caliper?