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Agree with above. Sometimes on an old engine they Really Leak a bunch more with the Synthetic Oil.

If it was mine: I would be asking around $5,000. Rolling depending on the rear end and rear suspension.

Is not the 64 valiant a 106 Wheelbase rather than the 108 of the later cars? I thought I remembered that = If so, the driveshaft would be too long.

You would probably have to shorten it a bit and perhaps adapter U Joints depending on rear end and if you change to 727.

I am not convinced that the engine is original. If it was = It is a bargain!

They make different degree wedges that go between the springs and rear end. i would put a one and a two degree together. Any spring shop or Summit or Jegs should carry them

You want your rear yolk to be DOWN about two degree from your driveshaft on your 4 speed car NOT up! When you drop the clutch the rear end will lift and the yoke will point more upward than static.

You understand the angles are measured from the orientation of the drive shaft NOT the angles from the ground (That is irrelevant).

Mopar offsets them for steering clearance. They have since the 50s as I recall.

They do not want any excess weight reduction in Stock/SS they DQed my car in 77 at Winternationals and it took all night to fab and weld enough of the fenderwell back in from a wrecked 64 from the wrecking yard in Pomona. After that you would have to remove engine to get header out.

None of the fenderwell headers I have ever bought can with templates. I wish they did. Maybe they may now as this was years ago. Start small a work you way up =It is hard to put the fenderwell back in. NHRA only allows 1 inch around the header for installation.

I had thought that somewhere in the mid 70s Mopar put a scraper piece that scraped the 10,000 digit when it turned over to next one or two