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Fantastic winter project! What cam/specs are you running? When you dyno it, do you plan on making any pulley changes to play with the drive #s? Looking forward to seeing what it puts out.

Good Lord. I remember this thread. Sometimes it's nice to see old threads come back around.

Knuckle, I feel your pain (temp-wise). A coupe of days ago, I was forced to be outside under the hood when it was 108 and lasted almost an hour before calling it quits. I hope you find the right person to help you or if you try and tackle it again, stay hydrated and get a canopy over you &...

You're welcome. Glad one of my suggestions works for you. GL.

The cheapest way to fix this (before you sell it) is to change your driving habits. Otherwise, limit its movement and chain it down. Those are the two cheapest methods. GL.

If these work better than the Poly-Locs, I'd rather pay $134 vs $199. Btw: If you try the solid on the left side and a rubber biscuit on the right, let us know how it feels.

Interesting site. No Mopar engines posted but he's coming out with his own alum SB head? Interesting. Initially, I was thinking he might be taking someone's bare casting and doing his own finishing work on them (ala: Indybrock heads). Noticed there was even an AMC motor listed with all the...

No option to consider a Cloyes Tru-Roller?

Digging it! Was building something similar 7-8 years ago but decided I wasn't going to be running the car at the track as in the past. Sold my raised port W9s to Brian @ IMM and traded my 48 degree R3 for a 59 degree block and built a "slightly" tamer street/strip motor. Btw: What are the...

As already stated several times, plan on starting with a R block (or the equivalent) especially if you plan on pushing 625-650+.

I would be very leary of an ad like this. I just see too many red flags.

Agreed. Do some minor grinding or roughing up of the surface, clean it off thoroughly and epoxy it back to its original shape/contour. Good luck.

Whoops ... double post.

Don't quote me but seem to remember other threads re: this using a 1/2" mill and a drop air cleaner base. Also believe the TTI step headers were used with a little massaging. I would recommend contacting both TTI & Indy for their suggestions. GL.

I have been running MIL gear drives for years and all the above is true. The only downside to running one that some racers cite is that when they are trying to get everything they can from their motors, the gear drive robs a small % of power vs something like a good Cloyes Tru-Roller setup...

I wouldn't speculate on anything until you know for sure what the 360 rebuild consists of. Because of your location, my gut feeling tells me it may be close to a stock 360 rebuild but you never know.

Not familiar with the oval cam but ran the 284/484 25+ years ago and loved it. Great semi-mild street cam. I just don't know if you will see a heap of difference vs the cam you have now. Still love it though.

Btw: I'm going to guess that the rear ended (unless changed by the PO) is a 7 1/4 rear with 2.73/2.93 gears.

This is a tough one to answer since we don't know all the specs and because the performance of the motor will be subjective. There are several possible upgrades but of course, they sometimes affect mileage (if an issue), drivability and always ... the pocketbook. As mentioned, it might benefit...

Agreed. Just have it tested.

The port work is the next step here but as usual, one modification usually needs to be done in tandem with others to fully take advantage. I would think port work (and gasket matching the intake/heads), carb upgrade, cam change & convertor would do it. Just think, you can use the old carb...

As already said, have it replaced and might as well have your machinist doubecheck all of them.

How much are they?

Yes, you can use them and many did when stroker cranks were first introduced but because the cost of refurbishing an OEM set of rods was just shy of new aftermarket rods, the OEMs were getting tossed in favor of the new ones. As 70 mentioned, you will need to clearance the bottom of the bores...

I agree. Treat it as a core. I was going to say max $300 but since it's a soon-to-be family member, I'd expect a substantial discount. I'd let him make the first call on price and then hit him with the, "Come on Cuz ... we're soon-to-be relatives" line and then throw the smile and the coy...

It will work (for now) but just try not to do any brake stands with the 360. ;)

Either there was a 340 in there at one time or someone was going to dress the 318 up. The exh mans are from a 72-73 340. There not the desirable 68-70 mans but still worth something to someone. They could be used on the 318 too. You will need to change one motor mount in order to put a...

Luke, looks like you're on the right path. Btw: Good for you building this for the wife. Very nice of you and very smart. It's always easier on us if the significant other is into the hobby too. There are still lots of 318/904 combos out there. Just be patient and find the right one. It...

Depends on the condition. I suggest you figure out a couple of different scenarios re: work they may need so you can get an idea what it's going to cost you.

Bellhousing is good. 750DP is good for the 408. Performer intake iffy but ok for now. As far as the heads go, you go after what your budget allows unless you want to hold off and save up for something "better". If you are patient (while you are working on other sub assemblies) a pair of...