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Scroll down about half way on this page, and you can see where I cut the headers to make more room for the front tires. Further in the thread there may be pictures of the headers from the top so you can see the clearance from the tube to the MC. 69 Dart 440 Convertible

I'll try to talk you into fenderwells...... "Fenderwell Headers Are Cool!" How's that?? :D

Yes. You have to cut that gusset under the car. Either remove it entirely, or cut a circle shape into it. Just remember that the circle has to be bigger than the header collector to allow for engine movement. George

Rani- Install the radiator and the shroud in the car, without the fan in place. Hold the fan in the shroud opening, so that 1/2 the blade thickness is inside the shroud. With your 3rd arm ( :D ) measure the distance from the fan to the pulley. This is the size of the spacer you'll need. I have...

They're available from the repro vendors. Check eBay. George

I butchered my Hooker fenderwells so that I can turn the wheels. Now, it only has a slight rub at full lock on both sides. I repositioned 6 of the 8 tubes. When I bought the car, I couldn't even pull it into my driveway without severe contact. Lotta work but worth it. George

CLR & a brush. When you're done rinse it off with the hose. Dry it with compressed air & rags, then coat the block with WD40. BEFORE you put the pistons in a recently bored or honed block, use automatic trans fluid on paper towels. Keep doing it until the black stuff stops coming off. I don't...

I have a set in my 69 Dart with 440. I had to cut them apart and reposition a bunch of tubes so I could turn my front tires or they would rub the header tubes. I can now turn the steering wheel lock to lock without any contact. Even after all that work, I would do it again in a minute...

Jim- That home made assembly is exactly what I was looking to do, but I don't have the tools to make that piece. That looks awesome! REAL old school. George

Thanks for all the tips. I am trying to keep the car old school looking, so I didn't wanna use any modern braided lines, although those look killer! LOL I used a borrowed tubing bender and modified the chrome dual inlet line, then hooked it all together through the cool can. Looks late...

Thought about that, but I have a cool can mounted on the rad support, so I would have to run the line from the rad support almost all the way to the firewall, then make a 180º turn to go into the dual line. I dunno, sounds kinda hokey. LOL Thanks for the suggestion, though. Anyone else run...

What are all you guys doing to run a dual feed fuel line to a Holley double Pumper? If I use that chrome dual inlet fuel line, it runs right into my distributor. I don't wanna run a 1" spacer under the carb. How else can I make ONE fuel line split into TWO so I can hook it to my dual inlet...

LOL Thats beautiful, John! Simple, it fits the application, is cheap and readily available. Next time I need a master, I'm going for the 70 Charger MC! Thanks for the link, man. My MC lines aren't NEARLY as close as some of the pictures posted here, but having the lines exit the MC on the...

If you buy Hooker Super Comp full fenderwell headers for a RB in an A Body, extensive modifications will be needed to eliminate interference with the front tires while turning. I had to reshape/relocate 6 of the 8 pipes on mine. After the mods were done, full lock to lock steering is possible...

Thanks Moper geo

Thanks fellas. Anyone have a pump pushrod thay don't need? Geo

Are mechanical fuel pumps the same for big block (440) and small block (340)? Thanks, George

I have Hooker fenderwells in my 69 440 dart, and based on your pix, I can tell they're going to hit. George

I wrapped my header tube with that heat shield stuff. Master is cool to the touch. George

Always set dwell first.

Timing too far advanced. Same thing happens to my 440 if I pull it too far advance. You can probably dial it out by adjusting the vacuum advance can. Quick test is to unplug the vacuum advance and try it like that. If the misfire is gone, you found the problem. George

I won't use anything other than Autolites in ANY car or truck I own. I've been using them exclusively since 1983, and never had an issue, even with some very high performance engines, street or strip, GM or Mopar. Good Luck! George

John- The pulley was on the car when I bought it so I have no idea where it came from. I'll check later tonight for the part number and maybe one of you guys can ID it for me. Well, I think I have enough room for the flex fan, and I'll definately get a plastic shroud for it too. Whatever fits...

Thanks for the pix Bre. Engine compartment looks good. I'll check into a flex fan & shroud and see if there'll be room. George

Kocuda- Thats a sweet set up, but well out of my price range. It does look like the perfect ticket though. I'll keep it in mind if I can't find anything else, but I would have to save for something like that. Nice clean install too. Thanks for taking the time to help! Scoot- Yes...

Thats one hell of a generous offer Mike, but Moper said my lower pulley is too small to run a mechanical fan with good results.....even IF it did fit. I love the sound those flex fans make though! LOL I got some feelers out on my Corvette board. Hopefully some of my buds can locate something...

HHR fan assenbly looks great as far as outside dimensions, but it's 4-1/2" thick. I don't have the room. I dunno WTF I'm gonna do here....... Geo

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Thanks guys. I have a thermal switch to turn them on/off, and it has a dial to set the on temp. I don't know what you mean when you say upgrade the wiring though. I can run the fans through a relay no problem. Having said all that, what electric fan set ups would you recommend? I looked on...

Mike- Thanks for measuring your set up. I only have about 2" maybe 2-1/4" tops. The plates between the WP housing and the block are spacers. The WP housing was on an engine with a motor plate at one time, and they milled the housing to make room for the plate. The spacers are there to bring...