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Thanks to all that bought these. I have a few left, at $99, could be great personal stocking stuffer.

please notice in the re-design / updated version there are just little slits for the factory clips to slip into in lieu of the window(s) on the original design.

remove the four plastic pins, the inner bulkhead connection can be pulled back into the interior to release the bulkhead plugs. I did a re-design from the original to allow easier access to the release clips on the bulkhead plugs. Everyone that ordered the original received the updated version...

installed from engine side......fits like a glove! (O.J. Simpson)

good question....I will check the firewall on my mule early A front end. I know it will fit the B-bodies and have my brother checking his Challenger / E body.

a couple more pictures

fixed it with a quick rotation.

I just noticed in the picture of the assembly, for the picture, I slid the rear half on upside down. To keep your engine side plug-ins in the same location, the pin on the bulkhead needs to be located on the passenger side. I'll give the rear portion a quick 180 when I get to the shop.

hopefully, with the factory harness, it is a 15 minute job...unless you add an additional 10 minutes to admire your work. I'm using 3 of them. got 8 left. I'll post in the for sale section, just wanted run it up the flagpole so to speak.

The firewall section clips in the firewall exactly like the original bulkhead using a bulkhead gasket. then once connections are made and clipped together, a layer of 1-1/2 " wide foam sticky seal tape around the perimeter seals the deal.

I got tired of the bulkhead connections in the way and hard to plug / unplug, so I made a few of these up. They recess the wires approx 1-3/4" . 2 piece design makes those three bulkhead connections easily accessible thru the interior. 4 small removable plastic pins secure the 2 pieces together...

thanks...gives me a target

great info. I was fighting to get 35 degrees total for my Hemi and still have it start. Been stuck @33 total. Ordered the spring kit which now has a Summit part number #SUM 850535. The Mallory kit has been discontinued. weather warming up...can't wait to add the extra / needed 2 degrees of...

Your under dash wiring is pretty much plug and play. so easy even a caveman could do it. Buy a reproduction harness for your make / model and do it to it.

on the photo...as stated, I am 30 miles away from the car...be back there after the Holiday. it looks like a little different than that particular one, but perhaps that is what it is. The seat belt circuit in the interior is long gone I took it apart for a look-see inside while waiting to...

I pulled apart the most recent failed relay and it looks brand new inside....no broken or scored anything...nada while at Ross's, HemiMark pointed to what looks like a flasher /relay mounted on the inner fender near the firewall and asked...what's that for?....I could not remember, but got to...

Not sure if connected or related but when the relay first fails, I short across it with a screwdriver and after a few bumps....sometimes can get it to start thru the ignition switch...but after once or twice at the most, no more go. Swap out relay....perfect again.????

I do not remember where they came from....but I see Atech /Summit has the #SR 105 and I will get a couple when I go to their show this weekend

Good idea.....never thought it was worth the time or effort.....until now

since this Duster is actually a 1974 and came with electronic ignition, I use the factory harness updated with a RB / Hemi orange box kit and added the factory clutch switch and a non factory remote kill switch...... nothing special.

The Hemi is rubber mounted....vibration is minimal. The first relay the 12V main lug acted like it came loose inside....you could wiggle it. From there, no signs of anything. After the first failure, the first thing I do is replace it with another and chalk it up to a poorly made piece.....but...

Just re-reading and must have missed your advise. By push on terminals...you mean the yellow (transmission ) and green (clutch pedal) wires on the relay? I will give that a look see.....thanks

......because where I re-located it, it is tucked in and just barely fits. I do not have the room or are inclined to re-locate or re-wire. I will get keep an OEM on hand. It is only a 5 minute change out. The reason for the thread is I wanted to see if someone else was having a similar...

Thanks for the input guys....and offers. I keep a (Chinese) spare mounted in the original location....but the wires are not hooked to anything, they just dissappear into the harness keeping the factory look. The actual starter solinoid is hidden, relocated behind the frame /body connector by...

Looks like I will be digging thru the swap meet /NOS stuff

Can you still get one...made in USA?

All factory wiring...except battery in trunk. One of the early (not cheap) mini starters First regulator rattled.....second with the main 12v stud loose on the regulator...others, no rattle. I just chalked it up to ...Made in China / etc , but after this last one, I thought I would see if there...

I am on my fourth or fifth starter relay, about one a year. I replace it....works like a charm for a while, then nothing except a faint click. I have a switch that kills all power, basically disconnects it when not in use The juice comes right off the battery....replaced one battery already...

Rev A Nator returned my call this morning and after a brief conversation I was offered couple of options.....all were geared at having me satisfied with their product...and if I wasn't, to happily process a refund. Because it is an easy plug in swap.....I choose to try to swap / sort it out...

Thanks for all the responses and advise....I hope to hear from them today.