starter relay issue

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HemiDenny

HemiDenny

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I am on my fourth or fifth starter relay, about one a year. I replace it....works like a charm for a while, then nothing except a faint click.

I have a switch that kills all power, basically disconnects it when not in use The juice comes right off the battery....replaced one battery already only because early on thought it might not be getting enough voltage with the battery located in the trunk. Never had an issue with a trunk mounted battery in the past and doubted it...but wanted to take it out of the equation

I even relocated the relay outside the engine bay thinking all the aluminum was putting out too much heat.

any ideas and suggestions welcome.
 
I can't imagine.......Mini starter? The newer Dodge trucks, etc use a Bosch style relay. They all coming from the same Chineseoated parts store?

You running aftermarket harness? Maybe some sort of backfeed. With the key in "run" Check for voltage at the two "push on" terminals. There should be none.
 
67Dart273 said:
I can't imagine.......Mini starter? The newer Dodge trucks, etc use a Bosch style relay. They all coming from the same Chineseoated parts store?

You running aftermarket harness? Maybe some sort of backfeed. With the key in "run" Check for voltage at the two "push on" terminals. There should be none.
Click to expand...


That is strange. I think in all the cars I have had maybe one failure.
 
All factory wiring...except battery in trunk. One of the early (not cheap) mini starters

First regulator rattled.....second with the main 12v stud loose on the regulator...others, no rattle. I just chalked it up to ...Made in China / etc , but after this last one, I thought I would see if there was anyone else out there with a similar experience

Current voltage regulator robbed from the California Flash....works great so far.
 
china crap shows it evil ways , and just think some china-men has bought a house around the corner from you with his profits on junk supplied parts . good old usa built parts to the rescue again .
 
Looks like I will be digging thru the swap meet /NOS stuff
 
Try a junk yard, I've pulled starter relays, ECUs, all sorts of small things like that. They just aren't made like they used to be.

Jeff
 
Johnny Pace said:
I have had good luck with the little "hot start" kits...which are essentially an external ford type solenoid. I usually have these on the shelf, but not sure how "oe" you want to keep it looking.

Hot Start Starter Kit Tuff Stuff Performance 7629 - Pace Performance Parts

Tuff stuff is in cleveland, but never went label hunting on these. I can check if you like
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing but never had a failure as I recall. But if it's mechanical it can happen. I have ching, chang, chong junk on my mind with the problem as it is a simple relay..... If you want to do something temporary use a ford solenoid. You can fab it up to use the existing mounting holes.... I would say you need to do something different....

JW
 
Thanks for the input guys....and offers.

I keep a (Chinese) spare mounted in the original location....but the wires are not hooked to anything, they just dissappear into the harness keeping the factory look. The actual starter solinoid is hidden, relocated behind the frame /body connector by the drivers side foot well. The last two times I had failures, the Duster had not been run for weeks......so I have pretty much ruled out any heat issues.

I'm gonna chalk it up to faulty relays....and keep a couple of spares on hand. The California Flash will get it's relay back after the Summit show next weekend.
 
Denny why do you stick with the Mopar ones? Since you have it hidden, it's not as if you "must have" appearance correct, right?

I can find out what the newer Dodge pickups use, I bet it's just a Bosch. You could also use a solenoid similar to Ford. Ford wont work because of the neutral switch. What I'm saying is "similar." One of those should outlast you, or the car. You would want one configured like a continuous duty solenoid, IE the two small terminals both the coil.
 
67Dart273 said:
Denny why do you stick with the Mopar ones? Since you have it hidden, it's not as if you "must have" appearance correct, right?

I can find out what the newer Dodge pickups use, I bet it's just a Bosch. You could also use a solenoid similar to Ford. Ford wont work because of the neutral switch. What I'm saying is "similar." One of those should outlast you, or the car. You would want one configured like a continuous duty solenoid, IE the two small terminals both the coil.
Click to expand...

......because where I re-located it, it is tucked in and just barely fits. I do not have the room or are inclined to re-locate or re-wire. I will get keep an OEM on hand. It is only a 5 minute change out.

The reason for the thread is I wanted to see if someone else was having a similar experience (apparently not) or I was overlooking something.
 
67Dart273 said:
I can't imagine.......Mini starter? The newer Dodge trucks, etc use a Bosch style relay. They all coming from the same Chineseoated parts store?

You running aftermarket harness? Maybe some sort of backfeed. With the key in "run" Check for voltage at the two "push on" terminals. There should be none.
Click to expand...
Just re-reading and must have missed your advise.

By push on terminals...you mean the yellow (transmission ) and green (clutch pedal) wires on the relay?

I will give that a look see.....thanks
 
The starter relays can be carefully opened, inspected and bench tested. On a high vehicle the contacts can erode enough to become intermittent. I have also found small spiders make a home there, and place web between contacts.

I am the curious type, and have cleaned and adjusted contacts getting several more years of use.
 
HemiDenny said:
Just re-reading and must have missed your advise.

By push on terminals...you mean the yellow (transmission ) and green (clutch pedal) wires on the relay?

I will give that a look see.....thanks
Click to expand...

What I was getting at (depending on ignition system) if some wiring mistake could be keeping it backfeed energized. HOWEVER since you are using the clutch switch, it could only be drawing current during the times the clutch is disengaged. I doubt that would be a problem
 
KitCarlson said:
The starter relays can be carefully opened, inspected and bench tested. On a high vehicle the contacts can erode enough to become intermittent. I have also found small spiders make a home there, and place web between contacts.

I am the curious type, and have cleaned and adjusted contacts getting several more years of use.
Click to expand...

This brings up a point........HOW ARE they failing, Denny? Is the coil going open or the contacts failing. OR IS THE ENGINE just rattling them apart from vibration?

The last thing that comes to mind..........same starter? Maybe you have a "partially shorted" starter solenoid which is drawing way too much current. If this is a mini starter it would be easy to check current draw, but I don't know what the "average" is. You'd have to check several others to get a baseline

If you are using the old original type starter, this gets more difficult. If you are familiar, the old starter solenoids had TWO windings.........a very heavy "pull in winding" and a "hold" winding.

The "pull in" winding is in series with the starter internally, and it only engages during pull in. Once the solenoid contacts are closed, it is bypassed, leaving only the "hold" winding.
 
The Hemi is rubber mounted....vibration is minimal.

The first relay the 12V main lug acted like it came loose inside....you could wiggle it.
From there, no signs of anything. After the first failure, the first thing I do is replace it with another and chalk it up to a poorly made piece.....but after so many, I feel need to look deeper.

time to get the meter out
 
67Dart273 said:
What I was getting at (depending on ignition system) if some wiring mistake could be keeping it backfeed energized. HOWEVER since you are using the clutch switch, it could only be drawing current during the times the clutch is disengaged. I doubt that would be a problem
Click to expand...

since this Duster is actually a 1974 and came with electronic ignition, I use the factory harness updated with a RB / Hemi orange box kit and added the factory clutch switch and a non factory remote kill switch...... nothing special.
 
if you have one or more failed ones I'd sure tear into it and see what you can "see."
 
Hey Denny, what brand and number have you been using? I see Standard #SR105 looks like a good one. I bet Mopar has one available too. I have had issues with different aftermarket brands of voltage regulators. I got one directly from Mopar and cured my overcharging issues.
 
toolmanmike said:
Hey Denny, what brand and number have you been using? I see Standard #SR105 looks like a good one. I bet Mopar has one available too. I have had issues with different aftermarket brands of voltage regulators. I got one directly from Mopar and cured my overcharging issues.
Click to expand...

I do not remember where they came from....but I see Atech /Summit has the #SR 105 and I will get a couple when I go to their show this weekend
 
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